[81] JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, INCLUDING A SOJOURN OF THREE MONTHS IN THE SOUTHERN PROVINCES OF NEW ZEALAND

Nov. 16, 1868. Preston to Manchester. I left home this morning at 6 en route for Manchester, which city I reached, after various delays, at 8.30 p.m.

Nov. 17. Manchester to Liverpool. Left Manchester for Liverpool, where Mr. Cecil Wray showed me much kindness and hospitality. I preached in the evening at S. Martin's Church.

Nov. 18. Voyage to New York. At 8, by Mr. Wray's kindness I had a Celebration at S. Martin's, which was the greatest comfort to me. There were several communicants. At 12 Mr. Wray and Harry, who had come to see me off, accompanied me on board the City of Boston--which sailed half-an-hour after I got on board. I was very comfortably berthed--with a cabin all to myself. The weather was very calm, though there was a dense fog at starting. I managed to eat a good dinner at 4--soon after which it became quite dark. The ship "hugged" the coast of Anglesey, on which we noted a curious appearance like a mountain on fire. I could get no satisfactory explanation of it. About 10 o'clock we ran down a small coasting schooner, which carried no lights. No great damage was done.

Nov. 19. I slept well and awoke at about 8, just as we were entering Queenstown Harbour. Finding we should remain at anchor until the afternoon, I determined to land and go up to Cork. This was my first visit to Ireland. I just caught the 9.30 train, and spent about two hours in Cork. The election was going on, a good opportunity for displaying mores hominum. I met several processions chiefly of Fenian sympathisers and the streets were crowded by an excited multitude. The mounted police appeared to be in a state of great vigilance and the military also were in readiness, but I saw no signs of an approaching row (though one did occur I heard subsequently). I visited the Cathedral of S. Finn Barr--which is being built from Burges[']* [Footnote: * William Burges (1827-1881) was a friend of Jenner's and had recently designed his crozier. The glorious cathedral in French Early Pointed Style was consecrated in 1870. The octagonal spire on the central tower is 240 feet high, and the West Front is truly magnificent. The interior is loftly with a semicircular apse. The massive buttresses, the great rose windows are particularly noteworthy. Near the pulpit is the tomb of Elizabeth Aldworth (1695-1775) said to be the only woman initiated a Freemason!] design. [81/82] It will be very good, I think. I returned to Queenstown by way of passage, the route being traversed partly by rail and partly by steamer. Very pretty it was. At 3.45, the City of Boston weighed anchor and steamed out of the harbour, the sides of which looked very green and lovely. It was blowing fresh, and we found a good deal of swell outside the harbour. The dinner bell rang at 4.15. I had very little appetite; but then, as I said to myself, and tried to persuade myself, it was such a very short time since my lunch at Queenstown. After dinner I walked about the deck till 7. I saw much of the Irish coast. We passed the Old Head of Kinsale about 7.30. I could not take any tea; and, it is no use disguising the fatal truth, premonitory symptoms are certainly manifesting themselves. Before I left the deck, all sails had been set, and we were going rapidly along with a fair breeze. Turned in (nobody goes to bed at sea) at 8.

Nov. 20. I slept the greater part of the night. The steward told me that it had been blowing very hard and that there was a heavy swell running. I spent the day in bed, and had two bad fits of sickness. I feel pretty comfortable when lying down. I could eat nothing all day but a bit of biscuit with cheese(!). The waves rise constantly far higher than the scuttle of my cabin which is of course closed tight. We are well out in the Atlantic now, with no land in sight.

Nov. 21. I slept well, though the night was rough. The steward brought me tea and toast at 9--which I enjoyed. Turned out (nobody gets up at sea) at 12. After dressing, I had a most violent fit of sickness. The wind being dead ahead, the ship pitches a good deal, there being no sails set to steady her. I could eat no dinner and was obliged to lie down again very soon after dressing. At 7.30 I had some tea and toast which I ate with some relish. My little cabin is very comfortable. It is a great thing having it to myself. I see by the numbers on the door, that it is intended to accommodate four passengers. The worst of it is they don't allow a light to be brought down for fear of fire.

Nov. 22, Sunday. I had a good deal of sleep at intervals during the night. The steward tells me we have a fair wind again and are doing 13 knots. The ship heels over a good deal and my scuttle is constantly under water. The arrangements for service on Sunday, seem to be highly unsatisfactory. The Captain reads Matins or part thereof at 10.15, when the weather permits. Today, the steward reports, there will be no service on account of the swell. I resolved to ask leave to hold a service in the saloon, and another forward, among the emigrants. But all my plans came to nothing, for I was unable to remain for many minutes in an upright position, so I had my services all to myself. Wonderfully appropriate was the 107 Psalm at Matins--and so I have no doubt they thought at Preston. It was unspeakably comforting to think of the number and earnestness of the prayers which were being [82/83] offered for my unworthy self, there and elsewhere, but especially there. I said the Office of Spiritual Communion at the time of the Preston Celebration, allowing for difference of longitude (1_ hours). It seemed to bring us all together as nothing else could. I wonder when I shall be able to leave my cabin. I managed to eat a little bit of roast beef and of plum pudding at 4, today; with this exception I have eaten no animal food since Thursday, nor drunk anything stronger than tea. I turned in at 9--the weather is pretty calm--wind easterly. All sails set.

Nov. 23. The wind changed in the night--and, being now right ahead, causes the ship to pitch fearfully. I awoke at 6 and turned out at 8. Went into the saloon for breakfast, but having no appetite I returned to my cabin, and read in a recumbent attitude till 1. Then I sat up a little, and felt better; at 1, I went on deck for a few minutes. It is blowing hard from the westward and the scene is most grand and impressive. This great ship appears as nothing in the tremendous expanse of ocean. The waves are immense. One of them, from crest to crest, would hold a ship six times our length. Had for dinner giblet soup, boiled pork(!) and apple pudding. The table is by no means full, though people are returning. I like the Captain much. He told me today that they see gulls and other birds during the whole voyage across the Atlantic. During dinner, the ship gave several awful shakes. This is caused by the screw propeller rising out of the water, when, meeting with no resistance, it revolves with uncontrolled rapidity. It is extremely difficult to walk in the saloon, or indeed, in any part of the ship. I had some conversation today, with an intelligent (though very dirty) Scotchman who is a cabin passenger, and believes himself to be a gentleman. He is a Presbyterian, but is much dissatisfied with that form of "worship". I turned in at 9. The wind had risen to a strong gale. No chance of sleep I fear. The screw keeps on shaking fearfully, and really seems to be as much out of water as in.

Nov. 24. Hardly any sleep, as I expected. About 2 a.m. I hear sounds of making sail, and the steward informed me that the weather was clearing and that all the fore and aft sails were set. A very heavy swell was still running, which continued all day. Every now and then the ship gave a most violent lurch. I could not manage to get into the saloon for breakfast, so I had a cup of tea and some cold ham and toast in my cabin. I don't get up my appetite as I expected, but I have not been ill since Saturday. For dinner today I had soup, fish (turbot), roast duck, pudding and cheese. I had some more talk with my Scotch friend. I find he is fond of music, and has a niece who plays Beethoven's sonatas.

Nov. 25. Our eighth day out. A most lovely morning, hardly any wind and a nearly smooth sea: but I suspect there must always be some swell [83/84] on this mighty ocean. I breakfasted with good appetite in the saloon--only I could not quite stand fried tripe and onions, which was on the table. After breakfast I went on deck, and quite enjoyed myself for a couple of hours talking to the officers. The Captain has a snug little cabin just before the bridge. An immense number of gulls and divers (and diverse other birds), were swimming and flying about the ship; and, to my great satisfaction, the chief officer drew my attention to a whale spouting, about _ a mile off. He (the officer) had hardly spoken before the monster showed the whole of his enormous tail above water, and immediately disappeared. They said it was a very unusual sight, so much of him being exposed at once. We are now (11 a.m.) just over the eastern edge of the Banks of Newfoundland, a long way from the island, and not in sight of it. Lat.46.23 N. Long.47.17 W. I have made the acquaintance of a New York man, who tells me that his brother is a Lincolnshire clergyman, and he himself a ci-devant Chorister in Lichfield Cathedral. He knows the Bishop and most of the clergy of N. York. It became very cold and raw about 1, and a fog which is common on the "Banks" came over, or rather, I suppose, we entered it. Dinner at 4. A capital appetite. The passengers and officers are all very civil--but the former are not of the most refined class. There is a Swede among them. His wife (who suffers dreadfully from sea sickness) cannot speak a word of any language but her own. The Doctor (O'Connor) is a Dublin man--and believes that he speaks like an Englishman. One of the passengers is in the sugar trade apparently, and another has dealings with Nottingham. The latter is musical, and has been to a Southwell Festival. I have had some talk with a tall gentleman from Cincinnati, Ohio--who is a good Churchman, and knows why he is.

Nov. 26. I woke very early and could not get to sleep again. Turned out at 8. A beautiful morning--rather more wind than yesterday but from the right quarter E.N.E. We are going along famously, every sail drawing. If this lasts we shall be at N. York by noon on Sunday. At noon today the Captain found we had run 324 miles in the last 24 hours--one of the best runs ever made by the City of Boston. We are in Lat.44.32 N. Long.54.28 W. The glass continues steady, and people are predicting a fine run into N. York. Made a capital dinner. Towards evening the wind shifted to the S.E. and the glass began to fall, symptoms of an approaching gale. Turned in early.

Nov. 27. Many happy returns of the day to Aunt Charlotte--I hope she has got the workbox--I should like to have seen it in its completed state. A good night, but I can never sleep after 5 a.m. when deck washing begins. The wind was fair, up to 8.15 when a change took place. The wind suddenly chopped round to the Westward and began to blow hard. This is a great annoyance, we shall be delayed, and not [84/85] reach N. York before Sunday evening, at the earliest. A gale blowing all the forenoon--yet the sun is shining brilliantly. The ocean looks most lovely. The waves are of a deep transparent blue, with crests of the purest white. We are over the "Banks" and it is sensibly warmer. The run today was a good one--300 miles. We are about 600 miles from N. York. The gale increases as the day advances. At dinner it was a difficult matter to keep the glasses, etc., from falling. I have had no return of sickness, though I feel more comfortable when lying down. Many of the passengers have retired to their cabins since the gale began, and do not appear at table. I have had a sore lip which has given me much discomfort. It is yielding to Mere --. The Captain is very chatty. He promises me fine weather on my way to the Isthmus--after passing Cape Hatteras. It seems curious that I do not feel the ennui of the voyage as I expected. Turned in at 9.30, with small hopes of sleeping, on account of the incessant pitching and shaking. The screw is worse than ever.

Nov. 28. The gale continued nearly all night. Broke a little at 1 a.m. I slept scarcely at all. The rolling, pitching and shivering of the vessel were dreadful. The Captain calls this a "strong gale". Breakfasted in the saloon. The barometer which fell very rapidly before the gale, now rises as quickly. The sea is still very high, but the gale seems gradually subsiding. Run only 146 miles today. After dinner I sat writing out my journal in the saloon till past 9, when I turned in. The sea was nearly calm.

Nov. 29. Advent Sunday. It is strange indeed to be at sea today. I slept well, but woke early. It was light at 7, not sooner, which surprised me. I calculated that the Celebration at Preston would be going on from 7.30 to 8.20 a.m. during which time, I said the office for Spiritual Communion in the Manual of C.B.S. with infinite comfort. I had a walk on deck before breakfast. This morning the weather was most beautiful. The ocean quite calm, the sun shining. Fore top sail and top gallant sail set with main and fore topsail. I made a good breakfast and then arranged with the Captain to have a service in the saloon at 10.30 and another in the steerage in the evening. At 10 the men were mustered on deck and exercised in getting out the boats. Then we went to service. The saloon was crowded and very hot. It was a queer sort of service. I wore my cassock, surplice, stole and hood. Said Matins and Litany--read the Epistle and Gospel and preached for 17 minutes on the Two comings. During the service nobody thought of standing or kneeling. They seemed to consider that it was all done by deputy, i.e. me. The responses were said by a few. My yankee friend especially, who however sat through everything. They were all very attentive to the sermon, which I found I might have prolonged, as we did not take [85/86] quite an hour over the whole function, but I was afraid of wearying them. Moreover, the heat from the hot water pipes was almost insupportable. I had a good deal of talk with another Yankee, a N. Yorker, in the afternoon--a churchman. He knows Bp. Potter and Cleveland Coxe. It continued fine all day except that a little snow fell about 2. The wind has slightly freshened. The run today was 260 miles. The Pilot came on board at 2.30. A small fore and aft schooner brought him. We are to land tomorrow morning, all well. At 6, I had the service in the steerage. Before beginning evensong, I suggested to the congregation an improvement on the saloon function, viz. that they should stand at the Psalms and at the prayers, if they could not kneel. I impressed upon them that standing not sitting was the next best attitude to kneeling. They fell into my wishes very well and the result was satisfactory. After evensong I preached for 25 mins. as plainly and earnestly as I knew how. They were extremely attentive, and many of the women were visibly affected. My friend, the Lichfield choir boy, came and recited the responses very well. The sugar man I find is agent for Rimmel the perfumer--dealing in sweets of a different kind from what I had supposed. There is a Fenian agent on board--a great ruffian with a wooden leg. He is (happily) a steerage passenger. Last night he was unruly and had to be locked up. I had a Welsh rarebit for supper, and turned in about 11. Blowing fresh from the westward.

Nov. 30. S. Andrew. I turned out early. A most glorious morning. Full moon, Venus and a few stars visible. Fire Island Light on our starboard quarter. Long Island just appearing. The sun rose at 7.10 (thirty-five mins. sooner than at London) the most magnificent sight--not a cloud to be seen--the sun coming clear out of the ocean. Till breakfast time, I walked about the deck with the Captain, who was very pleasant. After breakfast, on deck again to see the American coast--Long Island--Staten Island and the entrance of the harbour, a most striking scene to me. Hundreds of Yankee Gulls were flying about the ship. They seemed to me, but it might be only fancy, to be of a more impudent and swaggering kind than ours. The Brooklyn Fire Brigade, in red shirts, and with band playing, was parading as we passed up the harbour. We anchored in quarantine for half an hour, during which time the government medical officer came on board and examined the emigrants. Then we proceeded up to our berth--anchored again, and after an hour's delay were landed in a tender. The luggage was examined at the Custom House and passed very leniently. My boxes of books were not opened. I got a letter from the Bishop of N. York inviting me most cordially to his house.* [Footnote: * Jenner had met the Bishop of New York at the 1st Lambeth Conference, in the previous year.] At the Custom House, I met [86/87] Mr. Withers who was extremely useful to me. What I should have done without him, I cannot imagine. He got my things carried to a cab and paid everybody for me. The New York cabmen are the greatest ruffians possible--there being no law of fares, each driver tries to get as much as possible out of his passenger. The drive to the Bishop's in 22nd Street is through Broadway and Fifth Avenue. The pavement is very bad, but there are splendid shops, and crowds of people. The Bishop was most kind and hospitable and so was Mrs. Potter. After lunch Mr. Withers took me out for a walk. He showed me a good deal of the City, and took me into St. Alban's Church--a mean building--with, however, a well arranged Choir and Altar--the only one I fancy in N. York. We dined at 5.30. There are two Miss Potters. The other guests were a couple of clerical cousins and a Mr. Charrington, cousin to my Chislehurst friend. The dinner was peculiar but very good. Soup, fish (cod), roast turkey, Venison steaks (Red deer). The second course and dessert were mixed up together and comprised excellent scolloped oysters, apple pie and an enormous ice cream, with which preserved ginger was handed round. I had a very pleasant evening. One of the Rev. Potters is a professor at some college in Massachussets. The other is Rector of Grace Church, N. York City, now (1889) Bp. of N. York. The Bishop takes me tomorrow to a diocesan Convention at Albany 150 miles up the Hudson. He telegraphed to the clergy that I was coming. I can hardly believe that I am in America. It seems so like a dream. I am perfectly well in health, and there is something very invigorating in the New York air. Looking back at the voyage from Liverpool, I see cause for the deepest thankfulness, for its general prosperity and comfort: and I was not a little pleased to get a few minutes of quiet recollection in S. Albans this afternoon. I heard today that the William Penn, steamer, which comes hither from London, via Havre, was very nearly wrecked in mid-ocean. She was 17 days coming from Havre, and got in on the 22nd, so we must just have escaped the storm which she encountered.

Dec. 1. I had an excellent night's rest--in a very comfortable room. Outside there was a hard frost, but the whole house is warmed, and I felt nothing of the cold. We, i.e., the Bishop of N.Y. and I, started at 12, on our journey north to Albany. We went by train. All the railway arrangements were (to me) new and curious. The "cars" all of one class--with a passage up the middle, the vendors of newspapers and periodicals, of fruit, cakes and sweets, perpetually passing through; the store at one end of the car, and the vessel of iced water at the other; the general "free and easiness", combined with perfect orderliness of everybody and everything--were some of the more striking details. The line runs along the east bank of the Hudson river, and takes us through some lovely scenery. The Indian summer is over, and the trees have [87/88] suffered as to their foliage by one or two sharp frosts. Yet, in sheltered places, the leaves still remain on many of the trees. A few miles after leaving N. York, we got a fine view of the "Palisades"--lofty granite cliffs on the west bank of the river--which spreads out into a noble reach as you approach them. In another half-hour we came in sight of the beautiful Catskill Mountains. They were just dusted over with snow; and the sun shining brilliantly on their southern slopes produced a most exquisite effect. We were very lucky in having such a fine day. The winter seems to have begun a week ago with a very sharp frost. The Hudson will soon be frozen, and the navigation stopped. As it is, there is a fringe of ice, twenty feet wide, along the banks. This must be a terrible cold catching country. The railway cars, and all the churches and houses are heated--the two latter overheated and the contrast when you go out into the frosty air is far too great. About 3 p.m. we passed West Point, the great Military College, where Grant, Lee, etc., were educated. It was dark before we reached Albany--so we missed some of the finest scenery. We went straight from the station to the house of a Mr. Meads, a lawyer here--He is most agreeable and intelligent, and takes a warm interest in Church matters.* [Footnote: * Orlando Meads was one of the most prominent of the upstate laymen who had played a part in the extended negotiations which led to the founding of the Diocese of Albany: was a member of the first standing committee, at the Convention attended by Jenner; and became an incorporator of the temporary cathedral on 27 May, 1873.] He gave us an excellent dinner, and I had a most comfortable room to sleep in.

Dec 2. At 10 this morning the Diocesan Convention was opened. We had Matins and Celebration at St. Peter's Church.+ [Footnote: + Completed in 1860 from the design of Richard Upjohn 'the Elder' (1802-1878), a leading architect of the Gothic Revival in the United States of America. It is French in feeling--136 feet long, 68 broad, 64 high with apsidal chancel.] The Bp. of N.Y. preached, and I celebrated. An enormous number of communicants. The American Liturgy is superior to ours in one respect--the oblation immediately following the consecration. In other respects it is inferior where it differs. And the variations in the ordinary offices struck me as needless, and in more cases absurd. Bishop Potter's sermon was excellent. After service quite a crowd of clergy came round me in the vestry, to thank me for giving them "so Catholic a service". I hinted that it would hardly be so described in England. At St. Peter's, the Basilican arrangement is used. I did not like it. One awkward feature of it is that the Celebrant, when standing at the Altar, has one or more clergy facing him. There was lunch at Mr. Meads after service, and at 2.30 the business of the Convention commenced. I was invited to take a seat by the President's side--During the proceedings I made a short speech in reply to an address of welcome. The great agendum of the Convention, is the election of a Bishop of Albany, which will be pro-[88/89]ceeded with tomorrow. We remained in the Church all the afternoon. The Bishop gave an address, and several speeches were made on matters preliminary to the election. We dined at Mr. Meads at 5.30, and at 8, went to a "reception", which the Bishop held at the house of a Mrs. Barnard, who entertained us magnificently. All the clerical and lay members of Convention were present. After everybody had been led up and presented to the Bishop, and to me, supper was served, the chief features of which were huge bowls of stewed oysters, boned and stuffed turkeys, and prodigious ice creams. All day long it was freezing hard, and the cold on coming out of Mrs. Barnard's house at 11 was very piercing. I was not impressed with the intellect or refinement of the members of Convention. The clergy are very inferior as a rule. The laity, rough honest fellows, with no particular manners.

Dec. 3. I went to Matins at S. Peter's at 10 after which the Convention sat. All day long the balloting went on. There were three Candidates for the Bishopric. The right man was eventually chosen--Dr. Doane, son of the late Bishop of New Jersey, and Rector of St. Peter's, Albany.* [Footnote: * See paragraph below.] He entertained us at luncheon at 1. Mrs. Doane is very nice and gave us an excellent meal. Stewed oysters, of course, in profusion. My health was drunk afterwards and the Bishop of N. York made a little speech on the "great pleasure my visit had afforded him"--"which" he said "he should remember, as long as memory remained to him". There was a long discussion in Convention on the question of the name of the new Diocese. The "Trojans" proposed Albany and Troy--but it was ultimately determined to omit the latter.+ [Footnote: [90n] + The first diocese in the American Church to be called after its See city, (op cit p.75.) The constitution of the Protestant Episcopal Church was in design closely parallel with the constitution of the United States--diocese and state were co-extensive. The first break in the tradition was in 1838 when Western New York was carved out of the old diocese of New York. New York State was one of the strongholds of the Oxford Movement and it was held that primitive usage could only be maintained by breaking up the huge dioceses characteristic of modern Anglicanism. Op cit. p. 68. Bishop Doane of New Jersey was the author of Thou are the way; by Thee alone.] I had no time to see much of the city of Albany, the Capital of the State of New York. It seems a flourishing place. The Church element is evidently strong--more so than I had expected. S. Peter's was the only Church I entered. The arrangements are what in England would have been called "advanced" 20 years ago. The apse is furnished with seats for the Bishop and Clergy. The organ, in a west gallery, is a fair one. There were a few boys in surplices outside the chancel. They behaved ill, but sang pretty well. The style of music is, however, very bad. In the south aisle are two stained windows. I surprised the clergy by attributing them to the firm (Clayton & Bell) by which they were actually executed. One of the Clergy was an old Augustinian. He knew me, he said, and recognised my voice. Another was Mr. J. H. Hopkins (son of the late Bishop of Vermont), of whom I saw a good deal.# [Footnote: [90n] # John Henry Hopkins was one of the leaders of the Catholic Party who gave Dr. Doane valuable support and advice. Dr. Doane, who became a great and successful Bishop, had a political talent which none could admire and threw Hopkins over when he had served his purpose.]

[Footnote (above): * The Revd. George E. De Mille in his excellent A History of the Diocese of Albany 1704-1923 quotes from the MS Diary of a layman, John V. L. Pruyn, in the State Library at Albany:

'Thursday, 3rd Dec (1868). There was a large attendance today and a very active outside (what in politics would be called lobby) interest in favor of the Revd. Dr. Doane of St. Peter's, who was elected on the ninth ballot--by a majority of one in the lay vote (31 to 30). There was some pretty sharp practice, and some which would have done credit! to very sagacious politicians. I did not [89n/90n] vote for Dr. Doane not objecting on personal grounds - for I esteem him highly in many respects, but for the reason that his views are extreme in Church matters (he being a very High Churchman). He is not thoroughly Protestant in his feelings He is one of those who would discard the name Protestant could he do so!'

The whole diocese had been flooded by a pamphlet setting out in detail what were considered to be Dr. Doane's many wrongdoings and his enemies at Albany now attempted to block his consecration--a procedure which would not have been unprecedented where party feelings ran high. Bishop A. C. Cox of Western New York--a High Churchman but a leader of anti-ritualism took up the movement which was seconded by Bishop Kemper of Wisconsin who addressed a questionnaire to the Bishop-elect on his ritualistic practices and doctrinal views. Doane refused to submit to an inquisition, rode out the violent storm and was consecrated at St. Peter's on February 2nd, 1869.

It was hoped at the 1st convention that since the Church of St. Peter's was an old foundation and its Rector had been appointed 1st Bishop of the Diocese, St. Peter's might become the Cathedral of the newly formed See. Dr. Doane had had a stormy career there as Rector and on May 18, 1869, he severed his connection with St. Peter's. In 1872 he made a temporary building his cathedral and introduced eucharistic lights and white vestments--In 1873 he visited England to study Cathedral administration and in 1883 a plan for a permanent cathedral was accepted. Doane, like Jenner, was anti-Roman, and both men lived long enough to see their parties advance in a manner of which they heartily disapproved and came to be regarded by them in later years as somewhat outdated and 'protestant'. Many years later Doane told his extreme clergy, 'I know you are not Papists, but you are apists!' End of footnote]

[90] Dec. 4. At 10 this morning the Bishop and I took leave of Mr. Meads, and started by train for N. York. The line was the same as that by which we travelled on Tuesday. I mention this because there is an alternative line the other side of Hudson. It was a nice bright day, freezing hard. In the neighbourhood of Albany, people were skating on the Hudson. Lower down, the river was still open. The largest place we passed was Poughkeepsie, half way between N. York and Albany. But the country is thickly sprinkled with habitations all along the line. At one point there are enormous ice depots--for the supply of New York and the neighbourhood. The snow began to fall just before we reached the city. When I got to 22nd Street (the Bishop's) I found, to my great delight, letters from home, which I took up to my room, and devoured at my leisure. We dined alone at 5.30--I went to bed very tired.

[91] Dec. 5. It snowed all night, but a thaw coming on, the snow changed to sleet, and the whole city is full of "slush" this morning. In spite of the state of the streets, I sallied forth after breakfast, and walked about four miles down Broadway. First I went into Trinity Church, the largest and oldest in the city. Here I found a Dr. Ogilvie, one of the clergy, who took me into the vestry and showed me over the Church--The altar is very poor--The pulpit has a prodigious shell-like "sounding board", with which indeed, most of the churches here are furnished. There is a most excellent organ in the W. gallery; and a man was playing extremely well. While I was in the Church, he performed the fourth of Mendelssohn's Organ Sonatas, and the first movement of the S. Anne's fugue. He tried the G. Minor at my request, but could not make much of it. From Trinity Church, I went to Mr. Wither's office. Mr. W. had a great many questions to ask about Church building and arrangement. He was amusingly grateful for the information I was able to give him, and, intend to adopt my advice in his future churches. American architects feel the want of ancient examples to study. I do not believe there is one decent building in N. York. Mr. Withers took me to a restaurant and gave me an excellent lunch at 1. Oysters and Gruyere cheese. Then I walked back to 22nd Street, along Broadway, which was crowded in spite of the weather. At 5.30 (the usual dinner hour) the Bp. and I went to dine at a Mr. Tucker's, to whom Mr. Synge had given me an introduction. We had a very pleasant evening. Just before we started for Mr. Tucker's, a telegram came from Arthur "Shall I come to you on Monday"--I answered that I was here till Wednesday and could not expect him in such weather. But he may turn up before I leave. He is at Chambly, near Montreal, a hundred miles or more from Quebec. It is well that I did not go to the latter place to seek him.

Dec. 6. 2nd Sunday in Advent. A sharp frost last night. A bright sky above--The streets all frozen snow--the air most clear and exhilarating. I was awakened at 3 this morning by cries of "fire". Presently the bells of the fire towers began to ring, the policemen to knock the pavement with their clubs, making a great noise. I got up and looked out into the street. The engines were just arriving at a house nearly opposite, from the basement windows of which flames were issuing in a rather alarming manner. I thought nothing could save the house--but in a very short time the fire was got under, the mischief being confined to the basement. The New York Fire Brigade is a most efficient body, and the arrangements for extinguishing fires are wonderfully complete. My night's rest was rather interfered with by this incident, and I was not very bright this morning. The Bishop had to go to a place some 15 miles off to hold a Confirmation. I went to Trinity Chapel for [91/92] Matins--a good sized building with an apse. The choir is fair, and surpliced, and the service reverent. There was no celebration--it had taken place at 8 a.m. I preached. After service I walked home with Miss Potter. The streets were looking very lively. Several sleighs were to be seen. At 3 I went to the Church of the Transfiguration where I preached. This is a good sized building--very irregular in plan, having been added to at various times. There is a solid white marble altar. The Bishop of Maine said the prayers--a young and rather pleasant man.

December 7. It began to snow heavily this morning at 9. Then rain from 12 till evening. The streets are in an awful state, hardly passable by pedestrians. It seems nobody's business to remove the snow and mud. Heard this morning of the accident to the City of Boston. She ran ashore in the gale on Saturday, as she was going out of harbour. I remained indoors most of the day.

December 8. A fine day, and frosty but not very cold. At one o'clock the Bp. and I went to a wedding to which we had been invited at the house of (ex) Governor Fish,* [Footnote: * The Hon. Hamilton Fish (1803-93) was the most eminent canon lawyer of the American Episcopal Church. His father was Col. Nicholas Fish, a friend of Washington and Revolutionary War Veteran. Entered Congress as a Whig in 1842, Senate 1851, joined Republican Party 1856. He tried to persuade the Republican leaders to offer concessions to the south but when war broke out he became Chairman of the Union Defense Committee, and he was later appointed one of two commissioners to investigate the state of prisoners in the South and render them assistance. In March 1869, President Grant called him to be Secretary of State. He accepted on the understanding that he would hold office for a few months but in fact stayed for eight years. He stood out as a strong and honest man in an administration which was floundering and corrupt. Whether in foreign or home affairs, in business or in the Church he had a conciliatory attitude and a wisdom that marked him out as towering above his fellows.] corner of 17th Street and 2nd Avenue: The bride was Miss Fish, the bridegroom a Capt. Benjamin. It was a very grand affair, and all the best society of New York were present. We were magnificently entertained. The breakfast surpassed anything I had ever seen--the principal element (aliment) as at all New York feasts, was the oysters. Of these there were bushels, dressed and undressed. Mountains of ice cream in every possible shape, stewed terrapins (a sort of small turtle) and wines of every known kind. There was a good band playing in the hall almost all the time. The religious ceremony took place in the drawing room. A clergyman in surplice and stole officiated. The American office is very short--Few of the company could see what was going on and as the talking never ceased for an instant, it was not easy to hear the words of the service. The rooms were as full as they could be packed. The costumes of ladies and gentlemen were rather "loud", the conversation and manners the [92/93] same. General Grant was there. I was introduced to him. He shook hands with much cordiality, but did not say much. The New York Times, in reporting the wedding, says "Most noticeable among the guests were General Grant and Bishop Dunkeddey! of New Zealand; the latter in full canonicals" by which I presume the reporter meant my "apron", and, perhaps, gaiters. We had a few guests to dinner at the Bishop's, and I spent a pleasant evening. One was Dr. Forbes, a clergyman who seemed to have dropped his profession. He was very intelligent and agreeable. I have not been able to visit the Theological college here--which I regret--I travelled from Albany with one of the Professors, whom I liked much. From what he said, I gathered that there is a rather strong "Ritualistic" party among the students which gives authorities some trouble. Arthur has not made his appearance yet.

December 9. At 7.30 I was roused by a voice at my door, announcing that "my brother had come". I was up in a moment--dressed hastily and imperfectly, and found Arthur in the drawing room. It was a delight indeed to see him again, after 12 years. He was looking well, though thin. His spirits seemed very good, and his manner and appearance very much as of old--except his long light red beard. The Bishop and his family were extremely kind to him. At 10.30 I took leave of my most hospitable entertainers. I never can forget their exceeding kindness and attention to every wish I expressed, and to many not expressed, or even formed. The Bishop is a true specimen of a Christian gentleman, if ever there was one. Arthur accompanied me to the ship, which was alongside the wharf--and I got my luggage into my stateroom with no difficulty. Mr. Withers joined us before the ship sailed and brought my pastoral staff which he had obtained from the Customs Office. Mr. W. was of the greatest possible use to me. I literally could not have done without him. I showed the P.S. to him and Arthur. It was grievous to have to part so soon from A. but there was no help for it. At 1 p.m. we cast off, and steamed down the harbour. It was very cold--a stiff breeze blowing, with snow. When we got outside the harbour there was no perceptible increase of motion, the wind being light off the land--so we are secure of having a smooth sea for the present. What a comfort! I am berthed on the quarter deck, port side, and have got a capital stateroom all to myself. The Alaska is a vessel of 5000 tons--paddlewheel--and very ugly--built on the same principle as the huge saloon ferry boats of the American rivers. At 4.30 dinner, or rather "high tea", was served. I had not much appetite, and everything was cold. I read in my cabin till 9.30 and then turned in. There are comparatively few passengers. These boats at most seasons are crowded with Californians. Before going to bed I had a look at the stars. Sirius had just risen, and with Orion looked beautiful. Jupiter [93/94] also was very bright. It was odd to see Ursa Major so near the horizon and right astern of us, our course being due South. I have been taking Petroleum (3) for sea sickness, but it was hardly required.

December 10. A most glorious morning. I could see the sun rise at 7, from my window, as I lay in bed, and a wonderful sight it was. The wind having dropped, the sea is quite smooth. I slept very well. Breakfast at 8.30. I had coffee (bad) and fish ("twice-laid") but my appetite was poor. After breakfast I walked on deck with a book for an hour--the Captain introduced himself. I had sent him a letter from Mr. Howard Potter, commending me to his care. He was extremely civil and kind, and made me free of his cabin, which is in the forward part of the ship, close to the wheelhouse (or pilot house) which in these vessels is placed nearly on the forecastle. The Captain says we are just (at 10 a.m.) off Cape Delaware, and shall pass Cape Hatteras about 2 a.m. tomorrow. When I woke this morning, I thought we must have got into the tropics, my cabin was so warm, that I opened my window. I soon found that the whole ship is heated by steam pipes. Till 12 I sat writing in the Captain's cabin. A lady was there, going to San Francisco. I found afterwards she was the wife of the manager of one of the Theatres there. We are due at Colon this day week and tomorrow we shall find the weather quite warm--so at least says the Captain. It is pleasant enough today, and by no means cold, whereas when we left N. York it was bitter. Our course lies past the Bahamas, through "Crooked Island Passage", and near the island of that name. We shall sight, also, several of the smaller of the Bahamas group. We pass between Cuba and S. Domingo and may possibly catch a glimpse of Jamaica. There is a probability of my having to spend five days on the Isthmus. It is, happily, the healthiest time-- the trades having begun, and the rains ceased. At 12 I went to lunch. Appetite improving. The sea still calm. No wind at all. At noon we were in Lat.37.1 N Long.74.24 W and 227 miles from N. York. At 4.30 dinner was served--a very different affair from yesterday's meal. Everything was well done and well served. The Captain had ordered the steward to keep me a place at his right hand--the post of honour, where I am sure of being well attended to. One thing struck me as curious, and different from what I had heard of the habits of Americans. No one drank anything but water at dinner. I felt quite ashamed of my modest bottle of Vin ordinaire. But I discovered afterwards that there is an institution on board called a "bar" where the passengers "liquor up" And the Yankees have a habit of soaking in the solitude of their own cabins! It is amusing to see the thorough organisation of the regiment of waiters--When the passengers are seated at the dinner table, a bell strikes--and immediately all the stewards form in a line near a side [94/95] table, on which the dishes have been previously placed, a second bell, and they seize each man his dish, and stand motionless as before: a third bell, and they march off to place the dishes on the dinner tables--bell again--and all the covers are simultaneously whisked off, and the serious business of eating begins. This is all repeated at the second course. After dinner I had a walk on deck. The air is sensibly milder--what wind there is comes from the South. I have been walking about without my greatcoat, nor have I felt the want of it. In about 36 hours we shall be in "warm water", i.e. the Gulf stream. The glass is falling, so we shall probably have a breeze tomorrow. I hear that it almost always blows hard off Cape Hatteras. The sailors have a rhyme, I am told by a passenger:

"If Bermuda lets you pass
Then look out for Hatteras".

that is, sailing northwards. Before turning in tonight, I looked over the stern of the ship and saw the most brilliant phosphorescence in the wake. It was like liquid fire pouring from the paddle wheels.

Dec. 11. I slept very well till 6, when I was awakened by sounds of the wind freshening. On turning out, I found that it was blowing rather hard from the N.E., a change having occurred in the night. It has been raining hard too. The Alaska cannot hoist much canvas--but what she has is set. The north-easter I suppose, prevents the air from getting warmer. I felt very comfortable all the morning, but about noon it began to blow heavily, and by 3 p.m., there was a strong gale with a tremendous sea. We got some severe shaking about, and shipped a good many seas. I sat all the afternoon in the Captain's Cabin, feeling anything but at my ease. The steward encouraged me by hinting that there was a possibility of the cabin and wheelhouse being swept into the Ocean! I could eat neither lunch or dinner. Retired to my cabin at 5.30. Told the steward to bring me a biscuit and some cheese--but he never appeared. Turned in at 9. The gale, which had broken a little at sunset, came on again with fresh violence--so that a night's rest was out of the question. We are well to the South of Hatteras, and it seems to be an unusual thing to have such weather. At noon we were about off Savannah in Georgia in Lat.32.8 N Long.74.40 W and had run 234 miles in the 24 hours.

Dec. 12. I slept very ill, but just managed to escape sickness. It was blowing a heavy gale great part of the night. During a violent squall, the wind suddenly shifted from S.E. to N.W. The consequence was that the sea got into the wildest confusion, and the ship pitched and rolled fearfully. The Captain told me this morning that if the gale had not moderated he must have brought the ship to. These ships are not [95/96] built for heavy weather. The sea continued high till 11, when I turned out. I had a biscuit first which the steward brought me in bed. I upbraided him for his perfidy last night--but he excused himself by saying that he had a bad fall on deck. I sat in my cabin reading till 1, then walked about the deck. The day was lovely--though the sea was still rough. I got up a fair appetite for dinner--a remarkably good one. After dinner, I sat reading in the Captain's Cabin. A "Colonel" Rogers came in, the editor of a Boston paper. He is a most offensive man; swears frightfully whenever he has an opportunity, and makes opportunities when none occur.

Dec. 13. 3rd Sunday in Advent. Slept very well. At 7, I said the Office of Spiritual Communion, the time answering to about 11.45 at Preston. At 10.30, I said Matins in the saloon, and preached. We sang "Luther's Hymn" after a fashion. I started, and led it, and people tried to join, but nobody seemed to know it. There was a very good attendance. I used of course the American Prayer Book. At 2.30 I had a service in the steerage under circumstances of difficulty. I said part of Evensong and preached. The people were attentive, but there was much noise from the howling of the wind and of some children. We are now well in the influence of the trade winds, a steady N.E. breeze. It is very hot--what will it be further south! There are many flying fish about.

Dec. 14. A. glorious day. We passed several islands. During the night we had to lie to, lest we should run ashore in the dark. The heat is much less oppressive than I expected.

Dec. 15. We passed Cuba in the night. At sunrise we were off the N.W. of San Domingo. The coast line is very grand, some mountain ranges appeared at intervals.

Dec. 16. The weather continues lovely. At 10.30 we passed Navassa Island (only inhabited by Guano diggers). There were two brigs at anchor--and innumerable "man of war" birds sailing about. The island where the guano is not, is covered with low palms and other trees. It looked pretty in the bright sun.

Dec. 17. At 8 p.m. today, we arrived at Colon (Aspinwall). The approach is very grand--the mountains on the South American coast particularly so. Unfortunately, it was rather hazy. The heat is great, but by no means insupportable. It was quite dark when we came alongside the wharf. A crowd of negroes on the shore made night horrible with their noise. Soon after we arrived a benevolent fellow passenger brought me a delicious banana. I did not intend to go ashore before morning but I was persuaded to alter my intention. I was only absent [96/97] from the ship for half an hour. The place seemed excessively dirty--one saw scarcely any living creatures but negroes. There was an absurd dance going on outside a grog shop. The "music" was a drum and two pieces of wood knocked together. I noticed two cocoa nut palms--splendid fellows--close to the landing place. The air was full of fireflies. I hope the mosquitoes will not find me out in the night.

Dec. 18. I was up in good time and after breakfast, went ashore. I found to my huge dismay, that someone or other had got into my cabin and stolen a pocket book containing about £40 in notes. I suspect the steward who waited upon me, the more, as he never came near me all the morning, even to receive his honorarium. The Captain, to whom I complained, also suspects this man. But there are many on board quite capable of any dishonesty or crime. Another passenger lost 200 dollars from his cabin. I got my luggage ashore with some difficulty. Mr. Martin, the vice consul here, to whom Mr. Synge had given me an introduction, came to meet me. He took me to his house, which is on the sea beach and showed me the new American Church--a very poor affair.* [Footnote: * The oldest Episcopal church in Central America, it was built by the Panama Railroad Company in 1864, and was the only building in Colon which survived the fire of 1885. The Rector was the Revd. Henry Tulledge then recently honoured by the degree of D.D. by Kenyon College of Ohio. Star & Herald, 9 October, 1869. Dr. Tulledge left Colon in November 1870 to take charge of the church at San Jose, Costa Rica. Ibid. 26 Nov. 1870.] The first thing I saw on entering was a lizard crawing up the chancel wall. The clergyman, who has been ill, tried hard to persuade me to stay at Colon over Sunday, and take his duty, while he went to Panama. But I could not see my way to remain in such a dismal hole. The chances are, too, that I should have caught the Aspinwall fever. The train left Colon at 1 o'clock. There was a great crowd to see us off, of niggers, male and female--the latter gorgeously attired. The pace was pretty good till we got within 15 miles of Panama where a stoppage occurred, through the breaking down of the return train from Panama--there being but one line of rails--We had to wait no less than three hours, the result being that we did not get in till 6.20. Thus we missed the scenery of the latter part of the route--which is said to be the finest. But it can hardly be superior to that which we did see which is beyond description beautiful. It far surpassed my utmost expectations. Such prodigality of vegetable beauty I never believed could exist. It was as if the Palm House in Kew Gardens were indefinitely repeated over the loveliest imaginable hills and valleys. But there were palms and other trees that would not stand in the Kew building, if it were raised to ten times its height. The flowering trees were specially magnificent. Such masses of blossom--gold, white, scarlet, crimson and blue--everywhere dispersed--and the wonderful butterflies of every [97/98] possible hue, and the humming birds (behaving precisely as our H.B. moth does) and to crown all, the noble Chagres river, with its steep and lofty, and profusely timbered, banks, appearing again and again, as we went on, it was almost too glorious. One longed to linger at each fresh bit of landscape, in spite of the malaria. The marshy places produced the finest and most showy displays of floral beauty. The rich orange of the Arnica Indica was here especially noticeable. I saw no monkeys, except one old fellow (who might however have been a bear), sitting in a fork of a tree. Neither did any alligators show themselves. There are plenty of wild beasts in the forests, jaguars, pumas and bears, besides snakes of various kinds. All along the line, we passed villages, of huts, at intervals--with the funniest little naked negroes running about! The grown up people were dressed, after a fashion. One village belle was got up very elaborately. She had on a loose white robe, and a wonderful kind of "berthe", low on the shoulders, of numberless flounces on layers of the purest white lace. It began to rain as we were waiting at a station; and it certainly can rain in these latitudes. I got out of the car before it began and hunted for plants--but it was not a very good place, moreover serpents are to be met with. It was curious to see the sensitive plant (mimosa pudica) growing between the sleepers of the permanent way. A woman brought a tame anteater which she tried to persuade some of the passengers to buy. Others had bananas and oranges--the latter quite green, but deliciously sweet and juicy. When I got to Panama nobody offering me hospitality, I went to the hotel in an omnibus. There was great confusion at the station. The San Francisco passengers were making a tremendous noise. I had supper, with Major Stafford and Mr. Lousada, two English gentlemen on their way to N. Zealand: I went to bed very tired. The unglazed windows and mosquito curtains were suggestive of possible inconvenience during the night but I slept well and was not disturbed--The heat however is overpowering.

Dec. 19. I awoke refreshed but too tired to get up at the discordant invitation of the cracked bells of the Cathedral opposite from which I learnt that there were two masses before 8 o'clock. The Cathedral has two western towers facing the street. It seems very much out of repair. The Bishop came out while I was dressing. He had on a white robe lined with violet, and a black cape. His hat was of white straw, with a prodigious brim turned up with green silk, and he carried in his hand a long silver mounted black cane.* [Footnote: * See paragraph below.] This hotel is comfortable enough, [98/99] quite in the French style, plus American iced drinks, which are delicious. The town itself is a great improvement on Colon, and is indeed quite equal to a third rate Spanish or Portugese city. It was too hot to do much walking about today. In the evening I dined with Mr. Henderson, the Consul, who has a house commanding the most glorious view of the bay and the Pacific. The prospect is bounded by the loveliest hills and steep green islands appear here and there. Mr. Henderson gave me a nice dinner, and then drove me in his carriage to the cemetery** [Footnote: ** See paragraph below.] which I am to consecrate on Tuesday. The ground is in bad order, but the situation is very pretty--in a lane overshadowed by trees of all kinds, which are covered with masses of creepers--a gorgeous Ipomoea was the most conspicuous of these--but most flowers get burnt up by the sun during the day the early morning is the only time to see them in perfection, I had a little adventure today--In the morning one of the waiters of the Hotel, a Jamaica mulatto, came and asked me if I was a clergyman--and being satisfied on that point, told me that a friend of his wanted her child baptized in the "Protestant faith". I told him I did not know what that might be--but promised to go and do what I supposed was required. There is no clergyman of our communion at Panama. In the evening, as Mr. Henderson and I were sitting at tea--in walked my friend the waiter, unannounced--and with a low bow informed me that "they were all ready". I said "Who are ready?" "The sponsors" replied he. "Why," I said, "I never undertook to go this evening". "Oh no" said he, "I am perfectly aware of that and I don't blame you in the least". "Don't you?" said I "I shouldn't much care if you did." However, I went with my cool friend, and he took me through a number of lanes and alleys, [99/100] and up several flights of stone stairs and along a balcony--through a window in which we entered a good sized room, well furnished, where I found a poor girl not more than 16 with a child 6 months old. After I had baptized the child, I turned the sponsors out and had a talk with the mother. I think I made some impression, for she promised to come to my Evensong next day, and kept her word. But alas! marriage is a rare thing here, comparatively. Just as I was leaving the house, the waiter made his appearance with a tray of large glasses of Champagne, each with a lump of ice floating in it and insisted on my taking one. It was one of the most delicious draughts I ever had, the night being extremely sultry, and I forgave him (the waiter) his impudence on the spot.

[Footnote from page 98: * 'Friar Eduardo Vasquez, Dominican Religious, native of Tunja, was consecrated Bishop of Panama in Bagota in the year 1853; but he could not reach his diocese until the fourth of May of 1856 due to the political disturbances which at that time were agitating the republic.' [98n/99n] (History of the Bishops of Panama), Guillermo Rojas y Aerieta (Abp. of Panama), tr. from the Spanish by T. J. McDonald C.M., Panama, 1929, p.207.)

In 1863 when the Bishop attempted to hold funeral services for an assassinated patriot who had opposed the anti-clerical dictator, Gen. Mosquera, he was arrested and banished to Peru.

"In 1865 the sentence of banishment was lifted from Bishop Snr. Vasquez; but he remained in the diocese a very short time, for he departed to Rome, called to attend the Vatican Council and died in the Holy City ... ." ibid p.211.]

[Footnote from page 99: [99n] ** This Cemetery has been known first as the Foreign Cemetery, then the British, the Protestant and now the West Indian. The two earliest burials are marked by tombs whose inscriptions read

'Beneath this stone are interred the mortal remains of Leonard Childers, one of the secretaries to the British Legation at the Congress of Panama, who died at this place of the yellow fever, July 14. 1826, aged 21 years' and

'Sacred to the memory of John James Le Mesurier whose remains lie underneath this stone. He was the third son of Thomas Le Mesurier, rector of Houghton, England. He came to this place as Secretary to Mr. Dawkins, commissioner from the King of England to the Congress at Panama. He had not been here a fortnight when he was seized with the fever of the country and died at the early age of eighteen on the 14th of June 1826'.

Little wonder that Jenner was fidgety about the fever!]

[100] Dec. 20. I went to the 9 o'clock mass when the Bishop celebrated and preached. The ritual was far from satisfactory. The music, awful. The altar has a front of solid silver carved in alto-relievo. The altar desks (2) candlesticks are also of silver. There are ambones, but they are not used. The Epistle and Gospel are said at the Altars the two desks being used for the purpose. The Bishop preached very energetically, sitting in a chair on the choir steps. There were not many present. The church here has been shamefully robbed from time to time--Whenever a revolution takes place, i.e. about every year--a fresh spoliation begins. They saved the silver altar front some years ago by painting it black!* [Footnote: * The Ven. Edwin C. Webster, Archdeacon of Colon, thinks that Bp. Jenner is confused here. The Church of San Jose, which is one block away from the Cathedral, has a famous golden altar (is pure gold leaf over carved mahogany) which was saved from Morgan's pirates in Old Panama in 1671 and transferred to its present site by the Augustinian Fathers in 1677. The same story is told, that it was saved by a coat of black paint. No silver altar now exists or is known to have existed, in the Cathedral.] I paid a visit to the Bishop at 7 this morning. I wanted to borrow his Pontifical, to help me in drawing up a service for the consecration of the cemetery. He was very courteous, and readily lent me the book. He could speak French fairly, so we got on pretty well. In the afternoon, as I was sitting (in my shirt sleeves) at work at the Consecration service, his Lordship walked in to return my visit. He was attended by a servant, who coolly sat down in the room. The Bishop and I had a long talk. I showed him my pastoral staff and gave him some information about the English Church, of which he knew next to nothing. He is, of course, a Spaniard, but has been to Paris. In the evening, at 7, I had a service in the Masonic Hall, which was well attended by people of both sexes, and all colours. I said Evensong and preached on the coming festival. I used the American P.B. hearing that the people were most used to it.

Dec. 21. St. Thomas. I finished my Consecration office, and sent it to the printer. High mass at the Cath. at 9.30. I walked about the town in the afternoon, having bought a white umbrella. It was necessary to [100/101] keep in the shade--the sun being very powerful. I heard today that the Ruahine, in which I hoped to go to Wellington, has been seized for debt, and would not be allowed to leave Panama. The general opinion, however, seems to be that the Royal Mail Co. will pay the demand, and that the Ruahine will get off as usual. The Atrato, from Southampton, has not arrived at Colon. I have determined to go on board the Ruahine tomorrow, after the Consecration. This hotel is very comfortable but the place is far from healthy--and there is always smallpox about. This morning I saw a man carried from the hotel to the Hospital. He was stricken with "Aspinwall fever" (I suppose the Aspinwall people call it "Panama fever") and died in a few hours, I heard. He was a Spanish gentleman. Mr. Henderson has been very civil and attentive. He is expecting his wife from England by the Atrato.

Dec. 22. At 4.30 p.m. Mr. Carvine the very obliging agent of the Pacific Mail Co. drove me to the cemetery. There were a good many people, black and white, large and small, assembled. The service went off very well, I thought. I wore my robes and carried my P. Staff. It was very hot work, and the mosquitoes were troublesome, and threatening, though they did not actually attack me. At 6, Mr. Carvine had provided a four oared gig to take me to the Ruahine, which was lying about 3 miles off. It was just sunset, and a lovely evening, as, indeed, all evenings seem to be here. Major Stafford and Mr. Lousada came on board with me, and returned in the boat. I steered with my usual discretion--but it was rather ticklish navigation to a stranger--and the boatmen and I not understanding each other's language, made it still more awkward. There were plenty of sharks to receive us, if the boat had upset on one of the numerous reefs. However we got safely on board, I had some supper, and was presented to Captain Beale. I cannot say I liked him. I sat talking with him on the quarter deck till 9 p.m. He amused himself and tried to amuse me by abusing everybody and everything mentioned, except Capt. Beale--He is a Sandwich man, and knows most of the residents in the neighbourhood, including the Slaters. Turned in at 10.

Dec. 23. A tedious day on board the Ruahine. Everybody looking out in vain for the signal of the Atrato's arrival at Colon. It was terribly hot, though a pleasant breeze sprung up at 3 p.m. I have a nice cabin to myself.

Dec. 24. Christmas Eve. This morning the signal was made that the Atrato had arrived. The Passengers from England will be at Panama this evening, but there is no chance of our getting off before tomorrow at noon. Whatever shall I do tomorrow! No possibility of a Celebration. The Captain scouted the idea, when I mentioned it yesterday. I never expected such a Christmas Day as this. It can't be helped--that is all that can be said. The Atrato ought to have been in on Monday. [101/102] The N. York steamer arrived last night, so that I might actually have waited another week in the States. 7 p.m. I have just been sitting on deck joining mentally in the Preston Xmas Eve services. I sat up till midnight looking at the stars--The Southern Cross being visible and thinking of the first Christmas Eve. I have been, and am, in excellent health, in spite of the heat. Everybody says the weather will become cooler very soon after we leave this. Even on the Equator there is generally a nice breeze. Certainly I should not like to stay in this bay, lovely as it is, many more days. Some of the officers are gone to a small island two miles off to gather cocoa nuts. They asked me to go with them, but the heat was too great. The live stock on board consists of a fine Newfoundland dog (Rover) who swims about the ship regardless of the sharks: a monkey who is very amusing: a cow, two Panama bullocks, and a number of fowls, ducks and turkies. The cocks begin crowing at a most unreasonable hour every morning. The Ruahine seems a comfortable ship, though she is much smaller than the City of Boston or the Alaska. I hope I shall retain possession of my cabin. There are only 25 passengers to embark and 16 of them are children. I have been very low spirited all day. It is this unnatural Christmas that causes it.

Christmas Day. 9 p.m. I woke early and have been following the Preston services all day. The Captain went ashore soon after breakfast. I had matins on the quarter deck, a very fair attendance of sailors. I preached after service for about 20 minutes. The Captain returned to dinner with the encouraging news that the mails have been seized as a security for the non-departure of the Ruahine, and the passengers are not allowed to embark. So we are here for another day at all events. What an intolerable nuisance. I was forced to do without evensong. According to the Captain, sailors don't seem to have any souls to speak of. Hence the minutest proportion of religious services is enough for them. The crew were shouting and singing uproariously, far into the night--the result, I presume of extra grog.

Dec. 26. S. Stephen's Day. Our last day at Panama, and a very hot one. It was thought that we should get off by noon--but it was midnight before the tender with the mails and passengers came alongside. I had finished my last letter, and given it to the Chief Officer to send ashore, and had gone to bed. Just as I was dropping off to sleep, the Baritone whistle of the tender roused me. This was the signal of its having left the quay, and a mighty commotion it caused on board the Ruahine. In less than a quarter of an hour the tender was alongside. They took an hour transhipping the cargo, mails and passengers and at 1.00 we weighed anchor, and steamed down the bay. It was a great relief, for, beautiful as it is, I was heartily sick of Panama.

[103] Dec. 27. Sunday, S. John. Evang. We had a large party at breakfast this morning. To my great delight I was allowed to retain undivided possession of my cabin. My immediate neighbour at breakfast, was Mrs. Morant, a widow with several girls, the youngest of whom, aged 5, is called Dora. Opposite, sat Dr. and Mrs. Turner, friends of Mrs. Morant, who have boys and girls on board. These are all bound for Nelson. For some time past they lived at Hayling Island and know the Hardy's (Mrs. Hardy was Charlotte Martin of Keston), Dr. Turner is a Glamorganshire man, and knows all about us, and everybody in the county. But the strangest thing is there being a cousin of mine on board--Arthur Lascelles--He is son of Frank L., my first cousin--Rowley's brother. We fraternized warmly after breakfast. I liked what I saw of him very much. He is going to Auckland. His wife (No. 2) and 8 children, are on their way out by sailing ship. He is a barrister, and has spent most of his life in India. Of the other passengers by the Atrato I can say little at present. One of them is a Mr. Kingscote, son of H. K. and by all accounts a brebis noire. At 10.30 I had matins and sermon on the quarter deck. Not a satisfactory service. Everybody was lounging about from beginning to end. I preached on S. John--as the Beloved, and the Teacher of Love, I could not get a second service, the ship being in confusion, and the rule (as I hinted before) being to have as little religion as possible. In the evening, Mrs. Morant and Mrs. Turner joined me at the piano, and we sang some hymns. I greatly wished I had brought the Xmas Carols. Turned in at 10--a very warm night. Ship going steadily.

Dec. 28. Holy Innocents. A most oppressive morning--a heavy swell but no wind. Everybody seemed overcome by the heat--especially the ladies. Mrs. Turner is extremely ill. I could not eat much breakfast, or any lunch, but at dinner I did better. At noon today we were in Lat.4.2 N Long.83 W. Tomorrow night we hope to cross the Equator. I suffered from extreme languor all day long; and in the evening, lying down on my cabin sofa, I fell asleep, and it was midnight before I woke! The officers are civil and obliging, but the Captain is very difficult to get on with. His manners are brusque and coarse, and one has to be very careful in speaking to him, lest he should take offence. The day before I came on board, one of the sailors having drunk too much, chose! to jump overboard. He swam about a mile from the ship, and was with difficulty picked up. The sharks missed a fine opportunity. The following day another man being seized with the "Aspinwall fever", became delirious and was only prevented from imitating his messmate's example by being put in irons. This man had run away from an American ship on the Atlantic side, and had walked across the Isthmus, sleeping in the villages, and catching the fever as a matter of course.

[104] Dec. 29. (noon) Lat.l°31' N Long.84°4' W. Distance run from noon yesterday--192 miles. A most lovely day, a nice breeze making the temperature quite bearable. It is curious to feel it cooler as we approach the equator--yet so it is. There is a considerable swell today, but it has no effect on me. I have not had a good appetite since we left Panama. I don't like the cooking. The meat is dreadfully tough, and no wonder, since in this climate they are obliged to cook it as soon as it is killed. The entrees, considering the cook gets £120 a year, and all found, are very inferior. We have had strong currents against us, which accounts for the shortness of the run.

Dec. 30. Lat.0°32' S Long.84.W. Run 199 miles. Another short run, owing again to the currents. We crossed the line early this morning. There was no ceremonial on the occasion. The day is beautifully cool--the thermometer is only at 75° in the shade, and a delightful breeze is blowing. This state of things just on the Equator was, by me at least, quite unlooked for. The ship has been carrying her trysails today and yesterday, which makes the heavy swell, which still continues, less unpleasant. In the afternoon, between lunch and dinner, the heavy time of the day, I got Mrs. Morant's children together, and told them the story of "Alice", as well as I could recollect it. I had a better appetite today. The sailor who was ill at Panama is getting worse. I begged the doctor to let me see him. He told me the man was delirious, but promised to call me if he regained his consciousness. I fear he is sinking, yet he eats well and his pulse is not weak.

Dec. 31. Lat.2.40 S Long.84.20 W. Run 220 miles. A better run; and now we are out of the adverse currents, we shall get on faster. The weather all day has been most delightful. A steady breeze on our port beam made the temperature cool and pleasant, besides sending the ship along bravely. I have had a bath nearly every morning since I came on board, but the sea is getting so salt that I shall have to leave off. I have no reason, however, to complain of this Pacific Ocean, which seems to me well to deserve its name. The passengers and officers are talking of getting up a concert next week, but they do not seem to know much about such matters. The sick sailor is no better today. He is in a state of lethargy, and takes no notice of anyone, even when spoken to. I found today that Major Stafford is an intimate friend of Herbert Nepean, and has been to the Cloisters. We saw a quantity of stormy petrels today. Not a sail of any kind has been seen since we have been out--though one day we nearly went over a large spar belonging to a wrecked or dismasted ship. Last night we passed the Gallipagos islands.

[105] 1869

Jan. 1. Circumcision. A happy New Year to all my precious ones. The year began well. The morning was magnificent. The wind being fair and fresh, every sail was set. A good run today--252 miles. Lat.5°9 ' S Long. 92 W. There is a huge swell--The bright sun makes the ocean lovely. I got one of my boxes up from the hold today, and extracted my desk together with the photos of Preston Vicarage, over which I gloated in my cabin. The sailor died today, never having regained consciousness. At 8 p.m. I buried him. It was a very impressive service: and the officers and crew were evidently touched by it. It took place at the lee gangway--The night was very dark and there was a stiff breeze blowing. The only light was a single lantern near me. The body was as usual covered with the Union Jack. The wind has been fair all day, and every stitch of canvas is set. Flying fish have been very abundant.

Jan. 2. Lat.7°19 ' S Long. 96.44 W. Run 257 miles. The day is beautifully fine though there is still a heavy swell. A good many birds about the ship. My appetite is very poor today, and I had some symptoms of a sore throat, a complaint that has been prevalent in the ship lately. I took Merc. and Bell. alternately which effected a cure. The temperature is now much lower than when we left Panama. But nothing can be more delightful than the weather. It is "summer" this side of the Equator, whereas at Panama it was "winter".

Jan. 3. 2nd Sunday after Xmas. My darling Mildred's birthday, God bless her. I began to think of it last night when I went to bed, there being nearly 7 hours difference of time between this and Preston. We had Matins and Sermon in the saloon at 10.30. I preached a New Year's sermon, and referred to the death of the sailor last Friday. There was a good attendance of passengers and sailors. We had a good run the last 24 hours, 272 miles. Lat. 9°34'S Long. 100.41 W. At 7.30, I had Evensong and Sermon in the fore saloon--a fair muster but not so many sailors as I had hoped. A better appetite today. We have had oranges and fine apples daily as dessert--a great treat. Several "Boatswain birds" have been seen today. They are white above and pinkish below--their tail feathers are very beautiful and valuable--each bird has but one white and scarlet. The natives of Opara use them as ornaments.

Jan. 4. Run 286 miles. Lat.ll°5' S. Long.104.34 W. A shorter run than we ought to have made, but the Chief officer tells me the engines have been "priming" i.e. water getting in where steam should be--a result of the swell. Another glorious day. The wind is just where it was--indeed, we have not altered a sail for five days. The colour of the water is most exquisite. We had a few fried flying fish for breakfast, [105/106] and very nice they were. They come on board in the dark, attracted by the ship's lights. When I went on deck this morning I found that a gull had just lighted on the skylight: being unable to rise, one of the men threw him into the air, when he flew away as if nothing had happened. The Captain thinks we shall get to Wellington by the 24th. A weary time, this, yet I think it passes more quickly than I expected. The Captain is rather more amiable than he was. He is never tired of talking about Sandwich and the neighbourhood, and he romances not a little in relating his youthful exploits. This afternoon he pointed out to me what he called a young waterspout, hanging like a jelly bag to the clouds. We are quite out of the track of other ships--Indeed no sailing vessel would take this route on account of the adverse currents.

Jan. 5. Lat. 13°34' S Long. 108°30" W. Run 258 miles. In the night the wind got more aft--and the main trysail was furled--which caused the ship to lose way. It became much warmer, also immense shoals of flying fish seen today. I had a sad disaster this morning. I was sitting reading in my cabin with the port open, when in came a sea and flooded the whole cabin. I was wetted to the skin and had to change everything--My desk was half filled with water--so was the Past. Staff box, and even the tin robecase did not wholly escape. The cabin floor was 6 inches deep in water. The "concert" came off this evening--a very poor affair. I listened on the quarter deck and heard quite enough through the saloon skylights.

Jan. 6. Epiphany. Lat.l5°28' S. Long.ll2°8' W. Run 240 miles. The recollection of this day as it used to be, compared with what it is, did not tend to raise my spirits. After breakfast, I sat at the piano, and sang, by myself, all the dear old Epiphany hymns. The vane of Preston Church, as we used to see it on our way to Matins on this day, shining in the sunlight, and reminding us of the Star--came constantly into my thoughts. There is very little wind today and the ship rolls heavily. Some of the passengers are playing at sea-quoits, the quoits being rings of 2 inch rope which they pitch, or try to pitch, into a bucket. In the evening, I had a little talk with A. Lascelles, (whom everybody call Mr. La sells). He seems an agreeable and well-informed man, and well up in Law. The Southern Cross was not to be seen at 10.30--the horizon being cloudy. The Magellanic Nebulae I saw for the first time, tonight. They are like splashes of the Milky Way.

Jan. 7. Lat.l7°14' S Long.ll5°51 ' W. Run-239 miles. A splendid day--no wind to speak of, so we roll a good deal and it is very hot. We are to arrive at Opara it is hoped, this day week and remain there 12 hours. I had a long talk with Mr. Elliot the mail agent today. He tells me that Captain Beal is anything but popular on board and that I am by no means the first passenger that has complained of his manners. It [106/107] seems that some of the officers overheard a conversation between him and me on the evening of Dec. 23, while we were at anchor at Panama. The Captain after his manner was abusing one public character after another, till at last I could stand it no longer, so I wished him good night, saying that it was "much too near Christmas for anymore evil-speaking". The officers enjoyed the incident extremely. I had a good view of the Southern Cross tonight. It is not to be compared with Orion.

Jan. 8. Lat.l9°7 ' S Long.ll9°45' W. Run 249 miles. The ship rolls more than ever. My night's rest was disturbed in consequence. The sun at noon is nearly if not quite vertical. It is curious to see people's shadows scarcely projecting beyond their feet. At 11, this morning there was a sharp squall of rain and wind. It did not last fifteen minutes--but the downfall was tremendous. Several waterspouts seemed to be forming. It was deliciously cool after the rain, and the wind freshened nicely. This afternoon A. Lascelles related to me certain encounters with tigers in India. One of his hands is badly disfigured by the teeth of one. Mr. Loftie, the chief officer, gave me today a pair of wings of a flying fish, which are very pretty.

Jan. 9. Lat.20°58' S Long.l23°54' W. Run 243 miles. A very heavy squall of rain this morning at 8. In the evening, I made the acquaintance of Dr. Guntz, a passenger on his way to Melbourne--I knew before that he was a medical man, but he surprised me by mentioning his friend Dr. Fischer of Dunedin, a homoeopathic physician--I asked him how he dared call such a one his friend, when he told me that he was himself a Homoeopathic physician--so we fraternised immensely. He is a Dutchman--very intelligent, and seems to have a large practice at Melbourne. The wind freshened a little at night--Fore and aft sails set.

Jan. 10. First Sunday after Epiphany. Lat.22°46' S Long.l27°25 ' W. Run 240 miles. More than half way from Panama to Wellington. A glorious day. The wind has dropped again, yet there is much less rolling. I had Matins and sermon in the saloon at 10.30. I preached on the visit of the Magi. Very warm all day. 6.30 p.m. A terrible incident has just occurred. I was walking on the quarter deck, when two sailors came running aft crying out "a man overboard". The engines were stopped, a life buoy thrown over the side, and a boat lowered, in an incredibly short span of time. A man was sent to the mast head to look out for the poor fellow, who would be a long way astern. Alas! nothing could be seen of him, and the boat, after an hour's absence returned. It was supposed that the screw struck him, for he never seems to have risen to the surface at all. It was a most sad case. There is little doubt [107/108] that the man was insane, (for he threw himself overboard). He was the oldest sailor in the ship, which he joined at Sydney on the last voyage. He had been behaving in an extraordinary manner several times--refusing to work and insisting on being put ashore at Panama. Yet he was a sober man. He had been at the service in the morning, though it was noticed that he left before the end. The affair quite overcame me--I had Evensong and Sermon at 7.45--but I was not fit for much. (I find that the life buoy is of use not only as a support in the water, but also to indicate the situation of the drowning man, the buoy being of course carried in the same direction).

Jan. 11. Lat.24°32' S Long.131.19 W. Run 239 miles. A better run than was anticipated, considering the time that was lost yesterday evening. We are now out of the tropics--yet the heat is still intense--We passed, without seeing it, a small coral island, or reef--Oneo-Pitcairn's Island--50 miles to the South--would have been visible, had the atmosphere been clearer.

Jan. 12. Lat.25°36' S Long.l35°41' W. Run 246 miles. A thick cloudy day. The air saturated with moisture--everything sticky and damp. Nothing happened worth recording It is a fortnight since I tasted beer or wine. I am not certain whether it is good for me to go without. In the evening I felt unwell and turned in early.

Jan. 13. Lat.26°39' S Long.l40°17' W. Run 256 miles. I was not at all well today. I could eat scarcely anything. Feverish symptoms set in, which increased towards evening with extreme debility. It was just like one of my old rheumatic attacks, without the pains. I took Nax V and Aconite. I turned in at 9--but was kept awake by the incessant and noisy, and occasionally profane talk of Mr. Kingscote, and some of the younger passengers who chose to take up a position in the saloon close to my cabin. There was a change of weather today. About 2 p.m. it began to blow heavily and by sunset there was a strong gale, with a tremendous sea. The ship was hove to for 17 hours, during which time we went astern considerably. The Captain, coming down in the saloon during the evening, I ventured very respectfully to ask him whether the ship was lying to. He replied in offensively rude terms. What a bear the man is!

Jan. 14. I was very ill and weak when I awoke this morning. Not a sign of sea sickness however. I had a cup of tea in bed, and a bit of toast. I could not get up--indeed it was all I could do to lift my head off the pillow so I stopped in bed until one, when I managed to turn out and dress by slow degrees. I had a cup of broth, and was better in the afternoon. Dr. Guntz gave me some Arsenicum. Dr. Turner advised quinine, which I respectfully declined. A very poor run today--38 [108/109] miles. Lat.26° S Long. [missing]. We began to go ahead at 6.30 this morning. Wind all day S.W. (a stiff breeze) and therefore nice and cool, but dead against us. We were, at noon, 207 miles from Opara, which we ought to have made today. All being well we shall get there by 2 p.m. tomorrow. It seems to be the general opinion that the Captain ought to have gone on, instead of lying to, and that he will get unmercifully "chaffed" about it at Wellington.

Jan. 15. Lat.27°39 ' S Long.l43°4' W. Run 143 miles. The wind continues very high, and a tremendous sea is running. We are only doing about 6 knots. At 11.30, the officers made out a tall rock, far away to the South, which proved to be one of a group called the Four Crowns (also called Bass Island). At 3.30 Opara was sighted and rapidly became very plain--right ahead of us. By 5, we could make out the coast outlines--which are very bold and irregular. An attempt was made to get into the harbour before nightfall, but it would not do. The channel is very narrow and intricate, with coral reefs on each side, on which account it can only be entered by daylight. We were abreast of the island by sunset and shall have to stand on and off till 5a.m. and then go in. We shall begin coaling directly and it is hoped that we shall get off again tomorrow evening. The quarter deck has been in a state of coal dust all day, the men having been at work getting up coals from the aftermost bunkers. Everybody is dirty and uncomfortable. It will be worse, I fancy, tomorrow. I had some conversation today with a Mr. Stuart, a Scotchman, who is going to Auckland, and has property in Otago. I believe we are to have a French Naval Officer on board to dinner tomorrow. He is governor of this wonderful island (which has also a king, and a population of 130). Opara (or Rapa) was not originally one of the regular coaling stations of this company: but a reserve of coal was kept, in case any of the ships should exceed their ordinary consumption, and be in danger of running short before reaching Wellington. Now, all the ships call here, much to the disgust of the Officers. I am not sorry to see the island, though it will delay us at least 48 hours. I have been much better today, though my appetite does not return. I mean to keep Capt. Beal at arm's length. I have had no communication with him since his intolerable rudeness the other night.

Jan. 16. We got alongside the coaling hulk at 7 a.m. The passage from the open sea is short, but extremely intricate and dangerous from the coral shoals. Most lovely is the landlocked harbour. Such magnificent green hills, with deep indentations, and ravines. Rocks project everywhere, and, at the head of the harbour, a conglomeration of round topped eminences, gives the impression that a general boiling up of the earth had taken place, followed by a rapid cooling, before any subsi-[109/110]dence could occur, indeed the whole island is volcanic, and the harbour itself has the appearance of having once been a crater. Large flocks of wild goats were feeding on the hillsides. We began coaling at 9, before which time many boats and "catamarans" came alongside. First, a soldier in full uniform, being the French army of occupation. Then, numbers of natives with bananas, cabbages, flowers, calabashes, and magnificent pieces of coral like enormous mushrooms, for sale. They all came on deck, and it was amusing to hear the officers and men talking to them. They, of course, understood not a word of what was said--but they grinned good humouredly, and showed their teeth. Many of them are tall and good looking--colour dark brown. Before these ships began to call here, i.e. about two years ago, the natives knew nothing of money, and attached no value to it. But now they are the keenest of traders, and will sell nothing under a shilling. About 8 a.m. the sharks began to gather round the ship. Some passengers got out a salmon line! on a reel, and baited some gimp hooks with beef. A shark laid hold of one, and snapped the line in a moment. Major Stafford shot at another without effect, but a young shark without experience, cruising round the gangway in an impudent manner, a cunning quartermaster watching his opportunity slipped down the ladder and laid hold of the fast young gentleman's tail. He was very soon flapping about on the deck in great disgust. At 10, a boat was sent ashore with a large party of passengers--myself among the number. The doctor (of the Ruahine) was good enough to accompany me in a ramble about the island. We climbed nearly to the top of one mountain, but my late indisposition had left me very weak, and I could not finish the ascent. There were some awkward places to get over, but we met with no accident. We followed a track along the hill-side, hoping it would take us to a fine piece of rocky ground overlooking the harbour, but a swampy place (planted with yams) intervening, we had to change our route. And now we found the descent to the shore--through an almost impenetrable mass of grass and reeds, as tall as a man, and an undergrowth of all kinds of creepers, etc.--a good deal more than we had bargained for. It was really tremendous work, and took us a long time. The grass cuts like a knife and my fingers were soon bleeding. We overcame all obstacles at last, and reaching the beach, I strolled along hunting for coral and stones, and so made my way to the landing place, whither my companion had preceded me. The chief plants that we met with were a verbena-like weed, which grows everywhere, a lovely Ipomoea, large, blue and sweet scented. A yellow Oxalis and ferns without end, all new to me. The most striking was a magnificent one like Hart's tongue, but an asplenum not a Scotopendrum: with fronds three feet long, and three inches wide, bright green, with a nearly black rachis. There were of course a good [110/111] many other plants, but very few in flower. The trees are low and insignificant. There is a plantain, and a nut bearing tree called candle nut; also a few oranges, whose fruit is not worth much; and a tree bearing splendid yellowish white flowers, resembling Stephanotis--and with as delicious a fragrance. These are used by the natives, men and women, as ornaments. They wear them round their necks, or stuck through their ears in which large holes are pierced. Before returning to the ship, I called at what we chose to designate the "Palace"--a low, one roomed house, thatched with plantain leaves. The King was in the garden, digging without his coat. He shook hands with us with much affability. The Queen had a baby a few days old. We were introduced to her, and to the young "princes" and "princesses". They are all dark, but by no means black. This "nation" is rapidly dwindling away. The total population--including the last royal baby is 129. The only religious teaching they have had appears to have been from the London Missionary Society. There is a building which they call the Church, where the King officiates. I felt uncommonly helpless among them. Their language resembles the Maori--at least Mr. Walton, one of the passengers, who spoke Maori, was able to make himself understood. The French commandant came and dined on board. He is a lieutenant in the Imperial Navy, and was sent here from Tahiti, as soon as the island began to be frequented by English ships. I suppose he will go back again when this Company collapses. He is a Breton, and has a wife and family in France. Poor man! There are letters for him in the mail which we brought, but he dare not open them--they must go to Tahiti, and be sent back again in a sailing vessel which runs at irregular intervals between the two islands. I sat writing in the saloon most part of the evening. Card playing was going on all round me. The language of the players was not always pleasant to hear. The coaling was finished by 9 p.m. but we cannot sail before daylight. An agreeable discovery was made today. The last ship from Panama had two cases of smallpox on board when she arrived here, and three others broke out before she left, in spite of which her passengers were allowed to go ashore. Now had the disease gained a footing among the natives, it must have extirpated the whole nation; for (1) contagious fevers always assume a most malignant type among such people (2) vaccination is unknown (3) they have no medical man. Measles, some years ago, destroyed two thirds of the population of Opara--Well: the Kaikoura: arriving at Wellington, with smallpox on board, would of course be put into quarantine, and equally of course, we shall be refused pratique, coming from Panama, where the smallpox was shipped by the Kaikoura--However, everybody says that with our clean bill of health, we cannot be detained more than 24 hours. One thing there seems no doubt about--that this business will give the coup de grace to [111/112] the P.N.Z. and A.R.M. Co. even if its hopeless embarrassments allowed it to survive. It is extremely satisfactory to learn that hither to not a single case of smallpox or cholera has appeared either in N. Zealand or Australia. I found an old Portugese from the Cape de Vera islands at Opara. He had been left, ill, years ago, by a whaler. I tried to converse with him in his native tongue, but he seemed to have forgotten it, or perhaps I had. I got terribly scorched today on my neck, etc.

Jan 17. 2nd S. after Epiphany. When I woke this morning, my neck felt as if someone had been trying in the night to cut off my head with a blunt saw, and had partially succeeded. We got under weigh by 6.30 a.m. Directly we were running clear of the island we found a remarkably nasty sea running. The wind being fresh and fair, we went along at a good pace, (for the Ruahine) but there was a good deal more pitching and rolling than I liked. Indeed I was nearer being seasick than I had been since the City of Boston days. No service, alas! today. I could hardly lift my head off the pillow. I had a cup of broth for lunch, and a slice of mutton for dinner with some fresh cabbage, a great treat.

Jan. 18. Lat.29°39' S Long.l49°29' W. Run 246 miles. A very fine day--The wind much less fresh, and the sea smoother. I was not up for breakfast, feeling very weak. My breathing also was much oppressed. I rose at 11 and had some broth, then I went on deck. The debility and oppression continuing, I thought I would ask Dr. Guntz what I ought to take and he gave me some Phosphorous, and told me by all means to take wine or ale daily. I fear I must admit that the experiment I have been trying, to do without either, has proved a failure. I was better in the afternoon and made a good dinner.

Jan. 19. Lat.31°14' S Long.l53°48' W. Run 247 miles. A delightful day and much warmer (it had been quite cool the last day or two). The wind is right aft. It died away altogether in the afternoon. I am very much better today. The first Albatross was seen this morning. They are never found in the tropics, the doctor tells me that their great breeding ground is in the Auckland Islands. Last night there was very nearly being another case like that of the 10th. The sailor who had already given trouble by jumping overboard at Panama, got too much grog, and became quite insane. He ran up the rigging, and out to the end of the main trysail yard, and was hardly prevented from leaping off into the sea. He made a tremendous noise, but was finally ironed. While we were coaling on Saturday night, a man fell overboard and was rescued with the utmost difficulty.

Jan. 20. Lat.32°50' S Long.l57°59' W. Run 233 miles. A by no means good run considering the weather which has been magnificent during the last 48 hours. The wind however has been very light. I con-[112/113]sider myself off the sick list now--I intend to take good brisk walks every day. I am sure the want of exercise is injurious to me. Nothing to record. The night was glorious--the stars very brilliant.

Jan. 21. Lat.34°47' S Long.l72°16' W. Run 231 miles. We are now about the latitude of the northern part of N. Zealand. The weather continues most lovely, and the temperature is as near perfection as possible. The wind freshened up in the morning but subsided again in the afternoon.

Jan. 22. Lat.35°46'S Long. 166°20' W. Run 219 miles. Heavy showers of rain at noon. It was quite cold in the evening.

Jan. 23. Lat.37°10' S Long.l70°52' W. Run 232 miles. Nothing to record.

Jan. 24. Sunday (Septuagesima). Lat.38°43 ' S Long.l75°18 ' W. Run 228 miles. A nice day with a fresh breeze. Matins sermon at 10.30. No evensong, Captain Beal rudely responding to a message I sent him requesting the use of the saloon. More than one passenger intends to complain of the gross incivility of the Captain.

Jan. 25. Conversion of S. Paul. Today be it observed is Monday. Lat.40°12 ' S Long.l79°47 ' W. Tomorrow (which will be Wednesday the 27th, as we shall have got into East Longitude) We hope to see land.

Jan. 27. No Tuesday this week, and no 26th this month. I came on deck at 7.20 when the N. Zealand coast, just north of Cape Palliser, was plainly visible. Most interesting to me was the sight. The coast is very grand; full of wonderful "effects" of light and shade. We soon came near enough to make out the vegetation--great masses of fern and scrub, a few huts here and there, and several bush fires, but not a human or other being to be seen till we got into Wellington Harbour. We dropped anchor at about 4 p.m. and then went to dinner. The first news we heard was that there had been terrible doings at Poverty Bay and elsewhere, on the part of the Maories. Then the final collapse of the P.N.Z. and A.R.M.S. Co. was announced. There will be no more mails that way. At 5, Mr. Prendergast, Attorney general of N.Z. came on board, and brought me a packet of papers from Mr. Edwards, which I took down to my cabin and read. I am requested, it seems by the Gen. Synod, to resign my claim to the See of Dunedin, for the sake of the "peace of the Church".* [Footnote: * See paragraphs below.] Most unfair this, to lay such a responsibility on me! I certainly never anticipated such action as this, on the part of the Synod. Probably I should have acquiesced, if I had not left England before it reached me, but now--well I can only hope and trust that I shall be guided to a right course. Bp. Selwyn has written a letter [113/114] entreating the Dunedin Churchmen to receive me as their Bishop, and this justifies me in postponing my decision till I have visited the diocese.+ [Footnote: + See paragraphs below.] I went ashore with Archdn. Hadfield and the Rev. Mr. Ewald, who came off to see me. The latter is a friend of W. Clarkes, and was Mr. Churton's curate. I drank tea with the Archdn. and slept at Mr. Ewald's. I had much talk about my affairs. Wellington is a straggling place All the houses are of wood, on account of the prevalence of earthquakes. The harbour is very beautiful, the surrounding hills lofty and bold. The wind here is terrific. The Phoebe to Port Chalmers sails tomorrow, at 3 p.m., weather permitting. The Bp. of Christchurch asks me by telegraph to stop there on my way south. I replied, begging him to meet me at Lyttelton.

[Footnote above: [114n] * This was the Fourth General Synod--the last to be presided over by Bp. Selwyn as Metropolitan. His successor, The Bishop of Christchurch, was to be known as The Primate. The Editor of The Guardian (Feb 3, 1869, p.117) eulogises the Synod and hopes that Bp. Suter will have learnt from his colleagues how better to behave before the Fifth Synod. They have enjoyed 'the wholesome influence which has been influenced by the discipline of self-government . . . They show a readiness to appreciate facts, and an anxiety to deal with them in a sensible and practical fashion, which contrasts not unfavourably with the windy debates on obsolete phrases and unrelenting party watch-loads to which he may have sometimes listened in deliberations, whether of clergy or laity, at home.' It is clear from Selwyn's address that he was equally pleased with the Synod. 'If we do not think together, at least we have been able to act together. Our Synodical meetings, guided by the Spirit of Counsel, have saved us from the eccentricities of individual zeal.' After all this one is dumbfounded to read that, when the Synod came to consider the report on 'the Ecclesiastical arrangement proposed for that part of the Diocese of Christchurch which is included within the Rural Deanery of Otago and Southland,' it was moved by the Bishop of Christchurch seconded by Mr. Martin:--

"That the appointment of Bishop Jenner to the See of Dunedin be not confirmed by the Synod" (Proceedings pp.44-5)

The Hon. Col. Kenny seconded by Mr. Beckham moved an amendment--

"That inasmuch as the sum raised towards the Endowment Fund of the proposed Diocese of Dunedin is totally inadequate to the support of a Bishop--"
RESOLVED
1. 'That the Synod does not see the way open, at present, to the completion of the Ecclesiastical arrangement in connection with the proposed Diocese of Dunedin.'
2. 'That the Rural Deanery of Otago and Southland be formed into a Diocese, to be administered provisionally by the Bishop of Christchurch.'

There followed a prolonged discussion, and then a second amendment to the Bishop of Christchurch's motion was proposed by the Rev. S. Blackburn and seconded by the Rev. S. Lush--

'That this Synod, having carefully taken into consideration all the circumstances in connexion with the See of Dunedin, is unable, in the present state of the question, to find any sufficient ground for with-holding its recognition of the appointment of Bishop Jenner, but while acknowledging the appointment, and declaring that it shall be competent for Dr. Jenner to enter upon the duties of his Office, the Synod would urge upon Bishop Jenner the expediency of his resigning the Bishopric, on the ground of the difficulties experienced in obtaining an adequate endowment.'

[115n] This motion was negatived after some discussion and the Synod resumed the discussion on Colonel Kenny's amendment. Mr. Lush asked that it should be divided and section 1 only was put--

	Ayes	Noes
Bishops	4	2
Clergy	5	12
Laity	8	12

Permission was given for Col. Kenny to withdraw Resolution 2 and the Synod adjourned for half an hour. One would give something to know of what went on in that fateful interval. The Primate-elect must surely have trembled for his cause! On resuming, his son, Archdeacon Harper, moved and the Dean of Christchurch seconded an amendment--

'That whereas the General Synod is of opinion that it is better for the peace of the Church that Bishop Jenner should not take charge of the Bishopric of Dunedin:--This Synod hereby requests him to withdraw his claim to that position.' Carried

So the Bishop of Christchurch triumphed and crowned his efforts by moving

'That the foregoing Resolution be communicated to the Archbishop of Canterbury, the Bishop of Christchurch and Bishop Jenner, and the Rural Deanery Board of Otago and Southland.'

As disgraceful a set of proceedings, it might be thought, as has ever darkened the deliberations of a Synod. According to Selwyn's biographer Rev. H. W. Tucker--Vol. II pp.225/6 'that Prelate thus liberated his own soul.'

"The facts alleged in the report of the Committee are founded very much on evidence that would not be admitted in a court of law. Three years ago Bishop Jenner signed a declaration, assenting to the provisions of our Church Constitution. He consented to be bound by the regulations passed from time to time, or to be issued by the General Synod. He has also undertaken to resign his appointment, together with all rights and emoluments appertaining thereto, when the General Synod may call upon him to do so, or any one duly appointed to do so. That declaration was received in New Zealand, and entered upon the minutes of the Standing Commission of the General Synod, in June, 1866. There was an interval from that date until the consecration of Dr. Jenner in August, 1866, which gave time to interpose objections if any one had chosen; and, if any valid objections had been made, the Standing Commission would have considered it to be its duty to recommend the Archbishop of Canterbury to stay his hand. The first proceedings began in April, 1867. nine months after the consecration. I look upon this action of the Committee as amounting to an attempt to depose Bishop Jenner. Dr. Jenner was consecrated with as much formality as I was myself consecrated. The Standing Commission is the proper tribunal to which this matter should be properly referred, as it has been specially appointed to deal with such questions, and consists for the most part of legal gentlemen; and if any of the friends of Dr. Jenner thought it necessary, they will have a perfect right to appeal to its decision. The sufficiency or otherwise of the endowment fund seems to be the question on which the present Committee has come to a decision; and if, therefore, at any time the endowment becomes adequate, it may be competent to enter as a plaintiff on behalf of Dr. Jenner." End of footnote.]

[Footnote above: [115n] + After a long statement of admitted facts, the letter went on to say:

'I feel, therefore, that nothing has been proved by any opponent of Bishop Jenner, which ought to debar him from entering upon the duties of his office, whenever a sufficient income, clear of all incumbrances, can be supplied. In consideration of being appointed Bishop of Dunedin, he has signed a general declaration of obedience to the laws of the General Synod. He has further stated his willingness to be bound by that promise, as applicable to the question of Ritual, on which objections have been raised against him. His statements to that effect have already been accepted by many, who, before the arrival of his letters, had opposed the appointment. The Constitution to which he thus submits himself was framed to protect as well as to restrain the office-bearers of the Church. The Constitution requires that all grave charges against any office-bearer shall be referred to a tribunal. In this case there have been no tribunal, no charges, no evidence, no respondent, and no opportunity of defence. All the objections alleged in the Report of the Committee relate to pecuniary difficulties, which may be removed at any time by the united action of Bishop Jenner's friends in England and in New Zealand.

[116n] In the absence of any definite charge or insuperable difficulty, such as ought to exclude Dr. Jenner from the Bishopric of Dunedin, we all concurred in the request that for the sake of the peace of the Church he would resign his claim. But this argument of peace has a double aspect. Bishop Jenner may claim of his opponents with greater justice that, for the sake of the peace of the Church, they should withdraw their opposition. If he has done anything unlawful according to the law of the Church in England, let it be proved. That he will do nothing against the laws of the Church in New Zealand, we have his own solemn promise, which we are bound to believe. Any breach of that promise (it is scarcely necessary to add) by his own written covenant, would make him liable to the forfeiture of his Bishopric. For his sake then, and for the sake of the Synod, and for the sake of the peace of the church. I do most earnestly entreat my dear friends and brethren in the Rural Deanery of Otago and Southland to withdraw their opposition, and to accept Dr. Jenner as their Bishop. This way of peace is more complete than the other, because it will bring to an end all controversial discussions, and will obviate the necessity of electing another Bishop; and above all, because it will shew that we have confidence in the power of our Synodical system to restrain those eccentricities of private zeal, which have disturbed the peace of the Church at Home.

I remain, my dear brethren, your affectionate friend and pastor,
G.A. LICHFIELD AND N. ZEALAND End of footnote]

[116] Jan. 28. I hardly slept at all on account of the worry. My brain was in a state of utter confusion all night. After breakfast I took a walk with Mr. Ewald--(As soon as I opened my window in the morning, I heard the sustained stridulous noise which I took to be from a ropewalk close at hand. I found afterwards that it was caused by a cicada of some sort.) I called on the Governor, Sir Geo. Bowen.* [Footnote: * Sir George Ferguson Bowen (1821-1899) was first Governor of Queensland 1859 and appointed Governor of New Zealand, 1867 (Sir George Grey having defied the Colonial Office once too often) and pursued a successful policy of conciliation with the Maoris and settlers. Governor of Victoria 1872, Mauritius, 1879, Hong Kong, 1882, Privy Councillor 1886.] Very pleasant he was. He seemed to know all about me and my family. He asked me to dinner this evening. And he walked with me to the Museum where he introduced me to Dr. Hector, the manager, (a Dunedinite). The Governor stayed with me at the Museum _ of an hour. Here I saw plenty of nice things, all admirably arranged. There were two huge pieces of greenstone brought from Otago--fossils--birds--insects, etc. Also a really magnificent collection of etchings by Rembrandt, L. da Vinci and others, just presented to the Museum by "Bishop" Monrad of Denmark. Arthur Lascelles came in while I was at the Museum. I introduced him to Dr. Hector. Then we (A.L. and I) went to call upon the Attorney Gen. and Mr. Barraud (brother of Lavers B) who were both out. It came on to blow heavily in the afternoon. The Phoebe will therefore not sail today. I went on board at 4, and Mr Barraud and the Attorney Gen. came to see me shortly afterwards. Visited the Parliamentary library (a capital one) with the latter, who was extremely anxious that I should sleep at his house: but I declined, preferring the independence of the Phoebe. The Governor's dinner was at 8. I had a most pleasant evening--Commodore Rowley Lambert, of the [116/117] Challenger, and two Adelaide gentlemen, with the military secretary, Capt. Smith, were the other guests. The Governor was most agreeable. He was a Fellow of Brasenose and knew many of my friends. Lady B. is at Auckland. She is a Corfiote. At 10.30 when the gentlemen retired to smoke, the Governor made me sit over the fire with him till nearly midnight and talk. (The only thing that struck me as odd, was that Sir George was always helped first to everything). He expects to come down to Dunedin with Prince Alfred, in March and hopes to find me there. Got on board the Phoebe and to my cabin without being observed.

Jan. 29. Breakfast at 8.30, very well served. I slept pretty well. The weather does not improve--No going to sea today. The Ruahine sailed for Sydney last night. There are two men of war in the harbour--the Challenger and Blanche. Commodore Lambert is a friend of Robert's and brother of Capt. L. of Canterbury (England). The wind, from the S.E. is quite cold. It would be right ahead if we sailed. Dinner on board at 1--very nice--plain joints and vegetables. A great improvement on the Ruahine. This is a small vessel, only 416 tons--but a good and comfortable sea boat, they say. It rained and blew hard all day. We shall not stir till the weather moderates. I did not leave the ship. I thought a good deal of my plans today. They are getting more into shape. If we sail today, I shall (I think) remain at Christchurch over Sunday. I shall not officiate in N. Zealand, until my position is more defined. But I shall hold meetings at which I can explain and defend myself.

Jan. 30. No change in the weather all night, and as it still blows a gale, we are not to sail today. I went ashore after breakfast, and walked about with A. Lascelles. We entered our names in the Visitors' Book at Government House. We spent the evening at Mr. Prendergast's. While I was there a telegram reached me from Edwards. "Come to Dunedin as soon as possible". We are to sail tomorrow (Sunday) morning--so my hopes of a Sunday ashore will come to nought. The wind has gone down. I have dropped the title of Bishop of Dunedin, and have become plain "Bishop Jenner".* [Footnote: * What can have induced Jenner to have reached such an inexplicable decision does not appear.]

Jan. 31. Sexagestma Sunday. Breakfasted (with A.L.) at Mr. Prendergast's. The latter has been most kind and hospitable to us. The Phoebe sailed at 9.30. There was a fresh breeze, and a heavy swell outside the harbour. I was by no means comfortable--and spent most of the day recumbent in my cabin. I was not sick, however. At 7, I went on deck for half an hour. We were just passing the Kaikoura range. They looked most majestic. The summits were covered with snow, and [117/118] stood up well above the clouds like the mountains on the Lake of Lucerne. An extremely impressive scene! They are far higher than I had imagined yet Mt. Cook in Canterbury is nearly twice as high as the Kaikouras, which are even surpassed by the Otago ranges. So at least says "the Hon. I. Hall", member of the Legislative Council, who is a passenger. He lives at ChCh. and seems to be a good Churchman. We are to arrive at Lyttelton at about 6 a.m. I wonder what the Dunedinites would say, if they knew how dreadfully I am tempted to take the Gen. Synod at its word and start off home at once. We had Evensong in the saloon at 8. A good attendance. I was not up to a Sermon.

Feb. 1. At 7, I came on deck, the ship was stopped twice during the night on account of the dense fog, which continued until 9--when it lifted and showed Bank's Peninsula close to us. We steamed into Lyttelton Harbour and anchored about 10. I went ashore in the Customs boat with Mr. Hall. The first person I saw was E. Girand, coming off in a boat to see me. He looked very much as of old. The Bp. of Ch.Ch. never came to Lyttelton.* [Footnote: See paragraph below] There was no time to go to Ch.Ch. and back before the Phoebe left: so I walked about with Girand and a Dr. Donald, one of the original settlers, who showed me the Church and the Town Hall, Lyttelton is very pretty. Beautiful green heights on each side of the harbour with bold projecting rocks everywhere, but very little timber. The Phoebe left her anchorage at 1--A heavy fog was driving up from the sea. We went very slowly, stopping to take up Capt. White of the Blue Jacket, a sailing ship, which is to start for England about the middle of the month. She furnishes her cabins and provides linen, etc, and charges only £50--not more than other ships which give no such advantages. I feel very much inclined to go back in her.+ [Footnote: + The Blue Jacket was totally destroyed by fire off the Falkland Islands in April--on her homeward voyage.] After dinner (at 3.30), the fog increasing, we dropped [118/119] anchor, as the Captain did not know where he was. Shall I ever get to Dunedin, I wonder? It takes 18 hours in clear weather to go from Lyttelton to Dunedin. We remained at anchor till 9, when, the fog clearing, we weighed and went ahead.

[Footnote: [118n] * When Mr. Young later addressed the 1st Diocesan Synod he made great play of this incident.

". . . At Wellington he received his Lordship the Bishop of Christchurch's letter, and in that letter his Lordship expressed a desire to see him. He did not even reply to his Lordship but went to Lyttelton. Why did he not telegraph from there? Did he expect his Lordship to meet him at Lyttelton. and was not his act of omission one of disrespect?

A MEMBER: He did telegraph. The telegram miscarried. It was given to Captain Kenson.

In reply to a question from a member.
His Lordship said: I received no letter or telegram direct from Bishop Jenner.

Mr Young continued to say that whether Bishop Jenner telegraphed from Lyttelton or not. the facts disclosed convinced him that Bishop Jenner was anxious altogether to avoid the Bishop of Christchurch (Oh, oh! No, and confusion). Gentlemen might object, but he would point out that Bishop Jenner had passed, so to speak, by the very door of the Primate's house, and, without seeing him, had come down here thus adding fresh fuel to the fire already kindled."

All this ignores the fact that Bishop Jenner had expected that the New Primate would be his earnest advocate. Who one might ask, gave Mr. Young his information? Who kindled the fire?]

[119] The land was close to us, so it is well we stopped. I had some conversation with the purser about the melancholy accident, which caused the death of the Campbell family in 1863. He was at Dunedin at the time. It was a collision, though, the two vessels mistaking each others lights. The whole family was below at the time and had no chance of escaping. The Captain of the Blue Jacket, a most pleasant man, told me a good deal about his ship, and the advantages she offered to passengers and volunteered to get the passage money considerably reduced, in the event of my family arriving out with him next July. Turned in at 10.30.

Feb. 2. Purif. B. V M. I had a good night's rest. The fog continued all night, more or less, but we have been going very fairly. Capt. Wheeler expects to arrive outside the "Otago Heads" by nightfall--but there will be no getting up to Port Chalmers before morning. The day was very calm, and not cold, though the wind is still S.W. We saw land near Waikouaiti, I believe at 1 p.m.: but there was not much to be distinguished, except some low flat topped hills. There have been many sharks round the ship today. The Captain shot at several without effect. At about 6 p.m. we passed through acres of "whale feed"--minute crustaceans like young lobsters, on which the whale lives. They give a reddish colour to the sea. At 8.30, we anchored outside the "Heads", and are to move up to Pt. Chalmers at 4.30 a.m. I do not expect any kind of "reception" at Dunedin; so, as they can scarcely mob me, I shall not be disappointed whatever happens. Mr. Edwards in his letter, promised to meet me at Port Chalmers--but, the Phoebe having been so long coming, I doubt whether he will. Probably I shall have to walk solus from the jetty to the town.

Feb. 3. The Phoebe weighed at 6--and anchored at Pt. Chalmers in half an hour. A most exquisitely beautiful place, this--surpassing anything I have seen, in N. Zealand or elsewhere. To my great relief four Dunedin gentlemen came on board to see me. viz. Rev. E. Granger, Messrs. Quick, Howorth and Panthin, all warm sympathizers. There seems to be huge excitement at Dunedin. I could summarise the features of the situation, after the fashion of American newspapers:

Great excitement at Bp. Jenner's Arrival.
Commonly supposed that he will insist on preaching.
Meeting last Friday convened by Young & Co.
[120] Measures adopted against Bp. J's Reception.
Bishop Harper "telegraphs to Young that he shall not allow him to officiate."
No harm done to Bishop J. but the contrary.
Vestries and congregations of S. Paul's and All Saints indignant at his exclusion from pulpits.
Telegram sent to Bp. Harper, who refuses to withdraw inhibition.

My friends took me ashore, and gave me a good breakfast at the Hotel. At 8.30, we left in a small steamer for Dunedin. The morning was fine; the scenery as we passed up the harbour unspeakably lovely. The shores, steep and bold are covered with bush, and, where cleared, with the greenest grass. Here and there appears a settler's homestead, with blue smoke curling up through the trees. Then there are several small but lofty islands, among which our course winds. These are clothed with verdure from the water to the highest elevation--except where the rich brown rock peeps out. In about _ an hour, the City of Dunedin came in sight. It is far more imposing and larger than I had expected. At 9.30, I landed--not without deep feelings of thankfulness to God, for His most merciful protection throughout my long voyage. There were crowds of people on the jetty to see me, much respect was exhibited. Edwards, Dasent and others took me to the Parsonage in somebody's carriage. Mr. Edwards, I liked much. He is most kind in every way. Mrs. Edwards also is very pleasant indeed and good looking. Also, a lady. Almost all day, I was receiving visitors. Heartiest welcome from everybody. The excitement at my inhibition is by no means abated. S. Paul's vestry met again and adjourned till tomorrow, after sending another telegram to Bp. of Ch.Ch. In the afternoon, I walked out with Edwards, and called on Mrs. Bell. Dunedin is a surprising place, S. Paul's Church is better than I had expected. Poor Edwards has just received the news of his mother's death, and is in great "affliction". A memorable day this, my reception has far surpassed my expectations.

Feb. 4. My dearest Herbert's birthday. God bless him! After breakfast, I walked with Edwards and Dasent to call on Granger, who lives near the "Water of Leith", in the N.E. part of Dunedin. It was a very pretty walk, by nice gardens full of Gladiolas, Carnations, Verbenas, Calendulas, etc. all looking so wonderfully healthy and thriving. Granger's house is small but very comfortable and has a charming little garden in front. All Saint's Church I did not see. Back again to the Parsonage by 12.30. I found a letter from the Primate--very hard and unsympathetic. He desires me "not to attempt to officiate either as a Bishop, or as a Minister of our Church in Otago or Southland". Assuming that this was my intention, he lectures me on my duty to the N.Z. Church. An uncalled for proceeding this. It would be well if the N. Zealand [120/121] Church would remember its duty towards me. In S. Paul's vestry there seems to be increased excitement. They appointed a committee with orders to keep on telegraphing to the Primate until evening, or until they got a direct answer to the question, whether he forbids me to accept the invitation of the Vestry to preach next Sunday at S. Paul's, but the Primate declines further correspondence except by letter. The Vestry were unanimous in wishing me to preach. I answered the Primate's letter in the afternoon, but I was perpetually being interrupted by sympathising visitors of whom there seems no end. The milder of the adversaries are beginning to come, e.g. Mr. Whittingham and Mr. Oliver. The former an opponent in S. Paul's vestry--the latter, a member of Mr W. C. Young's committee. Mr. W. was pleased to express himself to Mr. Edwards much gratified by his interview with me, though he was angry with himself for it and said "that's the worst of having to deal with a gentleman"! Mr. Young at his meeting, warned the audience against me on this ground!!

Mr. Quick dined at the Parsonage and Towsey the organist came in. He plays the piano very well. I attended a Choir practice afterwards. The organ is a fine 2 manual instrument, by Telford--It is sadly out of order. The choir, of men and women, indifferent, but improvable.

Feb. 5