ON Easter Monday, April 1st, 1850, I commenced my Fourth Visitation, intending, if God permit, to pass through the Karroo to Colesberg, visiting the several towns and villages in my way; then to cross the Orange river, and travel through the country called the Sovereignty, inhabited by the native tribes, and the rebel Boers, who are again in a state of commotion, to Natal. In this Dependency I hope to remain some weeks, and return to the Colony through Faku's territory and British Kaffraria. I then propose visiting the whole of the Eastern Province, and returning home by the sea-coast.

This Visitation, if it please God to spare me to complete it, will probably occupy nearly nine months; but I trust I may be enabled to reach Capetown before Christmas. It would be presumptuous to reckon on a safe return after so long a journey, and I do not. I feel, however, that I am in the hands of a gracious Father. Let Him do with his servant as seemeth good unto Him. Only let this Visitation tend to the furtherance of his glory, and the advancement of his kingdom; I shall then be perfectly satisfied, whatever befals myself.

I started on horseback with----. The Rev. H. Douglas and Mr. Davidson accompanied me a little way. The Rev. H. M. White and the Rev. H. Badnall were in the cart. We rode across the flats to Stellenbosch. We had service there in the evening, and an excellent congregation. The Rev. P. Carlyon seems happy here, and I trust his work is prospering.

Easter Tuesday.--A wet day. It cleared up, however, a little, and we started again on horseback, after a meeting with the Civil Commissioner and some members of the municipality, about a site for a Church. We rode through the beautiful Ban-Hoek Pass and Drakenstein to Paarl, and got thoroughly wet. In our way we passed by a new missionary institution of a Mr. Stegman, of which the people in the neighbourhood did not speak well. At Paarl we held service again in the evening. I preached, and administered the Lord's Supper. The evening was very wet, and we had but a small congregation. The Rev. J. Inglis, whom I ordained Deacon a short time since, is, I trust, doing good. The English population is small, but Mr. Inglis is already talking about a Church. At present he officiates in the Government Schoolroom.

April 3d.--Rode, after breakfast, through Wellington to Mr. Bain's, who has the charge of the new road which is being made through the mountain pass, called after him, Bain's Kloof,--and of the convict gang who are employed in the work. He is a highly intelligent man, and takes a great interest in geology. He has a considerable collection of fossils, &c. from different parts of the Colony.

April 4th.--Rode up the pass, the scenery of which is beautiful, and the views very extensive. The road, which is nearly completed on one side, promises to be an excellent one. In one part of it there is a tunnel of about 330 yards, the first that has been made in South Africa. The whole of the work is done by convicts, of whom there are about 250. The Colony is indebted to Mr. Montagu for the admirable system adopted for the management of the convicts, and for the great public works which they have already executed. There being no navigable rivers in the country, it is dependent altogether upon the formation of good roads for the opening out of its resources. Mr. Montagu has already succeeded in carrying roads over some of the most difficult and important passes. The present road, which is nearly opposite to the Mitchel's Pass, opened last year, will, I believe, shorten the route to the interior by at least fifty miles.

At the top of the pass I parted with------, who, with Mr. Bain and his family, had accompanied us so far. Mr. White and I rode on to Tulbagh, where we arrived at seven o'clock, after a ride of nine hours. We took up our quarters at Mr. Shand's, the minister of the Dutch Church, who had kindly invited us to stay with him. We arranged that Mr. White should, upon his return, hold service on Monday next for the few English in the place.

April 5th.--Left Tulbagh at nine o'clock this morning; reached Worcester after dark. Mr. Le Sueur, the Civil Commissioner, has been good enough to invite me to remain with him during my visit to this place. My time here has been spent in seeing the people, writing letters, and holding Divine service. Our congregations have been very good, and many express their earnest desire to have an English Clergyman settled in Worcester. This I could not promise them, as my funds are entirely exhausted; but I assured them of my earnest desire to do so, if only I could obtain sufficient means for his support. Since I was last here, the inhabitants have themselves raised a subscription of 50l. a-year for this purpose. May God speedily enable me to provide for their wants! We had eight communicants; and I confirmed a young man--a convert from the Church of Rome--whom I was not able to confirm at my late visit.

We left Mr. Le Sueur's hospitable mansion at dawn of day this morning. I now travel with six horses, having been obliged to purchase two more. At Mitchel's Pass Mr. Piers, magistrate of Tulbagh, met me to show me the site of the proposed new village of Ceres, and to fix upon sites for Church, &c. At the foot of the pass Mr. White left me, and returned to Tulbagh with Dr. French, who had kindly come out in his cart for him. He is to hold service at Tulbagh this evening. I arrived somewhat late at Adrian Van Wyk's, a deacon of Mr. Shand's Church. I found here an English couple were very anxious to have their child baptized. After talking to them a little, they themselves proposed that I should have prayers. I consequently read and explained a portion of Scripture, and united with them in prayer. The man, who has a party of English labourers under him, employed in road-making, undertook to read some portion of the Morning Prayer and the Lessons every Sunday to the labourers.

Tuesday, April 9th.--Before starting this morning, offered prayers with Mr. Bird, who seemed thankful. Met the labourers on the road. All approved of my proposition about prayers on Sundays, and said they would attend. They were all members of the Church. I undertook to get Bibles and Prayer-books sent up to them. They live in tents, and are shortly about to move into the very heart of the Karroo, to make Mr. Montagu's new road across these desolate plains to Beaufort. We spent the night by the Patata river. During the day one of my horses appeared unwell. I gave him a dose of Battley's opium (intended for me in case of tic in my head) mixed with some wine, that Mr. Le Sueur had been kind enough to put up for me. I slept but little, partly from the uncomfortableness of my bed, and partly from anxiety for my poor sick horse, who was tethered at my feet to the cart.

Wednesday 10th.--Outspanned at a miserable farm of an intelligent Dutchman (De Villiers) who speaks English fluently. His wife is a sister of one of the Dutch ministers; and his little boy (the only instance I have met with) has set his heart upon becoming a "predikant." Our poor horse appeared better, so as to encourage us to proceed; but before we could arrive at water where we could out-span, he became so ill that we took him out of the cart. He then appeared evidently suffering from inflammation. I gave him more laudanum, but to no purpose: we staid by him till he died. I felt more on the occasion than I could have conceived, for when one has no other companions, a man soon becomes attached to his horses. While moralizing on the carcases of oxen that are strewed along the whole length of the road, I little thought that my poor horse would so soon be added to the number. However, his lot may be better than that of his companions, who have some months' hard work before them, and some thousands of miles to travel before they return home. I gave 20l. for him only a few days ago. We saw to-day a poor ox lying helpless by himself, left by his owner to die in the desert, being able to go no further. It was quite dark before we quitted our horse. As Ludwig could not see the road, I had to run before the cart for a mile or two, and point it out, and warn him of stones, rocks, and gullies. We arrived at a wretched hovel at Zoute Kloof, where an uncouth farmer, with his family, suffered us to outspan. I slept in my cart, and would have gladly cooked my own supper, as I have been lately doing from my own provisions; but I thought if; might give offence, so I partook of a very uncomfortable meal with them.

Thursday, 11th.--We see fewer spring-boles than in the Colesberg and Graaf Reinet Karroo, and no gnus or ostriches, though we observed traces of the latter. The country too is more hilly, and the Karroo narrower. Hitherto our route has been bounded by a low range of hills; they can scarcely be called mountains. To-day, however, we came in sight of the Zwart Mountains. Though there has evidently been much rain of late, as is proved by a spring of green grass here and there, the country is very dry, and it requires a sharp eye to find out the almost imperceptible streams or puddles which are denominated rivers. Outspanned at the Ghielbeck river, where we breakfasted, or rather dined off our stores, and where I was able to wash and shave: outspanned again at Groote Rivier. We slept at Bluid Rivier in the bed of a torrent. While settling myself here I remembered Judge Musgrave's warning never to do this. A thunder-storm fifty miles to the north might have the effect of changing the dry bed, covered with drift wood, into a foaming torrent, and wash us all away without more than a few minutes' notice. The Eight appeared very fine, and we could no where else get shelter for our horses from the wind, so we outspanned in a soft sandy place.

As an instance of the value of land in the Karroo, I may mention that a farmer told me that he rented 5,000 morgen (10,000 acres) of government for 1l. a-year.

Friday, 12th.--A dreary day's journey over barren, stony hills. There having been rain lately, we found water in most of the rivers. We passed the night at the Bitter-water river. On remarking upon the more than usual muddiness of the water, Ludwig observed, "It is just like milk."

Saturday, 13tt.--Still the same barren, dreary route, over stony hills. I was happy to get a bathe in a muddy pool in the Gamha River, caused by the late rains, which have evidently preceded us. We arrived at Beaufort at seven o'clock in the dark. I found Mr. Welby bad reached that place about an hour before me. He had been out nearly the whole week, and both he and his horses were knocked up by the ride.

Sunday, 14th.--We held Divine service in the government schoolroom. The congregation was about seventy both in the morning and evening. I confirmed five candidates, and we had four communicants. The numbers were small, but Mr. Maynard has only been a few weeks here, and these are the first-fruits of his ministry. I am thankful to hear all the parishioners speak very highly of him. He has made a most favourable impression. God grant His blessing to the work. I grieve to see symptoms of jealousy here, as elsewhere, and that attempts are made to prejudice the minds of some against the Church. This perhaps was only to have been expected, but it is painful. Mr. Welby preached in the morning. I addressed the candidates and preached in the evening.

Monday, 15th.--Writing before breakfast. Great part of this day was spent in receiving and paying visits. I met also the Church committee, and we settled finally the sites of the Church, parsonage, and burial-ground, concerning which there had been some little difference of opinion. I was particularly interested in one visit which I had paid to an aged widow lady, whom I remembered to have conversed with on my former Visitation, when she and her brother were the only communicants. She is a "widow indeed." Her Bible and her Prayer-book are her chief companions, and she is full of faith, and humility, and zeal. When last I was here she besought me more earnestly than any one else to send a Clergyman, telling me she had been thirty-six years in the Colony without seeing the face of a minister of her Church. Her earnest prayer has been daily offered up for a faithful pastor, and God has in mercy heard her prayer. She seemed full of gratitude and love, and sorrow that she could not do more for her Lord. It refreshed my spirit greatly to converse with her, and to see how God had, apart from outward means, thus trained and perfected a soul. Her great desire now is to see all her children, who, almost from necessity, have joined another communion, return to the bosom of their mother-church before she dies. Some have already done this. One I am to confirm (with a few others) before I leave; and others are hesitating, and will, I trust, by God's mercy, be led ere long to seek re-communion with the Church, which has not until now been a mother to them. We had Divine service in the evening. Congregation about seventy. Mr. Maynard preached. Two or three of the parishioners afterwards came to tea.

Tuesday, 16th.--After breakfast attended a public examination of the government school, which I thought in a satisfactory state. Afterwards called on several of the parishioners. At two o'clock a vestry was held for the election of churchwardens. To this succeeded a meeting to take steps for the immediate erection of a Church. A good spirit prevailed, and I trust that ere long it will be commenced. The meeting lasted some time, and I entered upon the subjects of missions--schools--and the support of the ministry, with reference to my pastoral letter. In the evening we held Divine service again, when I preached. There were three more candidates for confirmation, whom I addressed extempore. The day was ended with a party of the parishioners to tea.

Wednesday, 17th.--Started this morning a little after light. I rode with Mr. Welby, and his servant went in the cart. I leave this place with much comfort, and a good hope that the Church will take root there. Mr. Maynard has already impressed his parishioners very favourably, and he has an active assistant in his wife. Difficulties there doubtless are in his path, and jealousies exist there as in most other places; but amidst it all the work is prospering, and, if we prove faithful, it will prosper. We out-spanned at Rhinoster Kop, and slept at the farm of an Englishman, Mr. Martine, who received us very kindly.

Thursday, 18th.--A long day's journey through the Karroo. We were eleven hours in the saddle. I find that Kafirs and Fingos began to appear here as labouring servants at the farms. One farmer to-day had just engaged a Kafir as herd. He had 100 head of oxen, and 200 sheep, and these were to be maintained on the farm in lien of wages. There was a party of seven Kafirs on a neighbouring farm who also had a large stock. In fact, they are a kind of itinerating farmers. We passed the night at Camdeboo, at the foot of a very fine mountain. It was late before we arrived at a farm, which the farmers in this country do not like. They had had their supper. Nothing, however, could be kinder than they were. They soon prepared food for us, and gave up their beds to us. But neither of us slept the whole night, for very sufficient causes. We were off again about half-past four o'clock by starlight, and had a very long day to Graaf Heinet--not less than twelve hours. Our horses, however, seemed quite fresh. It is wonderful how these animals travel. We cannot have passed over less than sixty miles of very bad road to-day. We outspanned three times. Once only did we get a bundle of forage for each of them. At the other places they picked up what grass they could find. Luckily for them there had been very heavy rains lately. The ride to-day has been a beautiful one. The forms of the mountains are very inking. We found Mr. and Mrs. Long quite well, but not expecting us till to-morrow. They were, however, on the look-out for the archdeacon, who is corning up to meet me with his Kafir and English servants, and a horse carrying a tent. We walked out after tea to look at the new Church by moonlight. It is a very correct Early English building, though they have not been able to carry out exactly the plans which I sent them. It nevertheless is exceedingly well built, and is, I think, at present the best Church in the diocese.

Saturday, 20th.--A great portion of the day spent in receiving and paying visits. Long conversation with the churchwardens. The archdeacon not making his appearance, we walked out in the afternoon to look for him. We met him at some distance, coming on alone, with a bag over his shoulders, a bundle under his arm, and his staff in his hand. He had been delayed a day from the loss of his horse, which had either strayed or been stolen in the night. He therefore deposited his tent in a Kafir hut, sent his English servant home, and walked on with his Kafir man, who, as usual, had sore feet, and, being knocked up, was lagging behind. We returned in time for evening service, when we had a very good congregation. Mr. Welby preached; the archdeacon and I sat up till very late in conversation.

Sunday, 21st.--This day I held a Confirmation. There were fourteen candidates, amongst them the archdeacon's man Wilhelm, who is the first Kafir who has been thus received into the Church. He was very devout and attentive. May he be the first-fruits of an abundant harvest! There were about thirty communicants. The offerings were for the new Church. The archdeacon preached. I addressed the candidates. The schoolroom (was quite full. In the evening it was again crowded, when I preached. I had much conversation to-day with the archdeacon respecting the foundation of our mission in Kaffraria. I must endeavour, if I can, to take Graaf Reinet again, on my return from Kaffraria, and consecrate the Church.

Monday, 22nd.--We had at least thirty at morning prayers, and a large congregation in the evening, when Mr. Welby preached. The day was spent chiefly in conversation upon subjects relating to the Church, and in returning visits. We dined with Mr. Heugh, the churchwarden. Within the last few months a Romish priest, accompanied by three nuns, has arrived here. These latter have devoted themselves to the work of education, with, at present, but little success. The priest appears an indiscreet man, to say the least. He is a Belgian, and is full of the subject of modern Romish miracles, upon which he enlarges in the society of those who have no faith in them. In his sermons he is very vehement in his denunciations of Luther and Calvin. I have been much pleased with my visit to Graaf Reinet. Great interest seems to be taken in the work of the Church. The congregations have been excellent. Here, as everywhere, in spite of government schools, maintained at great expense, people are looking to us to supply them with education. Having been consulted about bringing out a teacher, I have expressed a readiness, to provide a deacon-schoolmaster upon the guarantee of an income of 100l. a-year. The schoolmaster will be curate to the minister of the parish, and assist him in his, duties. In course of time I trust, with the aid of schoolmasters, to be able to supply the outlying districts with at least occasional services. It is almost impossible for farmers, living at a distance of twenty or thirty miles from Church, to come in frequently for the Sunday services. The inability to leave their farms for any length of time without servants upon whom they can depend (for the coloured servants cannot be relied on), together with the expense, prevents many families from attending. One gentleman in this parish is very anxious to erect a small oratory for his own and the neighbouring farms. I shall be glad to see these springing up in different parts of the and trust that by combining education with the of the Church, we may ere long be able to do more than we can at present for the country districts.

Wednesday, 24th.--My journey to Richmond has occupied two days. The first day's journey lay through the Sneewberg, on the road to Beaufort, which I travelled in my last Visitation. The weather has become quite cold, but we are on very high ground. On arriving at the village, I found an empty house prepared for my reception. Many of the Dutch farmers have built small houses for themselves, which they occupy during the "nacht-maal" (communion), and occasionally when they come in on a Sunday. They have in fact their town-house and their country-house, just as our forefathers had in the county towns in England. Upon my arrival, Mr. Hope, the Civil Commissioner, came to call upon me, and very hospitably entertained me during my stay. I went with him to call upon Mr. Beranger, the Dutch minister, who kindly placed his Church at my disposal, and gave orders to have it lighted for evening service.

I had scarcely time to take a look round the village, mid partake of Mr. Hope's dinner before Church time. There was a very good congregation. I understood that all the English and many of the Dutch inhabitants were there. It was the first time that the prayers of the Church of England had ever been offered in the village--the first time that a minister of that Church had ever set foot in it. Moreover, there is not now, nor has there ever been, I believe, a religious teacher of any English sect in the place. I was pained to find how little acquaintance the English seemed to have with the Liturgy. None knelt,--none even stood,--all sat motionless, even while singing the 100th Psalm. One or two voices indeed were wised up to repeat the responses, but even they did it irregularly, and not at all during the reading of the Psalms. I must do the poor people the justice to say that they felt and lamented this, and pressed me earnestly to send them dome Prayer-books. I preached to them partly extempore, and invited all who desired my counsel and advice to visit me at my lodging in the morning. Several came,--one brought up an Unitarian, whose family had turned Romanists, desired to be confirmed in the English Church, and, if needful, to be baptized. He was an educated man, and I promised to send him some books, and to make arrangements for his reception into the Church. Others came to state their conviction that they were falling away from God, and their sorrow for it,--others to express their desire to live nearer to God, and their inability to do so, and to complain of their destitute spiritual condition. One undertook to call the English together, and endeavour to make arrangements for the erection of a Church-school. I told him that I would give 20l. towards it, if a suitable building were erected, and made over to the Church, I also promised to endeavour to get a teacher who should hold Divine service in the schoolroom; but told him it was very uncertain whether I should be able to afford to send one, as my means were at present quite exhausted. This is just the place for a steady, earnest, deacon-schoolmaster. I must endeavour, if possible, to obtain one. May the Lord provide! I fear that many of the English, circumstanced as these poor people are, very rapidly fall away, The absence of a minister of the Church, and of almost every restraint to which at home they were accustomed, is generally too much for them.

The high wages and the cheap wine and brandy lead to much intoxication. One man, who told me he was in the receipt of 2l. a-week, actually came to beg of me. I left the place with very painful and melancholy feelings. At the next circuit court at Graaf Reinet, seven Africanders resident in. this village are to be tried for forcibly carrying off from the custody of the magistrate some Kafirs who had offended them, and for other deeds of violence. A Kafir in a state of intoxication tumbled, as I understand, against a child. A scuffle ensued between the Africanders and the Kafir and his companions. The Kafirs were taken into custody, and committed to prison for ten days. The Africanders did not think the punishment sufficiently heavy: they therefore seized the prisoners in defiance of the law, carried them away, and beat them. They afterwards went in a body, and armed, to the Kafir location, and drove them all away, shooting at several of them as they ran off, but killing none. None of these men have since returned. It seems very doubtful whether a jury can be found which will return, be the evidence ever so dear, a verdict of guilty on such an occasion. [The parties were all acquitted.] I left Richmond for Colesberg at one o'clock, having employed my whole morning in conversing with the people who came to see me. We slept at a Mr. Ackerman's, who has a property of 60,000 acres in the Karroo. I could not induce Mm to accept of any payment either for myself or my horses. One occasionally meets with genuine hospitality of this kind, though in only one other instance has a farmer refused to be paid. On no one occasion, while travelling through the Colony, have I ever been refused admittance into the Boers' houses. At most places they expect only to be paid for the forage, and are not unfrequently surprised at receiving payment for board and lodging. I should always, however, if it were not for my horses and man, prefer the open veldt to a farm-house. One is more independent, one can sit down to write, (a matter of great importance to me, followed as I am from place to place with large packets of letters.) The necessity of talking to the people without having anything but a smattering of the language is very wearisome. If my dear friend the archdeacon, while performing his pedestrian visitations, is sometimes shown to the door, and refused a morsel of meat, and told as a favour he may lie in an outhouse, it is, I believe, in consequence of their suspicions of Mm, and not from any desire to be inhospitable. They cannot believe that a predikant would walk. They never knew or heard of such a thing, and take him for an impostor--a discharged soldier--a convict. It is in vain to tell them that our Lord and Master and his holy apostles walked. It may have been so. But they know that predikants don't walk.

Our second night was passed near a mud house about three hours from Colesberg. The building not looking very tempting, I passed the night in the cart. The country from Richmond to Colesberg is like the rest of the Karroo, dreary, dry, and monotonous. Up till to-day we have seen very little game. This afternoon, however, we came across immense herds of spring-bok, and several quaggas and wilde-beestes. The country was as well stocked as an English gentleman's park. We still continue to ascend, and have been coming up hill ever since leaving Worcester. We arrived in Colesberg a little after ten o'clock. After getting thoroughly washed, and having partaken of some breakfast, I went to look at the Church, which is about breast-high. The plan which I gave has been followed more accurately than I could have expected, and the building will be respectable. I could have wished, indeed, that it had been all of stone, instead of brick plastered, but the great expense of working stone, and the scanty means of the small English community, precluded the idea. Soon after my arrival, one of the deacons of the Dutch Church came to inform me that some of the elders of that Church, farmers in the country, objected to my using the Dutch Church for service tomorrow, and to consult me as to what was to be done. It had been offered by the minister and accepted by Dr. Orpen; some few of the parishioners, however, found fault with their minister for lending it, though the great majority were, I believe, quite willing. Of course, I declined using it, and regretted exceedingly that my visit to the place should in any way be a source of discord between the minister and his people. I afterwards called on Mr. Reed to thank him for his kindness, and to say that I would officiate in the court-house. I believe their objections arose partly from the bad spirit which is afloat with regard to the English, in consequence of the anti-convict agitation, partly from the close connexion of many of these farmers with the rebel Boers over the Orange river, whose spirit they Lave in some measure imbibed, and partly from their confounding our Church with the Roman communion, in consequence of its episcopacy. The Dutch generally throughout the Colony entertain strong feelings of antipathy against the Romanists, and have a great dread of them. They for the most part know nothing of the Romish faith, and are themselves so credulous and ignorant, that they would fall easy victims to that Church's teaching, were it. not for their wholesome fear of it. The recent arrival of several Romish priests has added to their alarm. The Romish Bishop is, I understand, to be here next Sunday.

We held our service in the court-house, where Dr. Open officiates until the Church shall be built. The congregation was about seventy in the morning, and quite filled the room; the communicants were twenty. Eight candidates presented themselves for confirmation. The collections at the Offertory were devoted to the new Church. In the evening I preached again, on love,--charity,--thinking it a suitable subject under present circumstances.

Monday, 29th.--Called on some of the parishioners. Attended a meeting of the Church committee. Had much conversation with Dr. Orpen respecting the work of the ministry in the parish. In the evening again we held Divine service, when I preached. The court-house was quite full.

30th.--Left Colesberg this morning at 8 o'clock for Bloemfontein. The first house in the Sovereignty belongs to an English farmer, where we outspanned. Slept at Philipolis, the capital of Adam Kok's territory. Mr. and Mrs. Van der Scholk (of the London Missionary Society) received me very kindly. In the evening I called upon Captain Adam Kok, who is the chief of a portion of the Griquas. He is a very common-place looking man,--a Christian, and, I believe, a sincere one. He does not appear to have much authority over his people. His country forms part of the Sovereignty, but he governs it under British protection. Any Europeans, however, that may be living in his territory are under British rule and he has no authority over them. At this present time I understand that he and other chiefs are much dissatisfied with the government regulations respecting land. Several Dutch Boers hold farms under him upon lease, the payment, I imagine, being nearly nominal. At the expiration of the leases, government requires the Griquas to pay the tenants for the improvements made upon the farms by the erection of buildings, &c., or to lose the land altogether. This they feel to be oppressive, and assert, with I know not what truth, that nothing was said about such payment in the original agreements. Philipolis is a tolerable sized village, and has its chapel and school. The Missionary speaks with much interest of his work, and says, that very many of the people are sincere Christians. He has received upwards of 100l. from them this year, as their contribution towards the London. Missionary Society. He thinks also that the Griquas are advancing in civilization and industry, Some with whom I conversed on the subject at Colesberg think differently. The country is fertile, with abundance of springs. The farms (if you may call them so) appear very poor and miserable. I did not see a single patch of ground under cultivation, though I am told there is a good deal. Adam Kok has a pension of 300l. a-year from the British Government. There is a rumour here to-day that Moshesh's brother has attacked the Boers.

May 1st.--Started by daylight. The road from here to Bloem-fontein is as good generally as a road in England, though the hand of man has not been employed upon it. The country throughout consists of large plains bounded by low mountains or rocky koppies. There is abundance of game--the gnu, bless-bok, and spring-bok. There are also a great many of the beautiful cranes of the country, and some fine eagles. We found no forage at any of the places we stopped at, but there is abundance of grass. We stayed for a short time at Mr. Wright's farm at Boom-plaats and I surveyed the field of Sir H. Smith's late battle with the Boers. The rebels were posted behind some strong koppies; but retreated speedily from one to the other, till their retreat became a rout. I visited the craves of our brave officers and soldiers, who are buried in flailed enclosure in the middle of Mr. Wright's garden. Hearing that they had been buried without any religious service, I read our office for the burial of the dead over their remains. I did so because it was a satisfaction to myself to do it, and because I thought that it might be some consolation to surviving friends and relatives. I should have remained here for the night if I could have obtained forage, But hearing that there was some at the next farm, we pushed on, but did not arrive till after it was dark. Our reception was at first not very cordial; and I mention the circumstance because it illustrates both the bad and the good side of the Dutch Boer's character, and is perhaps indicative of the state of feeling of these enterprising but self-outlawed men towards the English government and people. We asked if we might outspan for the night. The farmer replied, "Yes, but that I must sleep in my eat, for he had no room." I then asked if he had forage. "No, he had none." "Was there much grass?" "No, the locusts had eaten it, and there was scarce any." Would he sell half a bushel of wheat, for the horses were very hungry, and even a little would prevent them from straying during the night?" "No, he had scarce enough for himself." I went in with him to his house, and sat down and I talked. After a little while his heart began to soften, and when he saw that I was still anxious about the horse?, he ordered his son to fetch a sack of oats, and measured out early a muid, so that our poor animals had abundance. He made me however pay, as I was quite willing to do, an exorbitant price. Afterwards we went in to supper, and ere very friendly, and in the morning he helped us to inspan, and gave us our cup of coffee. I should have mentioned that at first he tried hard to induce us to go on to the next farm, where he said there was forage. This however was impossible. It was so dark that I had been obliged for some time to go before the horses to point out the path, and it was beginning to thunder and lighten around us in every direction. Seeing the night was likely to turn out a bad one, they invited Ludwig to sleep in the house. After a very good night in my cart, we proceeded on our way, and arrived at Bethany about half-past nine. This is a station of the Berlin Missionary Society for the Coranna people, who, I believe, are the same race as the Hottentot. The missionaries received me not only very kindly, but with evident respect for my office. The Mission at, present is only just recovering from the effects of the late war. During the disturbances of the Boers, the whole of the people under instruction were dispersed. Many have never returned. The present number of inhabitants in the village is about 500. These consist of several tribes, Corannas, Bechuanas, Bastards, and Bushmen. The school consists of about 100. There were not more than fifty present to-day. It had been intended to be a holiday, the teacher having gone out with the Government Surveyor, to mark the boundaries of the land belonging to the Mission, upon which the farmers were encroaching (the extent of which they told me was, according to Adam Kok's original grant, an hour's ride in every direction from the Mission premises). The children repeated the Lord's Prayer in Dutch, and sang very prettily. They did not appear to know much, or to show great intelligence. But what is to be expected from a mixed race so drawn together, after little more than a year's training? The Missionaries of the Berlin Society are, I believe, all strict Lutherans. They adhere to the Augsburg Confession, and to the Lutheran views of the sacraments. They complained to me of the very unsound views generally taught by English dissenting missionaries, with reference to the sacrament of Baptism, "which," they said, "being spoken of generally as only a sign or mark, the coloured people confounded it with the signs or marks made upon their cattle, and did not esteem it in any higher light than this." They spoke of the evils already resulting, and likely to do so to a much greater extent, as the coloured people become more educated, from the variety of sects and societies which exist in Southern Africa. This is a subject which it is impossible for any thoughtful mind to ponder, without many anxious forebodings. Christianity is, I believe, presented to South Africa under twenty distinct forms and associations. What, fifty years hence, will be the result?

We passed the night near a half-ruined farm, where I found an Englishman with his wife and family. I was happy to have the opportunity of uniting with them, in this spiritual desert, in prayer. They were members of the Church of England, and seemed respectable people. He had lost all his savings, first by the Kafir war, and then again, a second time, by the Boers, who, upon the breaking out of the late rebellion, had robbed him, as an Englishman, of everything, even of his Bible and Prayer-book. There are a great many lions and wolves in this neighbourhood. One of the latter came prowling about us very early in the morning. We started before daylight, and after outspanning at a very kind and obliging Dutch farmer's, arrived at Bloem-fontein about eleven o'clock. A party of gentlemen rode or drove out to meet me. My morning was spent in receiving visitors. At three o'clock a deputation from the military and civilians waited on me, and presented an address expressive of their satisfaction at my arrival amongst them, and their hope that it might lead to the establishment of a Church and Clergyman in this Tillage. They placed also in my hands a list of subscriptions towards a Church, amounting to 200l. and stated that they expected to raise 300l. We had some interesting conversation. I informed them that hearing of their zeal and exertions while at Colesberg, I had written from that place to my Commissary, requesting him to send out a Clergyman especially for them, for that I regarded the effort they were making as a Providential opening, and did not feel at liberty to hold back, while God seemed to be beckoning on. I told them, however, that all my funds were exhausted, and that I had no means of supporting an additional Minister; that I had applied without success to the High Commissioner for a stipend towards a Clergyman; and that, therefore, if one were to be permanently maintained here, it must be chiefly through their own offerings. I did not press them to enter into any engagements at the present time; but I wished the members of the Church at the very outset clearly to understand how I was circumstanced. After this interview I walked over the village with Major Warden, the British resident, who had kindly invited me to stay at his house during my visit. About five I met the Church Building Committee, and we decided upon sites for Church, Burial-ground, Parsonage, School, and upon the erection of a Church to hold 200, for which I undertook to furnish plans. Major Warden promised to bring the subject under the notice of the High Commissioner, with a view to obtain from him the like assistance which has been granted towards the erection of the Dutch Church. I own I feel that an equal measure of favour has not hitherto been shown to our Church. There are two Dutch ministers already appointed, each with a salary of 250l. Could more ministers be found, they would, I understand, receive similar appointments. In the capital and only village in the Sovereignty, the population is nearly exclusively English. 1,400l. has already been paid to Government for erven;--nine-tenths of this, Major Warden informs me, are from Englishmen. Out of this sum 500l. have been given to the Church and school, the Church (Dutch) receiving 320l. the school 180l. The whole amount of subscriptions to the Dutch Church is 3,000 dollars (225l.) Hitherto we have got nothing for our church, and I have been refused 100l. a-year towards a Clergyman's stipend, although there are 250 of our troops here besides the civilians. At Smithfield, I understand, the whole fund arising from the sale of erven is promised to the Dutch Church; at Harrismith, one-half; at Winburg, I believe, two-thirds. The great bulk of the population in these villages will probably be English. Bloemfontein is rapidly rising in importance. A press is coming up, and a newspaper is about to be started. The Romish Bishop is soon to visit it, with a view, I understand, to fix a priest there, and the Methodists have decided upon planting a station in the village. Everything is of course in a very rough state. There is nothing remarkable in the situation of the village; it is defended by a rude fort, mounted with four guns. In the evening I met Dr. Frazer and Mr. Murray, the zealous young Dutch minister, at dinner. He was placed here, I believe, when little more than twenty-one years of age, and has had a very difficult post to fill, which he has done with great zeal and discretion.

Saturday, May 4th.--The greater part of this day has been occupied in preparing candidates for Confirmation, and in other spiritual works. Several of the officers and the Civil Commissioners dined with Major Warden in the evening.

Sunday, 5th.--I began this day's services with a marriage. At ten o'clock we had morning prayers and a Sermon for the troops in an open shed. Some of the civilians attended, and there was an excellent congregation. Immediately after this, I consecrated the military burial-ground, which has been very neatly walled in, and which already contains forty bodies. At half-past one, we had afternoon service in the schoolhouse. The room was crowded, and the congregation consisted nearly exclusively of English. Three children were baptized after the second lesson; four candidates were confirmed, whom I addressed at some length; ten communicated; our collection at the Offertory was for the new Church, and amounted to 15l. As I preached again, the service lasted nearly three hours, and we encroached upon the time appointed for the Dutch service. There was not room in the building for many of the Dutch people, but they crowded round the doors "and windows throughout the whole time. It happens to be the Sunday appointed for their "aanneming," or confirmation, which is without imposition of hands. I counted nearly fifty wagons in the outskirts of the village.

Monday, 6th.--A busy morning. Employed in writing letters on business, &c. I shall probably have no opportunity of writing again for a month. Afterwards called upon the members of the Church residing in the village. Dined with the officers.

Tuesday, 7th.--Started this morning on horseback for Thaba-Umchu, the kraal, or rather town, of the chief Marokko, accompanied by two Cape Corps orderlies, who are to be my guides through the country in my visits to one or two Missionary stations. Mr. Murray, the Minister of the Dutch Church, rode with me part of the way, and several English came out for about a mile on the road to take leave. I had also the honour of a salute from the guns of the fort on my departure, though when I heard of this compliment being about to be paid, I begged to decline it. After a ride of forty-five miles we arrived at Thaba-Umchu, which is a singular-looking native town of considerable size. There are, I believe, about 2,000 houses, and the population is about 8,000. Each house is surrounded by a low stone wall, making a kind of court. The houses are round, built of clay, and thatched. I went into one which had a sort of inner room, in which in cold weather the inmates sleep. The inhabitants are Bechuanas of the Barolong tribe. They are very rich in cattle: some private individuals have, I understand, 1,000 head of cattle, and 100 horses. Indeed, the whole country for some miles round seemed covered with cattle. There are not more than 150 Christians. The school has about 60 scholars. The chapel is a very poor one; another is about to be built. This tribe practises circumcision. Polygamy is very common. The men sew, and make caresses; the women do all the hard work, build the houses, cultivate the ground! &c. The chief is not a Christian, but is much under the influence of the Missionary, Mr. Cameron, of the Wesleyan Society, with whom I took up my quarters, and who was very hospitable. The Heathen are always glad, for political reasons, to have a Missionary residing at their kraal, I went to see the chief Marokko: he was sitting with his counsellors over a fire, in the council chamber, which was a mere open court surrounded by a fence. They were discussing the subject of the meeting to be held in a day or two, with some other chiefs and the British resident. He seemed glad to see me, and shook hands very heartily. Every petty chief who can get together a party of followers is entitled to be of the council. There are a great many of these in this large town. Each of them appears to have from ten to fifteen huts about him. I sat up till late with Mr. Cameron, talking over Missions, the Church, and Wesleyanism, and afterwards passed an excellent night on his sofa. I fear Marokko's people have not yet advanced far in civilization. The greater number of them still wear nothing but the carosse. They appear very indolent. How these 8,000 people employ themselves is marvellous. Some of them, indeed, are engaged in tending their flocks. A small proportion cultivate patches of ground in which Kafir com is sown; but the great majority seem to have nothing to do, and to do nothing. I understand they purchase a great part of the grain which they consume from other tribes, giving cattle in exchange. There seems an abundance of land capable of growing wheat. I did not see a single garden, except the Missionary's, in the whole place. One native Christian has built a stone house, in imitation of the English. These people, in personal appearance, manner, and bearing, are far inferior to the Kafirs. The country has a very bare appearance, having no trees, and scarce a single bush. It is covered with a close grass, which is well cropped by the numerous herds.

Wednesday, 8th.--I put down here while I have a little leisure (not often the case), during which my horses are browsing midway between Thaba-Umchu and Macquatlin, (Molitzani's kraal,) some few circumstances relating to this distant country. The Vaal river is now the boundary which separates the Sovereignty from the Boers, who refuse to recognise British authority. These men have formed themselves into a Republic, and have their "Raad" (Council): the exact constitution, however, of their government they have not fixed, though they have had many meetings. I understand that they are about 10,000 in number. Their feelings are very bitter against the English Government. Some regard that Government as Antichrist; some the Queen in person. They took Dr. Frayer of Bloemfontein a prisoner not long since for presuming to cross the Vaal river while hunting, haying no permission from them to enter into their territory. It appears quite clear, I think, that they have amongst them at least a modified form of slavery. Several people in Bloemfontein, including, I think, both the Resident and Civil Commissioners, informed me that it was not uncommon for them to purchase a child for a heifer. Young Mr. Murray admitted that this was occasionally the case. The greater number of these people are very anxious for a predikant and a Church, and they have pledged themselves to a sum of, I believe, 270l. a-year. They are desirous of giving a call to Mr. Murray, who, on his part, would be quite willing to go, if he could see a prospect of his place of Bloemfontein being supplied; but the Dutch Church seems quite incapable of providing a sufficient body of Ministers for its own increasing wants, although there is no difficulty about stipend. I understand that at this moment there are not less than twelve vacant parishes.

To return, however, to the Boers: some few of these refuse to receive Mr. Murray's ministrations, in consequence of his connexion with the British Government. They will not (on religious grounds and scruples) allow him to baptize or marry, although of course great evils are daily arising from their inability to partake of these ordinances from any other quarter. There is a party also of Boers who think they are on their way to Jerusalem, and that they are not very far distant from it. They are deceived by the apparent nearness of Egypt in some of the maps in their old Bibles. There are some symptoms of a growing fanaticism amongst these poor people. The Dutch Boer, wherever he may be, and under whatever circumstances, never casts off his respect for religion. There is nothing sceptical in his mind. Perhaps ho lacks the energy and mental activity which generally lead to infidelity where the means of grace are wanting. His religion, however, is traditionary. It exercises no very great influence over him. He is very superstitious, and would offer just a field for the Romanist to exercise his ministry upon, were it not for the extreme dread, terror, and dislike, with which he regards Popery.

We rode to-day a distance of about forty miles a fine grassy country to Makquatlin, the village of the chief Molitzani. There were neither bushes nor trees to be seen the whole day; but the hills became higher and more picturesque, as we approached the village. We saw one village of Marokko's people at a distance, and met with a great many cattle. There was scarce any game to be seen. Makquatlin is beautifully situated at the foot of a semicircular mountain. The appearance of it was very pleasing as we approached. The sun was setting full upon it, and everything looked cheerful. The houses indeed of the natives, who are of the Bastuto tribes and the Bechuana race, are inferior to Marokko's. They are built entirely of reed or grass, like the Kafirs' and Fingoes', but they have a very small court of reed, generally in front. Altogether they do not look nearly so comfortable as Marokko's houses. The village is much smaller than Thaba-Umchu, and contains perhaps about 1,200 souls. There appeared, however, a much larger tract of country under cultivation than at that place, which, considering the disproportion of the population, is very striking, and speaks much for the industry of these people. Indeed, I am told, that they grow more grain (which is always Indian, or Kafir corn) than is required for their own consumption, and that Marokko's people purchase of them. The chapel here is a neat brick building erected by the natives, who have also just finished a school. The Mission-house has an excellent garden is. front of it. Mr. and Mrs. Daumas (of the Paris Missionary Society) received me very kindly. The hearing them converse in French with their little family brought home (for Europe seems like home) vividly before me. I had much interesting conversation with him during the course of the evening. His converts are about 100. His school consists of about 100. In their natural state these Heathen believe in the existence of gods; they regard their ancestors as gods, and sacrifice to them occasionally a goat or an ox. They believe in the immortality of the soul. He told me of some facts which induce him to think that some of the tribes believe in the transmigration of souls. In the evening, after tea, I walked out with Mr. Danmas into the village. He took me to see some of the native Christian houses. These are built after the European fashion, and there is an effort at neatness. Several of them have nice gardens, walled in, and abounding in fruit-trees, walnut, plum, lemon, and orange, which Mr. Daumas has introduced. They are beginning also to plant trees before their houses. I conversed with some of the Christians. As far as I am able to judge, they appear to be sincere. I went to call upon Molitzani, but met him with one or two companions walking through the village wrapped in his carosse. I told him "I would not pass through his country without calling upon him, for he was one of the powers that be, which we Christians believe are ordained of God." I had some little conversation with him about Christianity. He has just been suffering greatly from war with the neighbouring chief, Sinkoneyalla, who burnt down, a few months since, the village in which he lived, distant about a mile from the present one. The effect of this war has been very unfavourable to the Mission work. It has unsettled the minds even of the best of the people. It has brutalized many, and has stopped all improvement. The Missionary and his wife spoke with great pain of this. One striking thing occurred during the war. Molitzani with his warriors was compelled to fly from his village and country. The Missionary remained. Molitzani and his people sent their wives and children, property, &c. to the Mission station, fully assured they would be safe there. The chapel and the house were, upon Sinkoneyalla's approach, filled with aged women and children. Sinkoneyalla respected the sanctuary. He sent word to the Missionary that he knew he was a servant of God, and that he wished for peace and not war. Not a thing or person was touched, although the village about a mile off was burnt to the ground. [Since writing the above nearly eight months ago, Molitzani, having attacked a neighbouring Mission station, was called to account for it by the British Resident. As he refused to give satisfaction and to pay the fine imposed, a body of troops from Bloemfontein was marched against him, and Marokko invited to join them in chastising him. He was attacked and defeated, and a large number of cattle taken from him, a portion of which were given to Marokko. Soon after Marokko's return home he was attacked by Moshesh, the most powerful chief in the Sovereignty, and 4,000 head of cattle were taken from him. We have insisted on Moshesh restoring these and giving satisfaction. Up to this time he has not done so: and, at this stage of affairs, war has broken out with the Kaffirs. Any attempt now to punish Moshesh would add greatly to the dangers to which the Colony is exposed.]

On my ride next morning to Merimitzo, at which place Major Warden had appointed to meet the chiefs Marokko, Molitzani, and Sinkoneyalla, to settle disputes arising out of the war, I passed through a country which a few months ago was full of life, but is now a desert. We passed, I think, not less than, half-a-dozen deserted kraals, and did not see a single living being, or a single head of cattle, or, indeed, any game. All was desolate. The inhabitants, through fear of Sinkoneyalla, had forsaken their country, and had not yet dared to return. We witnessed on a small scale the fearful ravages of war. Mr. Daumas pointed out to me one kraal, the head man of which was an aged brother of Molitzani's. When the people under him fled, he chose to remain, because the Corannas under the chief Gert Taibosch had assured him, that, being an old man, he would not be interfered with. Sinkoneyalla, however, murdered him in cold blood. He showed me another spot near which we passed, where a son of Molitzani's was killed with a few followers. It appears that though Molitzani had every reason to expect an attack from Sinkoneyalla, he made no preparation against it. Consequently, when news was brought that the enemy was approaching, all were in bed. Their horses had to be caught, and their arms prepared. Molitzani's son put himself at the head of about eighteen followers, and, against the entreaties of his father, went out to meet 800 horsemen. Not one of his party, I believe, returned to the village. On this occasion, the Corannas, under Gert Taibosch, joined with Sinkoneyalla as allies. The war being at an end, they in their turn, being but a small tribe of about 300 men, have fled out of the country, fearing the revenge of Molitzani. They have trekked beyond the Boers to Jan Bloom's country, who is also a Coranna chief; but many of his cattle, probably stolen from Molitzani, having died, Major Warden hears he wishes to come back again and resume his territory. The Corannas are said to be a remnant of the old gottentots, and they say that their forefathers lived near the Cape. Having been long accustomed to the use of fire-arms, which the other tribes in the neighbourhood are as yet novices in, they are formidable enemies. When we arrived at Gert Taibosch's village of Merimitzo, I was surprised to find such slight remains of a tribe having dwelt there. There were only the ruins of one or two huts. There was a Wesleyan Mission to this tribe. The premises were still standing, though somewhat ruined. All the windows of the dwelling-house, in which a table and a Bedstead still remained, were broken. The out-buildings were in a state of dilapidation. The same room was used here both for school and chapel--a very unfortunate and improper arrangement, I think; for surely, if we come to teach the heathen that there is a God, and that they must reverence and worship Him, we should be careful to distinguish God's house, and make them feel the sacredness thereof. Mr. Daumas spoke to me of this, and of the importance of attending to these things. In the present case, the chapel was the most shabby building on the station, and its broken and defaced pulpit, with the whole scene around, filled me with melancholy reflections. We arrived r nearly an hour before Major Warden. Shortly after he joined us, Molitzani, with a considerable number of followers came up. He had exchanged his dirty though picturesque carosse, in which I had seen him the night before, for a white hat, a long drab coat, such as our farmers wear, and corduroy trowsers. Many of his followers had imitated him; others were still in their ordinary dresses; they all looked very common-place. After waiting some time, in hopes that Marokko and Sinkoneyalla would appear, I was obliged to take my leave, as I was anxious to join my cart, which was distant about two hours from the place of meeting, meaning, if possible, to push on a few miles on my road before night-fall. Major Warden accordingly ordered two of the Cape Corps to accompany me as guides, one of whom said he knew the way; and Molitzani called one of his people out of the crowd, who was said to be acquainted with the country. After receiving full instructions we started, and rode hard for between three and four hours, when we came to a road, and all admitted they knew not which way to go. After directing the man to off saddle, I mounted the highest hill in the neighbourhood, to take a view of the country. Nothing was to be seen but one dreary waste. I found, however, on the top of the mountain, a very extensive deserted stone kraal or village, which had evidently being fixed upon that exposed spot for purposes of defence. I could not learn to whom it belonged. At present Sinkoneyalla is the only chief who avails himself of the natural resources of the country for purposes of defence. He lives, I understand, upon the top of a mountain, to which there is but one approach. By the time I had descended, it was getting dark. As our horses were knocked up, I thought it better to spend the night in the kraal, which would prove some shelter to us. Happily, the soldiers did not approve of my counsel. We started, therefore, on foot, one of the orderlies being so stiff that he could not mount his horse. He soon, however, grew weary of walking, and, with my help, managed to get into his saddle. I walked on alone. At one time, being somewhat in advance of the others, I was tracked by some wild animal, which, however, did not venture to interfere with me. Several more were howling round about. In about an hour and a half's time one of the soldiers descried a light in the distance, and another half-hour brought us to a farm close by Winburg, where the owner received us kindly.

In such a country as this, where you may travel for days without seeing a house or meeting a person, it is a serious patter to lose one's way, especially if unprovided, as I was, with food. I did not, however, feel the least uneasy, knowing that I was in the hands of a gracious Father, who had brought me through greater difficulties than the present. It was while I was in the act of offering up the Lord's Prayer, under a very strong sense of the presence of God, that the man cried out he saw a light. We got some supper here, and forage for our horses, and I passed a very tolerable night in a wagon, standing by the house. My men also found shelter, and well it was they did, for it rained nearly the whole night. A farmer's house in this part of the country seldom has more than one room, and that without door or window-frame. In this room the whole family, and frequently strangers, sleep. This would be still more inconvenient and objectionable than it is, were it the custom to undress at night; but this is not the case. I understand it is thought sufficient to do this once a-week.

Next morning we started in the rain for Geldenhuis farm, where my cart was, and reached it about eight o'clock, having gone about twenty-five miles out of our way. After washing and dressing, I started in my cart, right glad to find myself once more in it. After travelling about two hours, we came precisely to the same spot, where I had discovered that we had lost our way, just twenty hours before. This day's journey was through a fine grass country, abounding in game. There were no trees nor bushes, but low mountains of a picturesque appearance, chiefly on our right hand. We arrived at night at an encampment of Boers, who were trekking over the Vaal river, with their flocks and herds, near to which was; the wretched hovel of a farmer, who spoke very bitterly against the British Government. They gave us, however, some spring-bok for supper. The night was so cold that I could scarce sleep at all. We were off early again, our poor horses, which have had nothing but the dry grass of the country for the last two days, looking very disconsolate,: This evening we were to have arrived at Mr. Bester's, a Dutch farmer, who was implicated in the late rebellion, but whom the Governor, wishing to conciliate the Boers, appointed magistrate of Harrismith. We were, however unable to reach his house, and therefore outspanned in the veldt. Being a cold night, and somewhat fearing lest our horses should be attacked by lions, which abound in this, part of the country, we set fire to the grass, both for warmth and to frighten away wild beasts. I had intended to spend the next day, being Sunday, quietly at Mr. Bester's; but I was compelled to proceed on my journey, there being no water for the horses where we were. Mr. Bester's house lying out of the road, we missed it, and arrived about eleven o'clock at a Hottentot's house, whose name is Old Isaak. Here I determined to spend the Sunday. I found one or two English traders there, as well as several Dutch farmers. After enjoying the luxury of a thorough washing, and having had some breakfast, I collected together the few people that were about the place, and held divine service, preaching to them extempore. I had scarcely finished, and was yet talking to the people, when my dear friend and companion in my former visitation, the Rev. J. Green of Maritzburgh, Natal, stood before me, He had ridden six days to meet me, accompanied by a son; of Mr. Moodie, Secretary to Government at Natal. His intention was to have waited for me at Harrismith; hut he passed it in the dusk on Saturday, and finding himself late last night, half way to this place, came on here. I was delighted to meet him again, and we had, of course, much interesting conversation. Neither of us had much rest that night. There was a party of coloured people who spent most of the night in playing the fiddle and dancing. The dogs--the ducks--the horses--the oxen, kept running about, uttering their various and discordant cries throughout the night. We were off by daylight the next morning. The nature of the country was still the same, but the features of it more striking. As we approached Harrismith, we caught views of some fine-shaped mountains. We out-spanned for the night by the Wilge (or Willow) River, which, like the Elands, had the appearance of a real, though small river, which is not the case with most of the so-called rivers in South Africa. Mr. Green rode on with Mr. Moodie to Harrismith, intending to spend the night there, and recover a horse, which, being knocked up, he had sent there. Shortly after he had left us, I discovered that either he or I was in the wrong road. Believing that he was in the road to Maritzburg, instead of to Harrismith, I became very uneasy about him, and sent Ludwig out to fire signal guns. Some time after his return from a fruitless effort to recall him, I went out and fired also, and hallooed for some time, but could hear nothing of him. I returned therefore to my cart, feeling assured that he must spend the night, which was dark, cold, and wet, in the veldt. I had scarce, however, made ready my hammock, and wrapped myself up in my carosse, before Ludwig heard the horses' tramp, and in a few minutes I welcomed them back with joy. After giving them some cold ham and biscuits, we endeavoured to sleep, being very weary, and passed a better night than could have been expected, sitting up in the cart. We were three above, and two below. Curtains being fixed round the bottom of the cart, and meeting one Mother, my men have always a dry and warm bed, be the weather what it may.

Next morning Green rode to Harrismith to fetch his horse. I commissioned him at the same time to endeavour, if possible, to fix upon sites for the future church, parsonage and school, before all the erven are sold. At present there are not more than two or three houses in the village; but, if the Sovereignty is continued as part of the British possessions, and peace is maintained for a few ears, it probably will become an important village or town. The country is more pleasing than that which I have lately passed through; the mountains are fine, but there is no timber. The soil appears to be good, and I should think it is well watered. The grass grows to a very great height, but it is now either withered or burnt, and the horses appear to dislike it very much.

As evening came on, we began the descent of the Drakenberg. It was so very precipitous, that the pole cracked in several places, even though we unloaded the cart, and carried all the luggage ourselves for a distance of upwards of half a mile. Night surprised us during this operation. We therefore outspanned at the bottom of the steepest declivity. I never knew my driver baffled with a difficulty before. As the pole had cracked before we reached the worst part of the road, he said he did not dare to "reim" (lock) the wheel; and that if we went down with it unlocked, all would roll into the precipice below. He said we must turn back, we could not attempt the descent. As this, however, was impossible, we did attempt it, and arrived safe at the bottom, though through many dangers. I understand a cart has never been down before. The wagons of the country can, if they please, lock all the wheels. We spent the night again very uncomfortably and with little sleep, sitting or reclining as well as we could in the cart.

When day dawned and we proceeded in our descent, (which I did on foot, considerably in advance of the cart,) a glorious view presented itself. All the kloofs in the mountains around us and above us were covered with wood, to which our eyes of late had been but little accustomed! Before us was a vast range of country of an undulating character, an apparently interminable succession of hill and dale. The grass, which on the other side of the mountain was dry and withered, was here, especially in the kloofs, green and verdant, and several sorts of flowers were still in blossom. I know not whether the change of scene affected me at all, but I have seldom enjoyed a two hours' walk more. During the whole of the time I was enabled to maintain almost uninterrupted communion with God. The cart had scarcely overtaken me, before we reached a deep ravine, near to the first house which we have seen for nearly four days. In descending this, the pole snapped in sunder, and at one time I thought my driver would have been killed, and the cart dashed to pieces. Happily, however, the horses, perhaps through fatigue, behaved very well, and the cart reached the bed of the river with little additional damage. A kind farmer in the neighbourhood brought his wagon and Kafirs, with wood and forage, and we were enabled to splice our pole, and proceed on our journey after two or three hours' delay.

We again slept in the veldt. On the following day we passed through a pleasing country without further serious accident, though the front board of the cart gave way altogether,--our swingle broke,--the iron ring which fastened the harness of the four front horses to the pole snapped in two, and we had several similar trifling misfortunes. The soil of the country seems very fertile. Much t of the grass is as high as full-grown wheat in England. A great portion, however, has been burnt by the farmers, as is usual in this country during autumn, there not being sufficient stock to consume all that nature supplies. This custom destroys the trees along with the grass, which causes the country to appear somewhat bare, though in several parts the mimosa appears. We passed one fine river, the Tugela, in which I bathed, as I have been enabled to do also for the last three days,--much to my refreshment; for having so little sleep, and not being able to lie down, I am getting somewhat fatigued. A life like that I am now leading, makes a man feel that he is a wayfarer,--that he is a stranger and a pilgrim upon earth,--that this is not his home or rest. God grant that it may lead me more and more, day by day, to prepare, as I trust it is in some measure doing, to enter into that rest that "remaineth for the people of GOD."

We passed the night by the banks of a little stream. Our horses having strayed to some distance during the night, we were long in finding them, and therefore did not start very early. I had been three hours on foot before the cart overtook me. There are a great many ancient Kafir kraals all along the road, which evidently were raised by the former inhabitants of the country, who have now passed away; for I understand that there are not more than two petty chiefs of the ancient tribes remaining in the whole dependency. The 100,000 coloured people who now dwell in the country, and have had considerable tracts of land assigned to them, are chiefly refugees from the tyranny of Panda and other chiefs. Two of these came up to us while we were cooking our supper last night in the veldt. We did not see them for some time, it being very dark. They were thankful for some food and tea which we gave them, and expressed their gratitude in a superabundance of complimentary epithets at their departure.

We breakfasted at the Bushman's Drift, a military post upon a fine river--at least fine for South Africa. It has been placed there to check the depredations of the Bushmen who dwell in the Drakenberg mountains, which are their strongholds. These men are the great cattle-stealers of this colony, and the Sovereignty. I am told that if they are followed when stealing cattle, and are closely pressed, they will kill their spoil, in order that at least it may not fall alive into the hands of its owner. The Bushmen appear to be the most lost and degraded of all the tribes of South Africa. They are very bold and daring. Quite lately thirteen of them committed an atrocious murder in the Sovereignty under peculiar circumstances. Some of them were in the employ of a Dutch farmer. He had been in the habit of giving them tobacco. On one occasion when they asked for it, he either had none to give, or would give none. His Bushman servant said he would be revenged. In about a week after the refusal, he came by night with a party of thirteen of his tribe, and attacked the farmer's house-. When he appeared at his door they shot him with their poisoned arrows, and then entered his house, and killed his wife and all his children in cold blood, battering in their skulls with Knob Keries. Troops were sent out to apprehend them when the murder was discovered. They made a determined resistance, occupying a kraal for defence. Six were killed before the party would surrender. The remainder were brought to Bloemfontein, tried, condemned, and hanged.

The officers at the Post did me the favour to call upon me where I was outspanning, and supplied all our wants. from thence we went over a very hilly country, with wretched roads, to the Mooi River, where we had some supper in an Englishman's hut, and pushed on by moonlight a little further, being anxious to make sure of reaching Maritzburg the next night. We outspanned, as usual, in the veldt. This is the ninth night that I have been unable to undress, or go to bed, while I have been taking long walks every day. I am surprised that I am not, more fatigued than I find myself to be. The next morning we arrived at the Umgeni River to breakfast, after a drive of four hours over a hilly country. Here there is a very beautiful fall. The river rushes over a perpendicular rock into a valley, which is about three hundred feet below, the valley itself is wooded and picturesque. I do not know that I have seen a finer fall in any part of the world. Before we left this spot, a party rode up from Maritzburg. Having understood from them that His Honour the Governor, who had kindly invited me before I left Capetown to pay him a visit, was expecting me at his house, I resolved to drive there at once.

We arrived at Maritzburg about four o'clock. The first view I caught of it was from the top of a mountain, at whose feet it lay. The descent to it is long and steep. We-were rejoiced to look again upon human beings and dwelling-houses, after having travelled so many days without seeing any signs of life. Maritzburg is not like any of the villages in the old colony. Perhaps it resembles George more than any other place. No one expected our arrival for-at least a week to come. They were disposed to think it impossible that I could accomplish the journey in the time proposed. I told them that I make it a point to keep my engagements, if possible. Before I left Capetown I wrote to say that "possibly I might be here on Thursday--more likely on Friday--probably not till Saturday." I should have been here on the Friday, had I not gone one day out of my road to visit the Mission stations in the Sovereignty. I bless GOD that He hath brought me to this distant part of the Diocese in health and safety; and heartily do I pray that my visitation here may tend to the promotion of His glory, the advancement of His kingdom, and the good of the souls of this people.

The Governor received me very kindly, and has, I am sorry to say, given up his own rooms for my accommodation.

I calculate that I have travelled 1,400 miles with the same horses, in less than seven weeks. Mr. Green has ridden not less than 400 miles to meet me.

Whitsunday, May 19th, 1850.--An interesting day. A. little more than a year ago there was no clergyman of the Church of England in this colony, nor, as far as the members of the Church could see, any prospect of one being appointed. Now there are two; one here and the other at the Bay. [A third has since arrived, sent out by the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel.] A large emigrant population is, however, flowing in, and there is a vast missionary work lying before the Church, amongst the 100,000 Zoolus that have of late come into the colony. We shall need, therefore, a considerable increase in the number of our Clergy, if we are in good earnest to undertake the work God has given ns to do. Our services were held this morning in the Government schoolroom, a large and commodious building, the upper end of which is partitioned off for divine service. It is fitted up with a decent Communion-table, a very hand, some Early English stone font, well executed, and a massive lectern, carved and made of the finest wood in the colony. There was a large congregation, filling the whole room. Everything was done decently and in order, and in accordance with the rubrics. There were twenty-five communicants. I preached both in the morning and evening. choir broke forth with the Psalm, "O come, let
unto the Lord, let us heartily rejoice in the strength of our salvation," I was for the moment quite overcome. That text, "How shall I sing the Lord's song in a strange land?" rushed into my mind. It was not that I was moved by any desponding or ungrateful feelings, but I could not refrain from tears. The sacredness of the day itself, its peculiar appropriateness for the first service of the first bishop of the Church of God in this land,--the devout and reverential manner of the congregation that had been gathered by the zeal and earnestness of my dear friend,--gratitude to Almighty God for what Ho has already Wrought for us in this land,--and a very fervent desire that God, "who as at this time did teach the hearts of His faithful people by sending to them the light of His Holy Spirit," might pour out abundantly the gift of His Spirit upon our infant Church,--all these contributed to make me feel very deeply the services of this day.

May 25th.--I have been at Maritzburg now a week. 'My whole time has been fully occupied with receiving and paying visits,--the examination of Mr. Steabler for Ordination, the Confirmation, and the preparation of Sermons. It is a comfort to have the daily prayers of the Church established in this far-distant land. The sacrifice of prayer, and 'praise, and intercession, is uninterruptedly offered, and will, "I trust, prevail with God. The worshippers, indeed, are not many, but there are a few who value the privilege; and Christ's promised presence is, assuredly, not withheld. On Thursday the Confirmation took place. There were forty-four candidates, amongst whom were several of the Solitary. The congregation was large, and all behaved devoutly. Several Dutch were present, and amongst them their minister. He told me afterwards that his people liked the service, but objected to the coloured people, of whom there were several, being confirmed along with the rest. He reasoned with them on the subject, but it will require some time to eradicate their prejudices.

I have had much interesting conversation with the Governor this week. He seems disposed to devote his whole energies to the improvement of the colony. I have seen much also of the other public servants, and especially, of Mr. Shepstone, the very able superintendent, or chief of the whole coloured population of the colony. We dined one day with the Secretary to Government; another, at the camp, with the officers of the 45th regiment. On the other days the Governor has had one or two of the chief inhabitants to dinner.

On Friday, being the Queen's birth-day, the troops fired a royal salute, and paraded before the Governor; and in the evening His Honour had a party. After the review I; went with the Governor to the Colonial Office, to receive the ambassadors of Panda, Chief or King of the Zoolus, who had come to congratulate him on his arrival. Mr. Shepstone told us they were the same messengers who had been sent on all occasions during the last two or three years. He said that one of them was a subtle-minded; clever man. They had no clothing except a dark kind of blanket or horse-cloth, and were fine, intelligent-looking men. After they had been seated, they were invited to declare their message. This they did sitting, with much expressive action. "They had been sent to congratulate the Governor on his "arrival, and to wish him health and prosperity--to inform him that Panda was not well." (This was supposed to be said to avoid the possibility of an invitation to the Chief to come to the colony. On a former occasion, when invited, he excused himself on the ground that his feet were sore; he was offered a wagon, but replied that he had once, in the time of the Boers, taken a journey in a wagon, and had been so shaken that he had never recovered from it since.) They added "that Panda admired the British Government for its justice;--that he liked it much better than that of the Boers; that he particularly approved of the arrangement with regard to cattle;--that he thanked the Government for what had been sent, and hoped that more had been found; that the tribe had been entirely conquered by Panda, and had sent in its submission."

The Governor informed them that he had sent an embassy to Panda to announce his arrival, which had crossed Panda's on the road; and that he thanked them for their message, but would give his reply on a future occasion.

The ambassadors are lodged in a kraal out of the town, from which the inhabitants have been removed to accommodate them. They had an ox given them for their maintenance on their arrival two days ago. They were asked if they had had it, and liked it. They replied, "Yes, and had eaten it up." Another was promised, for which they were duly grateful. The formal business being finished, a friendly conversation sprung up. We asked them about the unhealthy country near Delagoa Bay, upon which their country borders. They spoke of it as marshy, full of bushes and trees; and said that wild beasts were there as thick as leaves, but that all men and oxen that went near it died. The Governor told them that I was the chief minister of religion in this part of the world, and said that if Panda wished for a minister of God, and would send him word to that effect, he would communicate with me about it. They were asked how they liked the review. They admired it very much. They could not understand how all the soldiers marched with one step. They thought the music showed a great house. It gave them a pain across their stomachs. The only thing they could have dispensed with was the firing; it gave them a pain in the head.

Panda's army is enrolled in regiments, and consists chiefly of young unmarried men, kept apart from the rest of the population. The arrangement about cattle, to which they alluded, arises out of the desire of Government to check the influx of Zoolus into this colony. Such is the tyranny of Panda that, if no restrictions existed, his whole people would leave him, take refuge in the colony, and place themselves under British protection; and thus Panda's power, which, tinder any circumstances, it is supposed, cannot last long, would be entirely and immediately broken up. This, however, it is thought, would not be a politic measure to adopt at present, for the colony has already a very large coloured population,--115,000, to which it is necessary to assign hinds which would otherwise be sold; and Panda's neighbourhood serves as a wholesome restraint upon those who have once felt, and might again, if they misconducted themselves, feel his power. His name is a kind of bugbeat to them; not that these poor people, however, are disaffected, or difficult to govern; on the contrary, they are most docile and manageable. They have hardly yet, in any single case, fallen into habits of intoxication. They show a great aptitude for labour, and willingness to work, especially under good superintendence; and they have the very greatest respect for law and constituted authorities. Still, however, it is thought advisable to discourage the extensive immigration which is setting in, especially from Panda's country; therefore no one is allowed to bring his cattle with him across the frontier. He may come himself if he likes, but he must come empty-handed. If he brings cattle, they are taken from him, and sent to Panda, who consoles himself for the loss of his subjects by the appropriation of their property, to which, indeed, he is by the laws of his country (that is, his own laws) entitled. The consequence is, that there is personal safety for those who are oppressed, and whose lives are threatened; but there is no encouragement given to disaffection; and Panda himself cannot fail to be struck with the good faith and generosity of the British Government. It is singular enough that his former subjects, after changing their allegiance, have no fear whatever of his resentment, on revisiting, which they occasionally do, their former country. Mr. Shepstone says there are not more than three or four men now in the colony who would be afraid to put themselves in his power. And these are men who were his former counsellors, and who are acquainted with all his secrets. The right of changing their chiefs,--transferring their allegiance,--seems to be recognised amongst all the South African tribes.

I should have inserted here, at greater length, incidental notices of this very interesting people, if I had not obtained a promise from Mr. Shepstone to put down upon paper for me much that he told me. There are many traditions, customs, habits, and manners of these people, which he, more than any other man, is competent to give information upon, which are gradually dying out, and which will be altogether lost in a short time, unless he record them. Being the son of a Wesleyan Missionary, having lived with Kafirs from his childhood, and being now regarded by the 115,000 Zoolus in this colony as their Inkosi Inkulu, which brings him into daily contact with their national life, system, laws, and polity, he has had opportunities, greater than perhaps all other men, of acquiring an intimate knowledge of all that relates to them.

Trinity Sunday, May 26th, 1850, Maritzburg.--This day I admitted to the Holy Order of Deacons the Rev. W. A. Steabler, who came out more than two years ago in the same ship with myself. During this period he has approved himself as a zealous faithful labourer, having been employed as catechist, both here and on the frontier, with much acceptance. I purpose sending him to commence our work at Bloemfontein. I took occasion to preach plainly on the subject of the Ministry of Christ. This I should have thought it desirable to do under any circumstances, at the very first ordination in a new Colony; but I felt the more constrained to do so, in consequence of a person having, immediately upon my arrival, advertised lectures and sermons, in which he has assailed the Orders of the Church, and her services, especially Confirmation. In the evening I preached again, on the subject of the Ever Blessed Trinity. The schoolroom was quite full on each occasion.

On Monday I was present at another interview with Panda's messengers, when the Governor gave them his official answer. They do not like to receive messages in writing. They carry away, however, the substance of what B said very accurately. Some messengers also from the Chief Faku received an audience on the same occasion.

It will, I think, be a happy day for the native population of South Africa when British rule shall extend, as I think it must ere long, from the eastern frontier of the Cape to Delagoa Bay. Before ten years shall have passed away, this will, I apprehend, be the case. May the Church be prepared to enter heartily upon the important and most promising work which God in His Providence is opening out to her!

On Tuesday I started with the Governor, who occupied a seat in my cart, for D'Urban. Several gentlemen accompanied us. It is his intention to see as much as possible of this portion of the Colony during the next fortnight. We are to visit together the American Mission Stations, the Cotton Company's lands, &c. The day was unfortunately wet, and we could not see much of the country, which was hilly, grassy, and bare. The roads became so slippery that we could hardly travel, and evening came upon us before we reached Botha's, about thirty miles, where we were to sleep. One of my horses fell in the dark just before we arrived. Next morning we started after breakfast for D'Urban, distant about twenty miles. We diverged from our road to visit Mr. Bergthiel's settlement at Little Germany. Mr. B. has brought out thirty-six German families, and planted them on a farm which he has purchased. He paid their passage out, fed them till they could support themselves, assigned 200 acres to each family, upon which, they have built comfortable houses, supplied them with agricultural implements, and stocked in some degree their land. Besides this, though a Jew himself, he in part supports a Missionary from the Berlin Society, and a schoolmaster, and has built both chapel and school. There are said to be 1,200 acres of land on the farm under the plough. The farm is of the usual extent, viz. 6,000 acres. But beside this he has purchased several other farms. The original cost of the farm was 500l.; but I understand that he calculates that he has in one way or another embarked a capital of nearly 10,000l. upon it. The greater part of this remains in the shape of a debt from the of the land to the owner, who has charged to their account all that he has expended in their behalf from the time they left Germany to the present hour. The result of this is that each family is indebted to Mr. Bergthiel to a considerable amount, varying, I understand, from 150l. to 350l. This of course places very considerable power in the hands of the creditor. All agree, however, that it has not been in the least abused by him. On the contrary, he has not only been lenient, but liberal. His arrangement, I am informed, is that they shall pay six per pent, interest on the debt till it is paid off, and one-third of the produce of their land by way of rent. Nothing, however, has as yet been paid. As to the system itself, I conceive it is in some respects valuable. The comforts which the people enjoy, the order, neatness, and industry which prevail, all are highly important, if only for example's sake to others. Undoubtedly such an establishment is in many ways beneficial to the Colony. I think also it may be considered as a safe speculation for the proprietor. Be it, that he has altogether laid out 10,00l.; it is all upon his own land. Every emigrant, though nominally enjoying a lease for five years, with a right to a renewal upon the same terms, and a promise of remuneration for improvements, buildings, &c. should he remove from the settlement, is de facto a mere labourer upon the estate, fed, clothed, and supported, but not paid. Consequently, the owner's property is becoming more valuable from day to day, at as cheap a rate to himself as possible. The stipend of the Pastor and schoolmaster, indeed, bring in no direct return. But if the labour of the emigrant's family is worth more than the cost of his keep, every hour that he works is a benefit to the proprietor. Whether the system will work ultimately well for the emigrant, is another matter. I do not think it will. He is entirely in the hands of the proprietor, and, except under the most liberal treatment, will be in debt all his life. I believe Mr. Bergthiel feels that it 18 utterly hopeless to expect that the debts will be paid off. They give him, however, a very considerable power over his tenants. Were I a poor emigrant, I would infinitely prefer fighting my own way in a new Colony. At the end of two or three years any industrious labourer would be better off than Mr. Bergthiel's tenants. He would not have lived so comfortably during those years, but, at the end of them, he would not be in debt, and would probably have realized something.

I put down my impressions upon visiting this settlement, because it has excited a good deal of attention, and the system adopted is much approved of. My statistics were gathered from conversations with those whom Mr. B. has left in charge of the settlement during his absence in Europe, whither he has gone to bring out more emigrants, whom he purposes to engage upon very liberal terms, and upon a somewhat different system. From all that I have seen I should say that Mr. Bergthiel may be entirely depended upon for the fulfilment of his engagements, which is more than can be said for most speculators.

The Governor was received most loyally, and myself also with many marks of respect. Their bell rang at his Honour's approach. The people, headed by their minister, came out in procession to meet him, with their Psalmbooks under their arms. He was welcomed with a salute of small arms as he passed under the first of the triumphal arches which were erected. Blowers were strewed in the path, and at the Superintendent's house, the minister, in the name and presence of the inhabitants, addressed his Honour, thanking him for his visit, &c., and afterwards addressed me. We returned our thanks, and said a few words, which were interpreted to the people, who then cheered us. After visiting one very well cultivated allotment, we partook of a cold collation at the Superintendent's house, and quitted this interesting and beautifully situated settlement, much pleased with all that we had seen.

Our drive to D'Urban was through a beautiful undulating country. I should have called it well wooded, bat the timber is so very small as scarcely to deserve the name. Much of the country is like an English gentleman's park, and brought forcibly to my mind thoughts of home and days long past in our dear native land. In some of its features, too, it reminded me of the Knysna district, though it is not, I think, equal in beauty to that part of the Colony. yfe caught from several points distant views of the sea, and as we approached D'Urban, commanded a full view of the bay. Unfortunately, the bar has again washed up so high as to leave only seven feet of water upon it, and ships are consequently obliged to ride outside in the open anchorage. Several gentlemen came out to meet us. The governor took up his abode at the house of Mr. Field, collector of customs, and I at that of Mr. Mesham, one of the churchwardens, the son and brother of clergymen.

June 1st.--The town of D'Urban is rapidly rising. Building seems to be the employment of every one. At the present moment it is inundated with an influx of emigrants, some of whom willingly remain spending their little capital in drink and idleness after their long voyage. Others lie detained from inability to get upon their lands, Mr. Byrne's agent not being prepared to locate them. This is causing some degree of discontent.

I cannot but fear that a labouring population, the greater part of which is without capital, is pouring in too fast, and that there will consequently be much distress. How the majority of those who come are to live for the first few months, I know not. There are not sufficient capitalists to employ them. The land, indeed, is rich, and will grow almost anything; but how they will subsist till their houses are built, and their crops come up, remains to be seen. And if they all take to cultivating the soil, will there be a sufficient market? Cotton, indeed, if the cultivation of it will pay, may be exported to any extent, but there are, in the immediate neighbourhood of this town, deserted cotton lands; although in some places it is said that this year the Crops will pay exceedingly well. I have taken two rides with the Governor--one to the Point, and across the harbour to the Bluff, a projecting hill of about 300 feet high, which runs out into the sea, and forms the western bank at the entrance of the harbour. In the immediate neighbourhood of the Bluff, the small remnant of one of the original tribes of the country is still living. The chief's name is Umneni. The tribe does not consist of more than 600 souls.

Another ride which we took was to the Umgeni river. The country is very beautiful, and I enjoyed the ride greatly. The trees are chiefly evergreens. The convolvulus was creeping over the highest of them. The bush was very thick, and flowers were still blooming. Amongst these I observed the hibiscus, salvia, &c. The castor-oil, tobacco, indigo, sarsaparilla, and hemp, grow in great abundance. Elephants abound in the hills in the neighbourhood of D'Urban, and as we passed through the bush, we saw their paths in every direction. The tiger, wolf, and wild dog are also to be found.

On Sunday, June 2d, I preached twice, and administered the Lord's Supper to twenty-five communicants, in the Government schoolroom, which is used for Divine Service until a church can be built. The congregation in the morning was full to overflowing. Several persons were obliged to go away unable to obtain admittance. On the Monday, I held a Confirmation in the morning, when only eleven candidates presented themselves. I afterwards attended a meeting of the parishioners, (at which the Governor was present,) to take into consideration the subject of the erection of a church. There were not very many present; but a committee was formed to collect additional subscriptions. I intimated to the parishioners my desire to see the Church system of weekly collections adopted. We began with the offertory on Sunday, which produced upwards of 7l.

On Tuesday morning the Governor, myself, Mr. Green, Dr. Stanger, Mr. Shepstone, and Captain Gordon, started on horseback to visit several of the American Mission Stations along the north-east coast, and the lands of the Natal Cotton Company. We are to be out the whole week. Our first day's journey lay through a beautiful country to Mr. Lindley's Mission Station. The scenery partakes more of the mountain character than any I have yet seen in the Colony. We had some very fine views, especially where we off-saddled, at a water-fall, where a branch of the Umgeni falls into a basin nearly 300 feet below it. The latter part of our day's ride was through a pleasing valley. I like Mr. Lindley much. There is a plain straightforwardness about him. He shows no desire to colour anything. He has not many houses in the immediate vicinity of his station, and he does not give an encouraging account of his work. He has been here two years, and has baptized fifteen. There are about ten more either baptized, or ripe for baptism; and he regards all these as sincere. His congregation is about forty, and he has a school of about thirty under the charge of a native teacher.

When he first came here, the heathen flocked around him, and he had large schools and congregations; but when they found that the gospel would interfere with their heathen customs and practices, they held several meetings, and resolved that they would have nothing to do with the religion of Christ. From that time much opposition has been offered to the Mission work. The men will not allow their wives to come to hear the Missionary, or the children to go to school. They fear that if they became. Christians, they would leave them, and they would thus lose a valuable property; for they buy their wives, who do all the work, and sell their daughters. Perhaps the very apposition that is offered is encouraging. Satan feels his kingdom invaded. Mr. Lindley's impression is that very many have a secret conviction that the truths pressed upon their acceptance are truths, but that they hate the light, and will not come to the light, lest their deeds should be reproved. Both he and Mr. Shepstone agree that the Zoolus are in one respect very different from the frontier Kafirs,--that, whereas the latter are essentially sceptical, Mid doubt or dispute all you say, the former are ready to believe when truth is pressed upon them. They readily, for instance, believe in the being of God, His providence, the account of the creation, &c. The great difficulty in the conversion of this people will be, that they practise fearful abominations, and love to have it so. I doubt, too, whether hereafter it will not be found that their covetous dispositions offer a serious impediment. They have a great desire to accumulate property, like their countrymen, the Fingos in the old Colony. A great part of the Zoolu population does not practise the rite of circumcision, which is common to the whole Kafir race. Chaka forbade it during his reign, and thus the custom was broken in upon. Many, however, still practise it; and there is a rite similar in its nature for the females.

Wednesday.--We rode this day through a beautiful undulating country to the Mission Station of Mr. Lewis Grout, who received us very hospitably. Mr. Lindley accompanied, us, and I had much interesting conversation with both these gentlemen respecting Missions and the Heathen. Mr. Grout's account of his work is not more encouraging than Mr. Lindley's, and they say that all their Missions are in the same state, and from the same causes.

Mr. Grout has only about fifteen children at school, six Christians in his Mission field, and from forty to sixty attendants on Divine worship. He does not appear to have any course of systematic instruction for catechumens,, which Mr. Lindley has, instructing them in the Creed, the Lord's Prayer, and the Ten Commandments, and in a short elementary Catechism. Mr. Grout prefers commenting on the historical parts of the Old and New Testaments, which have been translated, and in which they take much interest. There is as yet no chapel at either of these institutions. During our day's ride we entered into several kraals, as we passed near them. Most of the inhabitants fled and hid themselves at our approach. We understood that they were afraid of the "sambok" (whip), which, I apprehend, in days I hope for ever gone by, has been freely administered to them by the white man.

Thursday,--Our day's ride was through a beautiful country, covered for the first few miles with bush, but afterwards consisting of extensive plains, to the Mission Station of Mr. Alden Grout. We looked into many of the trials as we passed by. Such of the inmates as were not frightened, seemed always thankful to be noticed. When Mr. Shepstone told one of the great men of a tribe, whom we met, who the Governor was, he said, "It was a lucky day for him to have seen his great chief. He should be the happier for it." These savages have a delicate, and sometimes very striking way of expressing themselves. The language of this man, Mr. Shepstone said, was not merely complimentary.

In the course of the day we passed by a farm of a newly, arrived emigrant who seemed in great discomfort, and complained bitterly against the Government for having taken him in, in allowing him to come here. He said he could not live. His poor wife, with a babe in her arms, stood by, uncomplaining, but looking unhappy. A little further on we came to the farm of a Mr. Morwood, who has thirty-five acres of rich land in a high state of cultivation. The sugar-cane, tobacco, wheat and oats, were growing in, great abundance. He talks of founding a village. Besides his arable land, he has a complete nursery-garden well stocked with a variety of plants and trees. It is quite refreshing to behold a farm in so advanced a state. Our day's journey was thirty miles.

Mr. Grout's station is very beautifully situated on the banks of the Umvoti. The view as you descend the hill to his house is very striking. To the left you look upon a rich well-wooded valley. To the right you see a considerable reach of the river stretching down to the sea, the roar of whose waves you hear, and which is about six miles distant. Mr. Grout has an excellent house, and well-stocked garden extending down to the river.

All the rivers here abound with crocodiles, as docs the country with the usual kinds of wild beasts. Last Sunday morning one of the Kafirs was much torn by a tiger. When I was going to bathe in the morning Mr. Grout warned me against the crocodiles, which are more difficult to escape from in the water than on the land. They frequently catch the Kafirs in the water, and destroy animals, especially calves and dogs. Before taking our departure on Friday, we were present at an examination of Mr. Grout's school. Of these there are two, one for adults, the other for children. There were about fifty present, chiefly adults; and we were much pleased with their appearance and examination. They were all clothed in clean dresses, which I rejoiced to see in this distant part of the Colony; for it is very painful to behold the whole population, even in the towns, walking about entirely unclothed. Nothing can be more picturesque, indeed, than the naked Zoolu, with his shield on his arm, his assegai and knob-keri in hand, his fine form improved by the crown which the married men usually wear upon the head, and his body adorned with rings and beads; but one soon loses all idea of the picturesque, in a sense of the degradation of these interesting people. I could not therefore but rejoice in the conviction that Mr. Alden Grout's Mission was being, at least in some degree, blessed to their good. Most of those in the school either have been baptized, or desire to be so; and I could not but perceive that there was a difference in their very countenances from those of their Heathen countrymen. There was a modesty, a diffidence, an innocency of look. The most advanced read our Lord's Sermon on the Mount out of the Gospel of St. Matthew, which has been translated for them; and one young woman read very fairly in English. Mr. Shepstone was our interpreter. We put a few questions to them. They showed an acquaintance with the leading doctrines of the Christian faith, and the outlines of Scripture history. They sang and chanted very nicely, Mr. Grout confirming what other Missionaries had previously told me, that the Kafir language is peculiarly adapted for chanting. Their knowledge of arithmetic and geography was not great. The sewing was very respectable. The young women had both cut out and made up the clothes that they wore. I should have enjoyed the scene more, and entered into it with more spirit, had I not, just before the examination commenced, opened three newspapers in succession, which were lying on the table, and found each of them full of accusations against the Church. May God preserve us from falling into a similar spirit.

Just as we were about to mount our horses, we were informed that there was to be a gathering of the Kafirs to meet the Governor. When Mr. Shepstone told the messengers that we could not wait, they said, "They would burst, if they found on their arrival that their great Chief had gone." We therefore waited for them, and spoke a few words of kindness to them. They shouted and clapped their hands when we took our departure. Our ride this day was nearer to the sea-coast; the country was less undulating, but covered to a considerable extent with bush. Some parts of it were very beautiful; but it is still almost without inhabitants, though nearly the whole of the country on the sea-coast has already been disposed of. We arrived towards sunset at the Cotton Company's lands, lately sold to Mr. Byrne. We took up our quarters in tents, which his agent had prepared for us on the site of one of the proposed new villages, and partook of an excellent dinner, which he had managed to provide in the wilderness.

Saturday.--We examined this morning the site of the proposed new village, which is beautifully situated on a hill, (Commanding a view of the sea, and surrounded by well-brooded hills and dales. I fixed upon sites for Church and burial-ground, and also upon 100 acres apportioned for glebe land. Mr. Byrne's agent expressed his readiness to transfer these at once to the See. I do not wish to detract from the apparent liberality of the Company, but it must be remembered that each adult labourer of either sex upon this property has cost the Government 100 acres of this very land for bringing him out; and that the probable appointment of a Clergyman or Catechist will help forward, in a temporal point of view, the objects of the Company, giving confidence to those who need it, and an air of stability and progress to the undertaking. Several of the emigrants formed themselves into a Church Committee, with a view to obtain funds for the support of a minister, and to take measures for the erection of a wattle-and-daub building, until a church can be built. We afterwards rode through a beautiful country to another village, called Verulam, a few miles off. This is fixed upon for a Methodist location, and consists of about 12,000 acres. I obtained a site for a church here. There probably will be a third village on these cotton lands, and at least three more between D'Urban and the Umvoti. If the tide of immi. gration should still continue setting into Natal, several additional Clergy will soon be required to provide for the necessities of the people. I think there are not less than a dozen now villages already decided upon in several parts of the colony. After endeavouring to settle some disputes between the immigrants and the Company's agents, we proceeded on our journey through an exceedingly beautiful country to D'Urban, and arrived at about seven o'clock at Mr. Mesham's, having had a most agreeable and interesting excursion.

June 9th.--We had service both in the morning and afternoon in the government schoolroom. I have heard to-day from a lady who lives in the neighbourhood, that the chief Umneni, of whom I have before spoken, removed from his lands on the Bluff last Friday. He came to bid her farewell before he left; for they had been kind neighbours to each other. "It was not without sorrow that he quitted his birthplace, where he has resided all his life, and withstood in his fastnesses the victorious troops of Chaka, who conquered the whole country, and brought into subjection all the native chiefs except this one and another. But now we want his land. It is important for our growing settlement at D'Urban that it should be in our possession; therefore he must go. He is weak, and we are strong."

If we are to pursue the system which we have already in some degree adopted towards the native tribes, the same judgments from a just God which have already overtaken the Boers for their cruelties and injustice towards the poor heathen will assuredly come upon us. I fear we are treading in their steps.

I should here observe that the local government, acting under the instructions of Earl Grey, who takes a deep interest in the condition of the natives, is about to fix the whole coloured population in ten locations. This had been decided upon for some time, but it has never yet been carried out, and the natives are quite uncertain as to the proper boundaries of their reserves. The Report of the Committee appointed for locating them, dated so far back as March, 1847, strongly recommends that all lands set apart for the natives should be vested in trustees for their use, I believe this to be a point of deep importance. Unless it be done, the natives will be gradually deprived of their land. No local government will be able to withstand the restless and insatiate demands of the white man, even if its own wants did not tempt it to sell, from time to time, under various pretences, which will always be forthcoming, property which has no legal owner, and is in the hands of government. The question, is one which demands immediate attention, and should not be postponed. The Zoolu has now a great respect for the English. He hates the Dutch for their injustice. There is now a saying which is becoming very common amongst them, which is, I think, a very affecting one; when he sees or feels a wrong, he is in the habit of saying, "I should say it was wrong, if it was not done by an Englishman." His reverence for the English will not allow him to believe that they would willingly do a wrong; and yet he cannot altogether stifle his convictions. How long will this last?

June 10th.--We rode this morning along the S. W. coast to Dr. Adams' Mission Station. The country is, I think, not quite equal to the eastern side of D'Urban, though it is throughout very pleasing, and we had occasionally some fine views of the sea. The distance was about twenty-four I)t, and Mrs. Adams, though not expecting us to-day, received us very kindly. During our ride I mentioned to the Governor what I heard about Umneni's removal. He knew nothing about it, and undertook to inquire into it on his return, and see justice done.

Tuesday, 11th.--After breakfast this morning, we had an examination of Dr. Adams' school. There were fifty present, chiefly adults, and all dressed. There were present also some of the chiefs, with a few of their fol. lowers, who had come to see Mr. Shepstone. They all sang a hymn very nicely. Two or three read the English Bible, and others read it in, Kafir. I asked them a few elementary questions respecting the Christian faith. The Governor put questions relating to their moral and social state. Their answers were satisfactory. Dr. Adams told us his school was not in a good state, in consequence of his inability to attend to it of late, through the failure of his health. By two o'clock we reached, according to appointment, Mrs. Dunn's farm at Sea-view. Here I met a party of immigrants settled in the neighbourhood, and urged them to form a Committee with a view to the erection of a church or churches, and the maintenance of a minister. One gentleman offered 100 acres of land for glebe, and it was thought that 200 or 300 acres would be given. I am to hear from them shortly. Mrs. Dunn gave us a cold collation under a fine tree in her grounds. The situation of this farm is very beautiful. It commands an extensive view of the Bay and the surrounding country. We returned late in the evening to D'Urban.

Wednesday., 12th.--This morning after Divine Service I consecrated the burial-ground. I afterwards returned several calls of the parishioners, winch I had hitherto been unable to do. Two gentlemen, who had undertaken to collect subscriptions towards the support of a Clergyman or Catechist for the Cotton Company's laud, called to report that they had raised upwards of 60l., and to express their hope that the Catechist would be able also to undertake the office of teacher to their children, for which they promised additional payments. Mr. Morwood also, in behalf of another Company, volunteered a free passage out in any of their ships for a Clergyman or Schoolmaster, 500 acres of land for glebe, and sites for church, &c., in a new village about to be erected, provided I would undertake to send out a Clergyman. This I have agreed to do, though of course the glebe will provide no adequate support for some years. At four o'clock I attended a meeting of the parishioners of D'Urban, called with a view to promote the erection of the new church. It was decided that a church, for which I should furnish the plans, should be as soon as possible erected, to hold 250 persons. Prom the report of the Committee appointed at the last meeting to raise addilional subscriptions, it appeared that upwards of 100l. had been collected, making a total of 450l.. The church will cost 1,000l. Some of the parishioners took the opportunity of complaining that the benches in the schoolroom had been let. I told them that I had already expressed my opinion on that point to the minister and churchwardens, and, as they felt as I did on the point, would give directions that they should be free. They objected also to the payment of choir, clerk, and sexton, in their present impoverished state. As Some gentleman in the room offered to lead the choir gratuitously, I advised that the sum of 12l. a-year only should be paid for a sexton. Complaint having also been made that 70l. had been taken from the church-building fund, and applied to the fitting up of the schoolroom, I suggested that the only way of repaying it would be from the weekly offerings. It was arranged that they should be appropriated to this purpose and to the relief of the poor at present, though the Missions of the Church, and other works brought under the notice of the Church in my last pastoral letter, were not to be altogether overlooked. We drank tea at Mr. Lloyd's. The meeting lasted nearly four hours.

Thursday, 13th.--After passing a great part of the night in writing letters, I had a very busy morning, receiving by appointment several gentlemen who wished to make arrangements about Clergy and Schools. I licensed this morning Mr. Steele as Catechist and Schoolmaster to the immigrants OE the Cotton Company's land. This gentle-man came out of Ireland, highly recommended to me by many people of respectability. He is anxious to offer him-self as a candidate for Holy Orders. After several conversations with him, I determined to receive him as a candidate for the office of Catechist, and had him under examination the whole of yesterday. At twelve o'clock I started in my cart on my return to Maritzburg, the Governor following on horseback. We slept at Botha's that night, and arrived at the capital the next afternoon.

Sunday, 16th.--Preached at Mr. Green's. Seven o'clock service to the troops, who quite filled the School Chapel, which they have erected for themselves. Preached again at morning prayer. Mr. Green in the afternoon. Examined the Sunday School; I was glad to find the children evidently under good training.

Wednesday, 9th.--Rode with Mr. Green and Mr. Allison to Indaleni, the Mission Station of the latter. The day was very warm, and by the time we arrived at our destination, I was so unwell that I was scarce able to enter with interest into an examination of the Mission people. After dinner, however, eight of the most advanced and intelligent converts, whom Mr. Allison employs as teachers, sending them out to preach to the different kraals, came in and sat down upon the floor, and we had first an examination of them, and afterwards a conversation which lasted between two and three hours. I was much pleased with the account which they gave of their past Heathen and present Christian state. They showed an acquaintance with the leading doctrines of the Christian faith; and, so far as I could judge, are sincere in the profession of it. They seemed all intelligent men, some of them remarkably so. I talked to them about witchcraft. Their opinion was that the witch-doctor had no supernatural power, but that all his pretensions were delusions. They could not account for the universal belief prevalent amongst the heathen that he has such power. I asked them whether in their heathen state they had any notion of the one true God? "No, they believed their ancestors were gods, some good, some evil." "Where did these gods dwell?" "Everywhere. They flitted about, some in snakes;" consequently they never killed snakes. "Did they think the good and the evil, or only the evil, were the snakes?" "Both." "Did they worship their gods?" "They offered sacrifices to them." Any one offered these sacrifices. They bad no particular people for it. They afterwards ate the sacrifices. "What was their belief about themselves when they died?" "They would also be amongst the gods." "The good and the evil alike?" "Yes." "Did Panda, who was killing his subjects every day, think he would be amongst the gods when he died?" "They did not suppose he ever thought on the matter." "Did his subjects think so?" "Yes." "Did they think there was much prospect of their countrymen, as a whole, embracing the Gospel?" "They thought the prospect encouraging."

After a sleepless night, we had an examination of such as were under instruction in the school, after breakfast. They Sang, like all the natives of this land, very sweetly. Mr. Allison examined them in the 53d chapter of the Prophet Isaiah. I addressed to them a few words of encouragement gad exhortation. Afterwards some of them came down to Wish me a good journey. I returned to Maritzburg the same day, taking in my way the new village of Ivolo, which was being laid out. Some few of the immigrants had arrived, and were living in tents. They complained grievously of their not being able to get their land marked out. There were several from the Duke of Buccleuch's estates. These had been very liberally provided for by him. He had paid their passage out, and the expense of their land journey,--a most important point, but little thought of by poor emigrants in England,--had supplied them with ploughs and other implements, clothes, &c., and ordered that they should receive rations of flour till their crops came up. For this generous treatment they seemed very thankful. The only regret I felt was, that no provision seemed to be made for their spiritual wants.

Mr. Allison's is, I think, upon the whole, the most advanced Mission station in the colony. He has altogether I believe, 120 professing Christians. Several of these have already built houses in European fashion, and are cultivating enclosed gardens. He Las twenty boys in his own house maintained at an expenditure of 350l. a-year; 140l. has been acquired by the labour of the people, chiefly, I believe by the making of wheelbarrows, which have been taken by Government. He has 10,000 acres of land, which he is allowed to occupy. Mr. Allison's position is somewhat anomalous. He belongs to the Wesleyan Society, who have ordered him to leave this station, which he is unwilling to do. He has appealed home, and is now awaiting the decision of his case.

Saturday, 22d.--This morning I consecrated the burial-ground after Divine Service, the Governor and many of the congregation being present. At one o'clock we held a public meeting, to take into consideration the subject of the erection of the church. It appeared that during the sixteen months of Mr. Green's ministry, a sum of upwards of 600l. had been raised in the parish for church purposes; that of this 200l. had been expended in. the fitting up of the school, the purchase of land for the improvement of a site for the church, fencing in the burial-ground, maintenance of Divine worship, and in house rent for the clergyman,--and that therefore 400l. remained. The grant of the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, and my subscription, made this altogether about 550l. A church to hold 250, of the simplest character, it was found, would cost 1,500l. Some were anxious that a fresh subscription should be opened, and the church immediately begun. But the majority of the meeting preferred depending upon the weekly offertory alone, being convinced that as much would be raised in that way, which they deemed more legitimate than the other. In the end it was decided that the windows, which would take the longest time to complete, be immediately begun, and that the foundation of the building should be laid, but that the remainder of the church should not be contracted for until the church-wardens had 900l. actually in hand. I informed the meeting that the Secretary at War had refused 100l. a-year for a military chaplain. There are, therefore, 600 of our troops still dependent upon services voluntarily rendered to them; and the poor in England are giving their weekly pence to support a minister for Her Majesty's forces.

The meeting also fully agree with me, that it would be most desirable, in. the present circumstances of the colony, to invest in land a sum of 450l. placed in my hands for Church education in this district.

Sunday, 23d.--This morning I again preached in the military chapel, and afterwards in the church. Mr. Green preached in the afternoon.

Tuesday, 25th.--Confirmed at early prayer this morning four more candidates, who had not been able to present themselves at the last confirmation. Afterwards rode out with the Governor and a large party to a review of about 900 Kafirs, who had been summoned for the purpose. We were on the ground some time before they made their appearance. After a little delay they came pouring down in several bands from the hei