Thursday, Aug. 24, 1848.--This day I commenced my first Visitation of the Diocese, intending to go through the Colony, and to remain out till the early part of December; after which I am informed, that the extreme heat of the weather will compel me to return. May God grant that this Visitation may tend to the promotion of His glory, and to the extension of the kingdom of His dear Son in this desolate and long-neglected portion of the vineyard!
I start far from well, and in some fear of a recurrence of my late severe illness: my medical man, however, hopes that the journey may benefit my health. My mode of travelling is in a good plain English wagon, drawn by eight horses; we carry with us abundant provisions for the way, in case we should either be stopped by rivers, or not able to find accommodation; my wagon too is so arranged that I can by letting down the back of my seat make a tolerable bed for myself. * * *
I slept the first night at Mr. Cloete's, Sandileet, where I was entertained very hospitably. He is anxious to build a Church near his house. The plan he had procured was not a very correct one. I furnished him with another, and promised him 25l. from my fund, and 10l. as my private subscription. I also urged him to apply to Government for assistance, both towards the Church, and support of a Clergyman.
Friday, Aug. 25.--Started at six o'clock in the morning. I do not find wagon travelling so unpleasant as I expected. It is rather rough work, but I have managed to read. We breakfasted at the foot of Sir Lowry Cole's Pass, just beyond the village of Somerset, where there is a Dutch Church and a Wesleyan Chapel, with two Missionaries for the coloured people. * * *
I hope to form the villages of Erste River, Stellenbosch, and Worcester, into a parish. After breakfast I walked in advance of the wagon over Sir L. Cole's Pass. The views were very fine, but the day, though a brilliant one, was not so clear for distant views as I could have wished. Slept at Bot River. Our whole journey lay amongst the mountains. The views could scarcely be called magnificent, yet they were interesting. We passed very few houses in which I did not find English labourers. There are very few patches of cultivated ground all the way. I saw for the first time a man riding an ox.
Saturday, Aug. 26.--Started a little after six o'clock, after a good night's rest. Our route to-day still lay through the mountains which, as we reached Caledon, dwindled down to hills. The country is very bare. Here and there only there are a few cultivated patches. The general features, however, are like our English moors. There is scarce a tree to be seen. As I approached Caledon, I met a servant whom Captain Mackay, the resident Magistrate, had sent to watch for me. We drove to his house, where he had kindly prepared breakfast for me, there being no inn in the place. After breakfast I walked round the village, to look for a site for the proposed Church. The Municipality offer land, also Captain Mackay. I fixed upon sites, and requested them to have the consent of the Municipality given formally, in time for our Meeting on Tuesday. There are many English in this neighbourhood, and it is an important post for a Church and Clergyman. IB the afternoon I drove on (four hours) to Captain Ranier's where I am to have my head-quarters for a day or two, while visiting the District. The country is still open, and moorish, with mountains in the distance. The season is much later here than about Capetown. Here is scarce a flower in blossom. I find my men pass me off on the road as a very great man. To-day they drew up near some boors, who were outspanning, and waited for some time as I did not look out of my wagon; Ludwig came to tell me they wanted to look at me. * * *
Sunday, Aug. 27.--1 find Captain Hauler and his family good Christian people. We have been discussing plans for providing for the spiritual wants of the District, and I hope we shall be able to get two Churches and a Clergyman. We had Divine service this morning in Captain Earner's dining-room and hall; there were 70 persons present, and several from the neighbourhood could not attend. I baptized two children after the second Lesson; there were fifteen communicants, several were deeply affected. We had again a full service in the evening, and a very good congregation, Captain Ranier leading the singing; there were many coloured people present; Captain Ranier reads prayers and a sermon every Sunday morning and evening, and he has good congregations. The nearest Church and Clergyman are at Capetown, three days' journey from this place. We have already 700l. for our two Churches, and hope to raise 1,000l., which will be the least amount for which they can be built.
Monday, Aug. 28.--This morning brought a most unexpected letter from Mr.---------, saying that he purposed leaving this part of the Colony, and therefore must withdraw his subscription of 100l., and his grants of land. Though discouraged, we are resolved not to be cast down, but to make the greater exertions. Went to Colonel Dulton's, where we dined and slept. He takes up the Caledon Church very warmly.
Tuesday, Aug. 29.--Went in early to Caledon; found a good number, chiefly of the middle classes, come in for our Meeting. We had, I think, more than 50 persons present; nearly 120l. was raised in the room for a Church. It was decided to adopt one of the designs I had with me, likely to cost 600l., and calculated to hold 200 souls; many promised to collect in the District, and to write home to friends in England to assist; several pledged themselves also to increase their subscriptions, if needed; others offered timber, reeds, &c.; others, again, promised to draw materials: we also addressed a strong memorial to Government, praying for help: an excellent spirit prevailed throughout the Meeting, and all seemed thankful there was a prospect of having their spiritual wants supplied. Several persons, after the Meeting, spoke to me with much feeling of their wretched state in the entire absence of all means of grace, and contrasted their condition with what it had been in this respect in our own dear mother land, and in the bosom of our mother Church. One man brought two of his daughters twenty-five miles, and entreated me to confirm them. He had taken them down to Capetown to be confirmed, and they had been for some time under Mr. Lamb's instruction, who wrote to me in their favour; my lengthened illness compelled them to return: after some conversation with, and examination of them, I confirmed them. I also baptized two children of English emigrants. Captain Mackay, the resident Magistrate, gave us luncheon after the Meeting; and in the evening I returned with Captain Harder to Nethercourt, thankful for the result of the day, and in good hope that we shall shortly see the two Churches springing up so as to become a blessing to this desolate land. I received a note to say that Mr. Green had arrived by the Oriental, emigrant ship, and would follow me to act as chaplain.
Wednesday, Aug. 30.--Breakfasted this morning with Mr. Bayley, at the Oaks. Rode on afterwards about eighteen miles to the Moravian Institution, at Genadendal. The brethren and sisters received me very kindly. We arrived about twelve o'clock. As it was their dinner hour we sat down with them; they invited me to say grace, and sit at the head of the table: but I requested them not to regard my presence; they therefore sung their grace as usual, wry beautifully. They gave me the chickens, and Captain Earner the ham to carve, I believe, as a mark of respect. After dinner we went over the establishment, church, schools, workshop, &c. There are nearly 3,000 souls altogether in the place, and more than 600 children in the schools. There are nine young men from different tribes being educated as teachers, and with these I was pleased, though the amount of their information did not seem great. We heard, also, the boys and girls read and sing, and stayed some time in the infant school. There are eight brethren, with their wives and children; with several of these I was much pleased, and the more so because they did not appear to wish to exaggerate the amount of good done, or deny the defects of the Institution. Many of the Dutch, and some of the English find fault with the system as injurious to the farmers. They complain that they cannot get labourers to remain with them more than a month or two. To this I think it must be replied, that, when treated with kindness and consideration by their masters, they will be found as willing to live with them as at Genadendal. Captain Ranier, who lets his people see that he cares for them, making them comfortable, and looking after their moral and religious training, reading the Scriptures to them every morning before he goes to work, finds no difficulty, and several of these people are coming to reside on his farm. The Missionaries at Genadendal told me that there was but one genuine Hottentot in the Institution, so greatly has the race decreased. I was much surprised to find so miserable a library for the brethren's own use. There were scarcely any valuable books in it. Would to God the Church in this Colony could point to a work of equal importance with this, as the result of her own labours in the cause of Christ among the Heathen! The Institution is situated in a broad valley just under the mountains. The Missionaries are endeavouring to improve the place by planting. It is a peaceful, quiet spot. I bade farewell to it with regret, and promised to visit it again. The little children ran after our horses some way, crying out, "Dag our!" "Dag Mynheer!" (Good day, uncle; Good day, Sir.) * * * We returned to dinner at Mr. Bayley's, and came home in the dark.
Thursday, Aug. 31.--Rode off in the morning to the mountains, to see the forests, and to fix upon a site for the Zonder-Ende Church. We had some fine views from the hills; ordered some wood to be cut down for the Church, and paid several visits, both to the Dutch farmers and English labourers. All seemed rejoiced at the prospect of a Church, and promised to contribute to it. We fixed upon a spot on Linders Farm, where there are 150 coloured people, and, at no great distance, about the same number of English people.
Friday, Sept. 1.--Started at half-past six this morning, in Captain Earner's carriage, having sent my wagon on last evening to Mr. Vine's, where we breakfasted this morning: he has a large family, and several English labourers; and all are living without the public means of grace; they will, however, be only six miles from our new Church. After breakfast we journeyed on, passing through a country in all respects similar to that we had left: an open hilly country, covered with heath and bushes, capable of sustaining a much larger population than at present occupies it. A large portion of this land might be brought under the plough, and the remainder would support a great deal more stock than there is at present upon it. In the distance, the mountains may be seen stretching all the way to Swellendam. There are scarcely any trees, but a succession of slopes and hills. We outspanned at another English farmer's, Mr. Twentyman, who has also several English families; and no Church or Clergyman of their own within 100 miles. In one of the cottages we found a poor English child of, we were told, about twelve years of age, lying in bed, apparently dying. She did not pray, and said she could not; she knew not what prayer was, nor could she read. We spoke seriously to the parents upon their neglect, and, poor child! we all knelt down, and prayed for her. Her parents seemed much affected. We were detained here for some time, waiting for some children whom their parents anxiously desired us to baptize. This made us rather late. On the road we met the post, and received a very kind note from Dr. Robertson, the zealous Dutch minister of Swellendam, inviting me to take up my quarters at his house during my stay there. He had previously placed his Church at my disposal, for afternoon service on Sunday. The only opportunity our people here have of attending public worship is an afternoon service, established by Dr. B., especially for the English people. They have no Church or Clergyman of their own within 150 miles. God grant that my visit there may lead to a change in these things. Several of our people have joined the Dutch communion; but some are, I understand, still anxious to remain in the bosom of their mother Church, and have declined to forsake her, even though she seems to have forsaken them. About ten miles from Swellendam, and just as it was beginning to grow dusk, we met Dr. Robertson, who had most kindly driven out to meet me. We got into his light carriage, and arrived at his house about eight o'clock, where he had provided dinner for us, and invited some of the leading English to meet us. I had a good deal of conversation with him. He is evidently a very intelligent, earnest, active man, and is most deservedly respected by every one. Indeed his character stands as high as any Dutch minister in the Colony. I feel the great delicacy both of my position, and of the state of things in general. May God give me grace so to act and speak, as not in any way to compromise His truth, nor yet give offence to those who differ; and may He dispose the hearts of His people here to make efforts for the erection of the House of God, and the support of a fixed Ministry!
Saturday, Sept. 2.--We held our Meeting to-day in the vestry of the Dutch Reformed Church. It was not well attended, many of the members of the Church holding back, as I was given to understand, lest their presence should be considered as a slight upon Dr. Robertson. There was a long discussion as to what was to be done. The circumstances of this place are very peculiar. The Church people have been left entirely to themselves. They know not how to procure a pastor; one gentleman did engage a Clergyman as tutor to his children, but he did not give satisfaction, or undertake any pastoral work. A separation soon took place, and Dr. R. took pupils. He has been the friend, the adviser, and the minister of our people. There is, therefore, naturally no sanguine feeling about our Church people, and they feel timid, and afraid to act, and wish, before committing themselves, to see how a Clergyman will act. They however formed a Committee for raising funds, both for Clergyman and Church. Upwards of 60l. a-year for five years was subscribed in the room, and the parties undertake to raise 100l, in the hope that Government will give another 100l. a-year. At present the Government Schoolroom will be used for Divine service. Considerable confidence was expressed that, if the Clergyman gave satisfaction, a church would speedily be raised for him; and I have no doubt that such would be the case. They fixed on a plan for the Church. Whoever comes here will have a very important and difficult post; he will need a truly Christian spirit, much judgment and discretion, activity, zeal, patience, temper--and a disposition to conciliate, without compromise. Several persons applied for confirmation. Dr. Robertson spoke of them as highly respectable people, and religiously disposed; both Mr. Green and myself therefore undertook to prepare them as well as we could during the day, and I resolved to hold a confirmation to-morrow.
Sunday, Sept. 3.--Dr. Robertson this morning accepted in a most Christian spirit my excuses for not attending his services. At twelve o'clock, immediately after the Dutch morning service, we held our first service; as we were to hold a second service, of which only notice had been given at three o'clock, I was unable to have the full morning service; I therefore commenced with the Litany, and after that confirmed the candidates. We had a table brought out in front of the pulpit, which served as our Altar. There was a very respectable congregation, and they were very attentive. At three o'clock, our service began, of which previous notice had been given. The Church was full; we had evening prayer, and Holy Communion; I preached; thirteen communicants presented themselves: most, or all of those who, having no minister of their own, are in the habit of communicating with the Dutch Church, did not present themselves. Instead of being surprised at this, I am more surprised at the hold which the Church still has upon the minds of so many of her children, whom she has utterly abandoned. I am surprised, I own, to find them trader these circumstances raising 100l. a-year for five years for a Clergyman, readily and cheerfully. May God in His mercy raise up a faithful zealous pastor for this long-neglected portion of the vineyard. My visit here has been a most interesting--most painfully interesting one.
Monday, Sept. 4.--I trust there is some chance of our getting two Clergymen here--one for this place, and one for Port Beaufort, to educate Mr. Barry's children, and others; and to minister to the people there, and at Rivers-dale. I have also engaged to furnish the plans for a small Church there. We started this morning in Mr. Barry's cart, having sent our wagon on, and breakfasted with Captain Buchanan, who has a very pretty place, just facing the mountains. * * * *
Tuesday, Sept. 5.--Started at six in the morning; out-spanned at nine, lighted a fire on the grass, and had breakfast. I enjoyed our primitive mode of living very much. Arrived at Biversdale about one o'clock. The village is prettily situated, and is increasing rapidly; our whole route to-day lay through the same kind of country as before; but the hills are more beautiful, rising one above another with a fine mountainous back-ground. I observe the heaths are beginning to blow. The acting Magistrate, Mr. Hudson, rode out, with an English gentleman, about three miles to meet us, and we found comfortable quarters at Villiers. There were only three persons at our Meeting, these three gentlemen having resolved themselves into a Committee, for the erection of a Church and supply of a Clergyman; but it was determined in the first instance to raise a sufficient sum to entitle them to have service once a-month from the Clergyman of Port Beaufort and Swellendam, and they thought they could raise 60l. a-year. After the Meeting, we went into the village to call upon the English people, and made out that there were about 100. Some of them seemed very respectable people, and most anxious for a Clergyman. We also inspected the Government School, where there were tea children. The coloured children are not allowed to come till three o'clock, when the white are dismissed; were this not done, the Dutch would withdraw their children. We called on the Dutch Clergyman, who seemed a respectable man. I was unwilling to quit this village without some religious service, our people having no Church of their own within 200 miles. I therefore sent Mr. Green after dinner to ask for the use of the magistrate's office, and we let the English people know that there would be evening prayer and sermon at half-past seven. We had a full room; Mr. Green read the prayers, and I preached to them extempore for half-an-hour; they were very attentive.
Wednesday, Sept. 6.--Left Riversdale at six o'clock this morning; breakfasted at a Dutch farm, La Grange (two hours); outspanned at Tiger Fontein (two hours); slept at Gronge's Stink River (four hours). The country, in its general features, was very similar to what we had passed through. In some parts, however, as at the Goaritz River, (which really is a river,) it is more beautiful, though there is a great want of trees. The natural roads are for the most part excellent, though in many places very rough. At the Goaritz River we all had to keep the wagon from rolling over, by pulling it straight with a rope. We are very fortunate in the beautiful weather we have had; one day's rain would probably have kept us several days on the banks of this river: we cannot, therefore, be too thankful for the lovely weather we have enjoyed. I have now been out a fortnight, and every day has been fine. We have passed very few houses: the land, however, is clearly capable of bearing a much larger population, and all that is wanting is capital and industry.
Thursday, Sept. 7.--Passed a sleepless and excited night. I had hoped air and exercise, and fatigue, were restoring my nerves, but I find I am not so well as I imagined. Started at nine for Mossel Bay, where we arrived at half-past twelve o'clock. About seven miles from the bay we were met by Mr. Marsh, the resident magistrate, Mr. Van Reynen, the Dutch Minister, and Mr.------. No one else came to meet us, Mr. Marsh having invited all the principal residents to a sumptuous tiffin. He told me most of the English were, he thought, Dissenters: but falling in with a Mr. Elliot before dinner, who I understood was a Churchman, I soon found from him that there were many people who were anxious for a Church and Minister. He told me he would guarantee 100l. a-year to a Clergyman, provided he would take pupils. I encouraged him to form a committee, to raise the means for Church and Pastor; the committee to correspond with me, and memorialize Government for 100l. a-year. I doubt not I shall soon hear from him on the subject. We left at four, and arrived about half-past five at Class Neegers Hartenbosch. The situation of Mossel Bay is very beautiful. The bay itself is a fine one; and the mountains which surround it, and lie at the back of George, are bold and commanding. Upon leaving the bay, the valley and river of Hartenbosch opened out very beautifully; and as the sun was just setting, and there was a little rain, we had before us a scene very like one of Claude's. After taking a lesson in Dutch, by reading the Testament with some of the family here, we retired early to prepare for our journey on the morrow.
Friday, Sept. 8.--We had a magnificent view of the mountains, with the early sun upon them, this morning, during the first part of our day to the Great Braack River, where we outspanned, and lighted our fire for a country breakfast, the freedom and independence of which we greatly enjoyed. Afterwards we ascended the hills before us by a near road, through a fine part of the valley. The roads in this part of the country are being fast improved. What is most wanting is the bridging of the rivers; many of those we have passed would, with a little rain, be so swollen as to detain travellers for days; even as it is, our horses were on several occasions nearly compelled to swim. The road from these hills to George lies over a flat, uncultivated country. I was disappointed in the appearance of George, which is a long straggling village, containing about 2,000 souls. There is a large ugly unfinished Dutch church, to which Government has just given 1000l., a Romish chapel, and at least one other of no definite sect. Mr. Scott the English Clergyman, Mr. Aspinel the Civil Commissioner, and several other gentlemen were waiting to receive us. We had very comfortable quarters at a lodging-house; a good many people called, and as we had an hour or two to spare, and I knew not when we should have another, I went to return their calls, to look into the schools, and to see some of the members of the English Church, Mr. Scott accompanying us. He afterwards dined with us, and we took tea at his house: on returning to our lodgings, I found Mr. Dulhie had arrived from the Knysna, accompanied by Mr. Bull, the Catechist of the place, to conduct me to his house.
Saturday, Sept. 9.--A sleepless night, notwithstanding a strong opiate, from the excitement of yesterday, consequently I felt very stupid all day. At eleven o'clock we held our Confirmation in the Dutch Church; 35 were confirmed. I was pleased with their reverent and devout manner; some seemed much affected. After service was over, we held a meeting in the Court-house about our new Church. It was well attended, and a plan for the Church was adopted, though the funds as yet contributed are not sufficient for its erection. I also brought under the notice of the meeting the Church Society we have just formed, and distributed copies of the rules. We cannot, however, expect many contributions to general purposes, while local Efforts are so greatly required; but I trust that, when oat Churches are built, we shall be able to raise funds for Missions, Churches, Schools, &c. Being unable to cross in. the afternoon, owing to the rain, to see the Montagu Pass, I spent my time in writing, and in visiting a few more of our Church people. * * * * I grieve to see the heart-burnings and ,strife which exist between the English and Dutch Communion in this place.
Sunday, Sept. 10.--Preached this morning in the Dutch Church to an excellent congregation; administered the Holy Communion to about twenty-five persons: spoke plainly, but affectionately to them upon, their own want of love, and earnestly entreated them to cultivate a spirit of charity. In the afternoon I examined Mr. Scott's Sunday School, and in the evening preached again to about two hundred Dutch and English. The people seemed very attentive, and most of the Dutch understand the English language.
Monday, Sept. 11.-- * * * * After breakfast I went to examine the Government School, but had not time to go through it. I thought their religious knowledge very imperfect. My wagon being pronounced too weak for the Knysna roads, I was obliged to hire another, which was taken out by oxen, which were kindly furnished by several gentlemen. "We started on horseback about eleven, accompanied by several gentlemen, who wished to ride part of the way with us. We went a little way out of our road to visit the Missionary Institution of Pakalsdorp. There are about 750 souls here, living as usual in mud or wattle huts; from 150 to 200 of these have been baptized, the remainder are still Heathen, though many of them attend the public services which the Missionaries hold. I here found the most Church-like looking edifice I have seen in the Colony. It has a tower of very respectable proportions, and is built entirely of stone, and without a covering of plaster, which disfigures every other Church I have yet seen. There is an old Missionary here with his daughter, and a younger Missionary; the old man is 80, and past working. The universal opinion, in this neighbourhood is, that the time has come for giving up these institutions, and allowing them to merge into the parochial system; but I am inclined to think that a few years must first elapse, allowing for a considerable increase of Clergymen during that period. There are two schools here, but the children had gone to their dinners. The Institution is built on Government land, a considerable tract of which they are allowed the use of. The London Missionary Society also, whose agents they are, possesses, adjoining to the Institution, a farm of about 10,000 acres of land. After leaving this we rode over hill and dale, and through some fine wooded valleys and rivers, to Mr. Dumbleton's, a distance of about 20 miles: much of the country put me in mind of our Yorkshire coast, but we have not in England the fine range of mountains which accompanied us all the way on our left. After arriving at Mr. D.'s, I walked out with him for a mile or two to look at some lakes, formed partly by the sea, and partly by rivers: the scenery was picturesque, but they are by no means equal to our English lakes.
Tuesday, Sept. 12.--Left Mr. D.'s after breakfast, and rode through a beautiful country, 30 miles to Mr. Duthie's, at Belvidere, on the banks of the Knysna: our route lay at first along the borders of the chain of lakes which I saw yesterday. We had some very beautiful views of them up and down from several points. After leaving them we travelled through, a sandy valley, covered with heath, geranium, and a variety of flowers not yet fully blown, till we arrived at a forest. Here I found finer timber than I had yet seen in the Colony. The yellow-tree, a most useful wood for building purposes, grows to a large size, and is a very picturesque tree; it is usually covered with a kind of pendant moss, which improves its appearance. Here also we found the wild vine growing over forest trees, and spreading its arms like the vine when cultivated. It is, however, a different plant, and produces a sour kind of fruit, which is preserved like the cherry in brandy, and is used instead of currant jelly. The forest too was covered with a kind of sapling1, which shoots from the ground, and lays hold on the brandies of great trees. It has the appearance of a thick rope fastening the trees to the ground, and is called the monkey ladder. The forest abounds with monkeys and baboons, but we did not see any. The Castor-oil plant grows herein great abundance; I observed several new flowers, none of them however of any great- beauty. We crossed several rivers, some of which were deep, their banks are high and rocky, and well wooded. In one my horse was nearly driven to swim, the water pouring over the tops of my horse-guard boots. We arrived about sunset at Belvidere, and had a beautiful view of the Knysna: here there is a fine sheet of water, which forms the basin of a harbour, but the beauty of the scene is somewhat spoiled by the low land which rises up in several places, giving the lake the appearance of being marshy. The harbour would. I believe, be a fine one, were it not for the entrance, which is very narrow, and lies between high rocks. I like, however, what I have seen of this neighbourhood very much: it is a fine country, and has great capabilities; it is better wooded too than any part of the Colony I have yet seen. Mr. Duthie's house borders on the lake, and has a beautiful prospect before it. Mr. Bull (catechist), who is also tutor to Mr. D.'s children, is happily situated in this excellent family, and is esteemed by all for his zeal and earnestness.
Wednesday, Sept, 13.--After breakfast this morning we rode in a heavy rain to Portlands, ten miles, where Mr. Bull had fixed for me to hold a service; and where he had some candidates for baptism. The place is one of his monthly stations. Mr. Duthie dressed me out in a very long Mackintosh, and I exchanged my hat for an oil-skin jockey-cap, which had no very episcopal appearance. Notwithstanding all, however, I soon got wet. The country we passed through was very beautiful, and we had some good views of the water, as the weather partially cleared up. There were about thirty persons present, most of them coloured, to whom I preached extempore, as simply as I could, from Ephes. ii. 1-5: we returned to Belvidere by four o'clock, and we had another service in the evening, when I again preached: we had also an adult heathen prepared for baptism by Mr. Bull, whom I baptized.
Thursday, Sept. 14.--After breakfast, walked out with Mr. Duthie, to determine upon the site of the Belvidere Church. We fixed upon a beautiful spot, commanding a very fine view of the lake. Mr. Dnthie also gives land for a parsonage. We decided upon one of Butterfield's plans for the Church, which is to hold 100; bat is capable of enlargement. At one o'clock, four gentlemen came over from the other side, dressed in their Jerseys, and with flags flying, to row me over the lake. As we arrived at Melville various flags were hoisted. After calling upon several of the inhabitants we rode out, a tolerably large party, to Mr. Hex, and thence to Mr. Sutherland's to dine and sleep.
Friday, Sept. 15.--We started early this morning for Plettenberg Bay, where I am to hold two services, and fix upon the site of the Church. The morning service, when I preached, was held in Mr. Newdigate's house: no notice had been given, but we had about twenty persons present. After service we rode to Captain Sinclair's at the bay, for afternoon service; but as no notice had been given here, it was found impossible to collect the people, and we walked on to Captain Barker's, at the Residency, where I was to dine and sleep. The country between the Knysna and Plettenberg Bay is well wooded and very hilly, and I think as fine a part of the colony as any that I have yet seen. I observed here the India-rubber tree growing in one or two gardens. Mr. Newdigate's farm is situated in a lovely valley.
Saturday, Sept. 16.--Walked out early with Capt. Harker, over the Residency farm. The house has a famous hall which as a church would hold 200 people. After breakfast we mounted our horses to return to Melville, where I had appointed the public meeting to be held. We had a very warm ride of twenty miles; our meeting, which was well attended, passed off most satisfactorily. We shall, I trust, ere long have three churches in this parish, one at Belvidere, one at Melville, and one at Knysna. The Melville Church, for which I have furnished the plans, is to be begun immediately, and a further subscription is to be raised for the support of the Clergyman. It already amounts to about 50l. Mr. Sutherland, who has built a school here, has applied to me for a teacher. I trust I may soon be able to send both Clergyman and Schoolmaster to this district. In the evening we returned to Mr. Sutherland's, who had invited a large party of the neighbouring gentlemen to meet us.
Sunday, Sept. 17.--A sleepless night--feverish from the extreme heat of yesterday. This day was also extremely warm. After breakfast, I walked to the school which Mr. Sutherland has just built, and where our services are held for the present, a distance of about three miles. The schoolroom was decked out with flowers, and was soon filled to overflowing with a devout congregation. I observed no less than nine wagons, several of the Dutch families having come in for our services. I confirmed 27 persons, chiefly adults, who bad been very carefully prepared by Mr. Bull; many, both males and females, were deeply affected, and all, I believe, felt that the services were exceedingly interesting; certainly a very solemn feeling pervaded our assembly. I could not help expressing my gratitude to God for the sight before me. A congregation of 130 souls, 30 communicants, 27 candidates for confirmation, where only a few months before there were no public means of grace, no Clergyman within 150 miles, no Church within 360. In the afternoon, we had another full congregation. I preached and baptized several children after the second lesson.
Monday, Sept. 18.--Rose at five o'clock this morning, intending, if possible, to reach Mr. Sontag's farm at Avonteuer in the Lange Kloof by evening, but doubtful whether we could accomplish it. We started a party of about twelve, several gentlemen being anxious to accompany us part of the way, and Mr. George Rex and Mr. Sutherland intending to proceed the whole way with us. After about an hour's journey we arrived at the Queen's forest, through which we were to pass by a road or path recently cut out by the road commissioners, under the direction of Mr. Sutherland. Here most of the gentlemen took leave of us. I could not part from them without thanking them, warmly and sincerely, for their kind attentions and hospitality during my short visit amongst them. Prom the time that I arrived at George till the hour I reached Avonteuer, I have never moved without being attended by one or more of these gentlemen: others have sent their oxen for ray wagon, and I have not been permitted to be at any expense while amongst them. After parting from our kind friends, we dived into the forest, which extends a distance of many miles. Where we crossed it, it was eleven miles broad. The timber in this forest is very fine, and has for the most part probably never been touched since the creation. Here and there we saw huge trees lying about and perfectly rotten; others still standing were of a very large girth. The chief kind of wood were the Assegai iron tree, stink wood, yellow wood, ash, white elm. The stink wood is, when cut into, perfectly black. The yellow wood is by far the largest tree, and is of immense size. We saw no wild animals, though the forest abounds in elephants, buffaloes, leopards, hyenas, wild boars, &c. We saw the spoor of the elephant, and his tracks, and we met a farmer who had seen 'three on Friday, and Mr. Sutherland saw five on his return a day or two after in the forest. A thunder-storm came on, and the lightning was very vivid; one flash came close to us, and this, with the instantaneous clap of thunder, so frightened our horses that they bounded under us and ran away, Mr. Green's horse throwing him. After emerging from the forest, the weather cleared up, and we found ourselves in an open country, amidst heath bush ten or twelve feet high, with magnificent views all around us. The picture, indeed, was very striking; the clouds hanging round the mountains showed them to the best advantage, and the effect of light and shade was very beautiful. After riding about five hours we came to a farm, where fresh horses had been provided for us: we then proceeded over a totally different country from that which we had just left. For the rest of the day we scarce saw a tree, but passed over several distinct ranges of mountains. Here the scenery was very wild and magnificent, and put me more in mind of some parts of Switzerland, than any other portion of the Colony I have yet seen. Night overtook us in the mountains, and we did not arrive at Avonteuer till eight o'clock in the evening, and then found that our wagon, which had left for Avonteuer on Friday, had not yet arrived. Here we learnt that we had a second mercy to be thankful for, on this day. Mr.------ had set three spring guns on the very path by which we reached his house, to shoot a tiger which has of late been destroying his flocks. This has been to me one of the most interesting days I have passed in the Colony. Let me feel thankful to Almighty God, that I am able to endure so much fatigue as I have done in this long day's journey, without suffering from it.
Tuesday, Sept. 19.--Rose early this morning to visit the Missionary Institution at Avonteuer, belonging to the London Society. The Missionary's name is Mr. Hood, who is at the same time schoolmaster, doctor, and farmer. He seems an intelligent and right-minded man. There are about 500 people of all ages connected with the establishment, which is conducted on somewhat different principles from any that I have yet seen. The people have an allotment of about three acres of garden or arable land, which . is leased to them for twenty years, with a right of renewal, at a rent of thirty shillings a-year. Upon this they build their own houses; they have in addition a right of pasturage over the farm, and others pay ten shillings a-year for a smaller allotment. This Institution, like all the rest, is very unpopular with the farmers, chiefly on the score of their inability to get labourers from them. The right is retained by the Institution of dismissing improper characters, who are however entitled to compensation for improvements. I find I shall not be able to visit either the London Missionary Society's Institution at Hankey, or the Moravian at Clarkson, as they both lie out of my way, and I am anxious to be at Uitenhage on Saturday. We drove through the Lange Kloof, which is a valley between mountains, through abominable roads to Rademeger, at Londwater, where we slept. Here I found a schoolmaster who, as is frequently the case in country parts in the Colony, was engaged in teaching several Dutch farmers' families. Mr. Scott, of George, wrote to me some time since about receiving him into the Church. He was brought up a Roman Catholic, but partly through reading the Scriptures, partly the Prayer Book, and partly Slant's Lectures on the Articles, became convinced of the errors of the Church of Rome. He had been most anxious to be confirmed by me at George, but was taken ill upon the road; I therefore confirmed him this evening, and gave him some Prayer Books, out of which he has been in the habit of teaching his Dutch pupils, and which he uses in performing service on Sundays, which he has been in the habit of doing. The poor man seemed very thankful, and very earnest about himself, and is a striking instance of the way in which God makes up by extraordinary methods the grace that cannot be supplied by ordinary means. Mr. Scott spoke very well of him, as did Mr. George Rex, who knew him well.
Wednesday, Sept. 20.--An early start at six o'clock. Our road still lay through the Lange Kloof, and was, if possible, worse than our yesterday's route. The only object of interest to-day was the sight of some Kaffir cranes, which are elegant and beautiful birds. About the middle of the day we passed from the Lange Kloof to the Kromme river, and at the same time from the George to the Uitenhage district. We passed several farms, with a scattered population. The general features of the country are like yesterday's--a valley lying between high and bare hills.
Thursday, Sept. 21.--Rose at five; outspanned for breakfast at ten o'clock at Eschenbosch. Roads still very bad country somewhat tame. Outspanned again at two at Moulinans, and arrived at six at Hurnan, where we slept. The weather is still beautiful, and our roads have greatly improved, the country not having been torn up by the rains.
Friday, Sept. 22.--Breakfasted this morning at Captain Boys', St. Francis Bay. He and his sister Mrs. Macintosh, with their families, are separated from the public means of grace by a distance of fifty miles. Captain Boys reads on Sundays the service of the Church. They seemed anxious about a Clergyman, and the education of their children. I baptized their youngest child. Captain Boys rode on with us to Mr. Barnard's, where we had luncheon. The country this day has been flat and uninteresting, till we passed the Kamtoos river, when we entered upon a hilly and well wooded country; we crossed the Kamtoos by a ferry; the wind blowing strong, and the tide rolling in, we had a somewhat rough passage; we slept at Field-Cornet Newkirk's.
Saturday, Sept. 23.--The first part of this day's journey was performed with oxen, the road being very difficult and precipitous; the views, however, were very beautiful, especially in passing the Kloof Bosch river. After passing through a well wooded and mountainous country for two hours, we arrived at an extensive plain, on which we out-spanned for breakfast, near a muddy stream, which supplied us with, water for our tea. This plain continued till we arrived near Uitenhage, which lies very prettily just under the hills. We reached our very comfortable quarters at about half-past one, accompanied by the civil commissioners, Mr. Bennett and Mr. Copeman, who had ridden out to meet us. We walked in the afternoon about the village, to fix upon a site for the Church; and my evening was spent in replying to the large packet of letters which I found awaiting my arrival.
Sunday, Sept. 24.--Our service in the morning was held as usual in the Court House, where about 100 were present. I preached from Luke xiv. 27: "And whosoever doth not bear his cross, and come after me, cannot be my disciple." In the evening we held service in the Dutch Church, which I was informed would be lent if wished. I preached again to a large and attentive congregation. My motive in using the Dutch Church was the hope that it might lead to a kindlier state of feeling than, unhappily, exists in this place.
Monday, Sept. 25.--We held our Confirmation this morning at twelve o'clock in the Dutch Church. There were fourteen candidates, a very small number considering the amount of the English population here. The Church was quite full, and many of the poor coloured people were standing round the door. I grieve that the prejudices which exist so strongly in other parts of the Colony, with respect to the coloured people, should be found here also, and that they should not be admitted to worship together with their white brethren, and to partake of all Christian ordinances with them. The feeling which keeps them at a distance is utterly unchristian, and those who indulge in it cannot look for God's blessing. At two o'clock I attended the Meeting of the parishioners, of which I had given notice in the Town Hall. I brought before them the subject of their Church, Clergyman's stipend, Churchyard, Church Society, &c. * * * Dined in the evening at Mr. Tennant's, civil commissioner, who had invited a party of gentlemen to meet me.
Tuesday, Sept. 26.-- * * * * At four o'clock I held a Meeting of the Church Building Committee, when I laid before them my suggestions as to the course to be immediately pursued with reference, to the Church, and their Minister's stipend; and also with relation to some other points. These were unanimously adopted, and will, I trust, be shortly acted upon. Dined in the evening with the judge, who came into the Tillage this morning on circuit, and called to invite me.
Wednesday, Sept. 27.--Wrote letters very early. After breakfast I went out with Mr. Copeman, to examine the Dutch School and the Government School. Paid a short visit to the Court; then made some calls; and started at one o'clock for Port Elizabeth. In our way visited the Missionary Institution at Bethelsdorf. The Society here (London) have about 24,000 acres of land. The Tillage consists of about 300 people, who have no other employment than attending to their cattle, there being scarcely any land fit to be cultivated on the farm. People seem to be dissatisfied with it. * * * We arrived at Port Elizabeth before six, and met Mr. M'Cleland, Mr. Herries, Mr. Frere, &c. who were waiting to receive us. Port Elizabeth has more of the appearance of an English place than any we have seen since we left Capetown; it reminds me forcibly of some of the new settlements springing up in so many places in our mother land, and is evidently rapidly rising in importance. I felt quite cheered at seeing anything so English; but my spirits were soon cast down by hearing that Church matters were not in a comfortable state.
Thursday, Sept. 28.--Early part of day spent in receiving visitors, surveying the town, with a view to the selection of sites for future Church, Schools, Parsonage, &c. At four o'clock attended a Meeting of the vestry; decided that I could not, under present circumstances, consecrate either church or churchyard.
Friday, Sept. 29.--Day spent in receiving the members of the Church and calling upon them; also endeavouring to settle some unfortunate differences which exist here, in which I trust I have been in some measure successful. Laus Deo. Dined with Mr. M'Cleland.
Saturday, Sept. 30.--This morning made some few more calls; at twelve o'clock held a Confirmation; fifty-two candidates presented themselves. There were fifty-three, but one at the last moment was unable to utter the solemn words "I do." I was glad to find that conscience withheld him, and trust it may please God to bring him to confess Christ before men at some future day. Our Confirmation here, as everywhere, is, I trust, likely to prove a blessing. Some Dissenters had issued a very bitter tract against the Church in general, and the holy service in particular, which had been distributed from house to house during my stay here. This probably drew a larger congregation, for Our Church was full; and I believe all felt the reality and solemnity of the sacred ceremony, so that we have no cause to regret the attack made upon us. After the Confirmation, I held a meeting of the members of the Church in the Town Hall, and submitted to them my views of their wants, and the method of supplying them. These related to the erection of a school, and another Church, and the supply of an additional Clergyman; I trust in due time all these things may be secured; I also drew their attention to the Church Society, and assigned to them my reasons for not being able to consecrate either church or churchyard during this Visitation. I trust that before I come again, the church and churchyard will be duly conveyed to the See, and a wall built round the latter.
Sunday, Oct. 1.--We had a crowded Church this morning; I preached from Matt. xxvi. 41. There were about seventy-five communicants; many of them were deeply affected, and shed tears. In the afternoon I attended the Sunday School. The children of this school have long been in the habit of contributing to pious objects. They made offerings for the lepers, while the institution was in their neighbourhood. Afterwards they supported a blind man. They were at a loss to know what next to contribute to. About six months since, when my pastoral letter came out, ordering collections for the Missions to the Heathen, the children then all resolved that they would support the Bishop's Missions, and to-day they brought me their offerings, amounting to 1l. 14s. I addressed the children on the subject of missions, and affectionately urged them, while endeavouring to bring the Heathen to Christ, themselves to live as His true disciples. Afterwards I examined them in the Catechism, and was pleased with their answers; and then I spoke to the Sunday School teacher. In the evening we had again a very full Church, when I preached to them from 2 Cor. iv. 3, 4; "But if our Gospel be hid, it is hid to them that are lost: in whom the god of this world hath blinded the minds of them which believe not, lest the light of the glorious gospel of Christ, who is the image of God, should shine unto them." The old and zealous clerk said the Church had never been so full before, nor had there been so many communicants. May God bless the services of the day to the good of the souls of this people!
Monday, Oct. 2.--I put off my hour of departure this morning from sis to eight o'clock, as several gentlemen kindly expressed a wish to accompany me on horseback a short distance from the town. Accordingly, at our hour of departure, the Civil Commissioner, Commander of Troops, Collector of Customs, Hon. Mr. Herries, and several other gentlemen appeared to escort us; and some others, who were unable to do so, came to Mr. Herries, who has most hospitably entertained me, to bid me farewell. I leave Port Elizabeth with a lighter heart than I entered it with, and not without hope that I may, ere long, see a new Church, and a second Clergyman there. We slept at a very comfortable English inn at the Sunday river, about thirty-five miles distant from the Bay. I brought Mr. M'Cleland with me in my wagon, for our meeting at Grahamstown.
Tuesday, Oct. 3.--This is my birthday. I have now completed my thirty-ninth year. May I not forget how rapidly time is passing, and eternity approaching. May I live daily as one who is shortly to give up his account to God! I daily feel more keenly my own insufficiency for the great charge entrusted to me. God give me wisdom, faithfulness, zeal, meekness, humility, love, patience, firmness, that I may be able to exercise my high office aright! I often think that when the rough work shall be over, and there may be a call for one possessing higher qualifications than myself, I shall be laid aside, and another better qualified to exercise the higher and more important functions of the episcopate be raised up. I pray of God to dispose of me in. any way, (whether by life or by death,) that may best serve for the promotion of His glory, the extension of the kingdom of my ever-blessed Redeemer, and the salvation of the souls for whom He died. I wish to live not a day longer than I can serve Him. This morning, at dawn of day, a little past five, had my first bath in African water, taking a swim with Green in the Sunday river. I found no harm result to my head from it. We drove through a bushy country, in which the Kaffirs have, during their inroads, frequently concealed themselves for a considerable time. While outspanning for breakfast,. Mr. M'Cleland fell in with a poor Hottentot in great distress: for three days the oxen of his wagon had strayed; his master had gone in search, of them, and had been out two nights; he had just found him raving with delirium on the bank of a hill about an hour off. An English fanner and some Hottentots had refused to assist him; and he was without provisions, with a wagon full of gunpowder, and fast giving way to despair. We went with him. to look for his master, and found him, as he described him, with his wooden leg, at some distance. With difficulty we got him to his wagon; I gave him some medicine, and afterwards some breakfast; and he fell asleep under a bush. We told the poor Hottentot, who cried with excitement and gratitude, not, to let him move, till we sent oxen, to fetch them from the first farm. At Quagga flat we fell in with an English shopkeeper who undertook to see to them, and we hired some oxen for them. Mr. Thorpe came to meet us at the Bushman river. We dined with the Judge at Sidbury. The Church here is neat, though not correct in point of architecture. It has never been finished, and has, I believe, not been cleaned since it was used as a fort, in the Kaffir war. We sent some people to clean the Church, whom Mr. Green assisted.
Wednesday, Oct. 4.--I confirmed four coloured children this morning. At one o'clock I held a meeting of the parishioners. * * *
Thursday, Oct. 5.--* * * Intimated my intention of making alterations in the boundary of the parish, which is hereafter to include Assegai Bush, Quagga flat, and Elephant's Hoek, where there are 250 English. At half-past ten recommenced our journey. Our route lay over a hilly, uninteresting country, devoid of wood, and with little bush till we came to Howison's Poort, which is a pretty valley. We arrived in Grahamstown about five o'clock. I like the appearance of the town, which is situated in a basin. I took a little walk round it before dinner. Church well situated, but miserable in point of architecture. The Kaffir boom abounds in the towns; the tree is a very beautiful one, nearly as large as the oak, and covered with a rich red flower. I soon heard here that Sir H. Smith was to meet the Kaffir chiefs on Saturday. I determined, if possible, to be there too. The distance is eighty-fire miles from Grahamstown, and some thought it impossible I should reach the place in time; but I remembered Sir H. Smith had, in this Colony, ridden 100 miles a-day for a week, and determined not to give it up. After dinner Mr. Heavyside and myself went to call upon Captain Somerset, Brigade Major, who kindly promised to furnish us with horses, and give us an order for relays upon the road. We then went to the Judge, to excuse ourselves from dining with him, which we had engaged to do. * *
Friday, Oct. 6.--Rose at four this morning, and ready for a start at five; our horses, however, were not quite punctual; my dress was anything but episcopal: white hat, leathers, and jack-boots, but it is impossible to be punctilious in these matters, on occasions like the present. Capt. Somerset accompanied us a few miles: our first stage was to Trumpeter's Drift, where there is an officer with twenty men; distance 33 miles: we arrived at ten o'clock, and had a cup of tea, and some bread and butter. Here we got fresh horses, and arrived at Port Peddie about one, distance 14 miles. After leaving Trumpeter's Drift, our horses had to swim the Great Fish river, and we found ourselves amongst the hills in a very bushy country, the scene of several contests between our troops and the Kaffirs. In one place we saw the scorched rocks where several of our wagons were burnt by the Kaffirs, when they took forty-three of them. The officer in command at Trumpeter's Drift pointed out this, and several other spots interesting to us on similar accounts. Among the hills we found the wild jasmine, a larger flower than the English, and equally sweet-scented; Strelitzia Regina, and several other beautiful flowers; also the wild asparagus, preferred by many to the cultivated plant. After ascending the hills we had an excellent road over the plains, and performed the greater part of our remaining journey at a hand gallop, which, notwithstanding the day was rather warm, I felt very exhilarating. At Fort Peddie we got some luncheon with Mr. Walters, son of Mr. Walters of Newcastle. The resident magistrate called upon me, and I had some conversation about a Church and Clergyman; two individuals offered 20l. each towards a Church; I requested him to have a list of contributors prepared for me on my return on Monday; also a plan of the village and country, that I might get a grant of land from the Governor: I arranged to hold a service at ten o'clock on Monday morning in the barrack-room, used also by the Methodists as a chapel. At two o'clock we started again on fresh horses in full gallop, Mr. Walters accompanying us; we stopped for a few minutes at the Kaffir police station. There were 30 men here with their wives (some of them have two or three) and children. They were a very fine well-proportioned set of men, and are employed to recover cattle stolen by their countrymen. While in our pay they are very faithful; there are altogether more than 200 of them on the frontier, who with their families must exceed 1,000 souls. Nothing is done for their religious improvement or the education of their children, except by occasional visits from the Wesleyan Missionary. They were smoking and laughing, and seemed much amused with our visit to them. We arrived about half-past three o'clock at Line Drift, where we obtained fresh horses. This station is close by the Keiskamma river, which was low to-day, but exhibited manifest proofs of being at times swollen to a great height. We passed during the day by several Fingoe villages; their huts are like pikes of hay, rather rotten. The Keiskamma divides the Colony from Kaffraria: the Kraal of the Kaffir, several of which we passed, is very similar to the village of the Fingoe. We arrived in King William's Town at seven o'clock in the evening, and found the place illuminated by bonfires we reported ourselves immediately to Col. Mackinnon who kindly offered me a bed, but we accepted a similar offer from Capt. Bissen, who could accommodate us both. I soon dressed, and after taking tea, went to see the Governor, whom I was rejoiced to find well. I am very thankful that I came here. The officers have presented a memorial to the Governor about a Church; he has promised them 20l. The Wesleyans are making great efforts; they, too, presented a memorial to his Excellency. I understand two out of the three who presented it said they were Churchmen, until they despaired of anything being done by the Church. I had a good deal of conversation with the officers about the Church, and some grants of land for which I shall apply; I encouraged them in their good work, with promises of assistance. I do not feel in the least tired with my day's work, but poor Mr. H. seems very much fatigued.
Saturday, Oct. 7.--The meeting of the Kaffir chieftains was fixed for twelve o'clock this day, but from an early hour in the morning they came pouring in with their trains of followers, some on horseback, others on foot, through the various roads which, from different parts of the country, meet at King William's Town. Their appearance, dressed in their dirty blankets, and with long sticks or wands in their hands, brass armlets on their arms, and huge strings of beads or bone around their necks, was highly picturesque. Long before twelve the whole town was in a state of great bustle and excitement; and groups of these fine-looking savages were formed in every direction. The first chief I met was John Chatzo, the man whom Dr. Phillips took to England with him, but who afterwards was one of the foremost in the late war with us, for which the Governor at the meeting gave him a severe rebuke. He was dressed in a suit like that of our London police. He told me that he was a Christian; and that he preached himself, but had very small congregations. At about half-past eleven I went again to the Governor's lodgings, with whom I had previously breakfasted, and met there the Chief Umhala, with whom he was conversing. He explained to him who I was, and tried to impress upon him what a very great man a Bishop is, and how much higher his office is than that of other ministers of religion; which he illustrated by a long and short stick. At twelve o'clock we walked in procession to the place of meeting, I on the Governor's right hand, Colonel Mackinnon, the Chief Commissioner, on his left. As we approached, the band struck up, "God save the Queen," and the chieftains hurraed. We found them sitting in a kind of semicircle, beyond which there was another large semicircle of their swarthy followers. There were about thirty chiefs present, and three females. The chiefs were dressed in all kinds of odd dresses; one was in a richly embroidered military surtout; another in a military jacket; a third in a shooting jacket of velvet. Sandilli, the paramount chief, was in a plaid shooting jacket; others were in old and cast-off clothes; one only wore a blanket; but none of the followers in the rear had any other vestment. The Governor, as soon as silence was restored, made a long speech to them, which was ably and energetically interpreted by Mr. Shepstone. He addressed them as chieftains or children; he told them there would be no change in their condition--(for they had got an idea that there would be an alteration)--and stuck into the ground a great stick of office, for which they have a great respect, to show that the law would not be changed. He pointed out to them the evils of the late war, and the blessing of peace--scolded them for one thing, praised them for another--and addressed them at one time in a tone of great authority and sternness, and then changed his manner, using expressions of kindness. During his speech he called upon the various Commissioners and the tribes to say how the Kaffirs had conducted themselves--they all expressed their entire satisfaction. Afterwards the Governor returned the wand of office to Colonel Mackinnon, an officer of very high character, and who has given entire satisfaction, I believe, to all who are under his government. He then called upon the chiefs to speak, if they had anything to say. Sandilli, Macomo, Umhala, made short speeches, expressive of their delight at seeing Sir Harry amongst his children, and regretting the absence of Kreli When they had done, the Governor told them that the Great Father of the Christians--the Lord Bishop--the chief Minister, in this land, of the Church and religion of our Queen, who was appointed to teach him and all in this land the way to heaven, and to whom all the Christians looked up as their great chief (Inkosi Inkulu) in religion, had ridden ninety miles yesterday from Grahamstown, to be present at this meeting--that he had come to ask them how he could do them good, and especially to see if he could establish schools amongst them, or send ministers to them, and that they must talk the matter over amongst themselves, and promise to help to support their teachers, by giving a calf or something else to feed them--and let him and me know in what way we could serve them. After this I addressed them to the same effect, assuring them of my earnest desire to see them become Christians, and of my readiness, in the name of the Church of England, to send them ministers of God to teach them the way to heaven. A female chieftain and Umhala both replied, saying, that they never had so great a man of God come before amongst them, and they knew not what to reply; but they wished for schools, and to be taught to know God. We then returned to Sir Harry's lodgings, and the chiefs came about us; we had a long talk with them. He kept them some time, laughing and joking with them, and I served out water to them, as they were very thirsty. One chief, Boteman, begged hard for a blanket, when Sir Harry told him he was an idle beggar; he made signs to me in a most ludicrous way to beg for linen, supposing, after all he had heard the Governor say of me, that I must have great influence with him. To get rid of him, I promised him a blanket, and Mr. Heavyside took him off to buy one; but finding he would have none but the best and most expensive, left him at the store without any. He soon, however, found me out again at Capt. Bissett's, and I was obliged to send for the best blanket. Afterwards Sandilli came in, and he begged for a fine tiger skin on the sofa. Both asked for spirits. In the afternoon I prepared some ladies for confirmation, then went to baptize a child. Dined with the officers of the Rifle Brigade, who gave a dinner to Sir Harry. There was much speaking, from which I did not escape.
Sunday Oct. 8.--We were to have had a service on parade this morning at nine o'clock, when I was to have addressed the soldiers; but the morning being wet, we were obliged to give up that service, and content ourselves with one in the band-room, when I preached and administered the Holy Communion. We had a congregation of about 200, and fifteen communicants; our Offertory collection for a Church exceeding 120l. At two o'clock I formed a Sunday School. There were upwards of twenty children; some officers with their ladies undertook the management of it. In the afternoon we had Divine service again, and I confirmed seven candidates; in the evening I had a long conversation with Kreli. the paramount chief, Mr. Shepstone kindly interpreting. Umhala, the ablest of the Kaffir chiefs, was present, but he said but little, being very sleepy.
Another chief, of not very good character, and two of Kreli's counsellors, were of the party. Kreli sat in the arm-chair, Umhala on a chair, the rest squatted on the ground; none wore anything but a blanket. Kreli is a tall man, with rather a good countenance and a fine eye; but he is not regarded as a man of any ability: he has just given cattle to the amount of 300l., to repay the loss sustained by the Missionaries, in the destruction of their property during the late war. I asked Kreli if he were a Christian? He replied, No. If any of his people were? Yes. (He has 60,000 under him, and there are 70,000 in British Kaffraria, of which Sandilli is the paramount chief, having 25,000 under him. The two great tribes in British Kaffraria are the Slambi and Gaika.)--Why he was not a Christian? He was not good enough.--I thought he showed signs of being a good man, in giving cattle to pay for the missing property which his people had destroyed; he seemed pleased.--I hoped it would not he long before he became a Christian? He did not know what he was to do to become a Christian.--Repent of sin, and believe in Christ. What was sin?--Here we closed the conversation, for I was afraid of giving a false impression, having no good interpreter. We conversed through the medium of three languages I speaking to Captain Bissett in English, he to his servant girl, John Chatzo's daughter (a petty chief), and she to Kreli in the Kaffir language. We determined to wait for Mr. Shepstone's arrival, whom we sent for. After he came, the conversation was renewed, but I did not think that any one of them had much knowledge of the Christian religion, or cared about it. Kreli did not appear to believe in a future state, or in fact in anything. After talking with him for some time on religion, I found he was getting tired of it, so I dropped the subject. He then asked me about England, &c. I offered to take him there; he said he was afraid of the sea. I then offered to educate his boy, and said he should come and live with me. He replied, "If so, I must take father and mother too." I said, "Very well, come and pay me a visit." He asked how far it was to Capetown, and said it was too far. I told him, that perhaps next year I should pay him a visit, for I thought of riding up to Natal, through his country. We separated about ten o'clock. The Governor had left before Kreli arrived; Kreli rode after him, and the Governor gave him a saddle and a fine horse, and one of his coats he told me afterwards he was delighted with his conversation with him.
Monday, Oct. 9.--Started this morning at five o'clock on our return to Grahamstown, Captain and Mrs. Bissett accompanying us for the first few miles. We travelled, as before, at a gallop, and accomplished nearly forty miles before half-past nine, when we arrived at Port Peddie, where I found the Governor, and had a short conversation with him. I fixed upon the site of church, school, and parsonage, which Sir H. ordered to be immediately surveyed. At eleven o'clock I held service in a barrack-room, used by the Wesleyans for their service. It was quite full, and there could not have been loss than 100 souls, including the troops. I was told that all the whites in the place, except a Romanist and Presbyterian, were there. After the service Mr. H. baptized several children. I afterwards endeavoured to form a committee for the erection of a Church, towards which I was offered on the spot 50l. At one we started again, and arrived before three at Trumpeter's Drift; leaving which at four o'clock, we reached Grahamstown about eight in the evening; thankful for God's merciful protection of us during our very interesting expedition, and neither of us in the least degree fatigued. I am very glad that I made this journey, for I believe it will be for the furtherance of the Gospel. In all probability I should never have had such another opportunity of being introduced, under favourable circumstances, to these chiefs. Now I trust the way is paved for future missions of the Church of England, should we be able to enter upon the work. In point of fact I have opened a communication in one case, which appears not unlikely to afford a promising field. But where are the men for this work, and where the means for their support? Another reason why I am thankful to have gone at this particular moment to King William's Town is, because it was a critical moment for our Church. Here, as in every other place in this Colony, we were on the eve of losing our people through neglect. Churchmen, despairing about their own Church, were raising funds for a Wesleyan chapel. Out of three who waited upon the Governor on this account, two were Churchmen. My visit has, I trust, roused and encouraged the minds of our people. Several have undertaken to raise funds, both in the Colony and amongst friends in England; and a Church to hold 400 has been decided upon. God grant we may soon have a faithful Minister there! It is a very rising place, and a most important station for us to occupy. Here must be the centre of our future missionary operations. May we, at no distant day, see a band of zealous men penetrating, from this point, into some of these strongholds of Satan, and rescuing from the snare of the Evil One the poor Heathen who are now led captive by him at his will!
Tuesday, Oct. 10.--We have prayers at half-past seven every morning, and prayers and sermon every evening, during this week. I have appointed the Clergy to preach in turns before me. After breakfast I spent some time in replying to letters. The remainder of the day was employed in receiving visitors, calling with the Judge upon Col. Somerset, visiting the Government School, and in Mr. Long's examination for Priest's Orders.
Wednesday, Oct. 11.-- Early prayers in the morning. Confirmation with Litany at eleven o'clock. There were, I believe, 112 candidates. This holy service has excited here, as everywhere else, very great interest. The Church was crowded,--the candidates much affected,--whole rows of them weeping and sobbing together. There were many dissenters present, and they seemed as much impressed as our own people. As an evidence, I may mention that the churchwardens in the afternoon addressed a letter to me, requesting a copy of my address to be printed, Mr. G., the editor of the Methodist newspaper, "having been generous enough to offer to print a number of copies free of expense, and to distribute, as well as to supply each of the candidates with one." Such a request I could not refuse. May God grant it may be of use in the promotion of His glory, and the good of souls! Mr. Barrow preached this evening, Mr. M'Cleland yesterday, and Mr. Green on Monday. Dined in the evening with the Judge.
Thursday, Oct. 12.--This day I held a Synod of the Clergy of the Eastern province. Present, Rev. J. Heavyside, Rev. J. M'Cleland, Rev. H. Beaver, Rev. J. Barrow, Rev. W. Long, Rev. J. Green, Mr. Steabler, and Mr. Wheeler. We discussed the same topics as had been previously debated in the Western province--the formation of the Church Society, Church Ordinance, Marriage Law, Education Question. I issued the same injunctions, and offered the same recommendations. Our deliberations were conducted in the best spirit; and I trust good may result from them. Mr. Beaver preached in the evening.
Friday, Oct. 13.--Our synodical meeting was continued through part of this day. Made arrangements for my future progress through the Diocese, and wrote letters to the various Civil Commissioners, &c., to fix the days for my holding service in places where there are no Clergymen. Mr. Heavyside preached. Dined afterwards at a public dinner given by the Governor, at the Court-house, to 150 people. He had arrived here yesterday, and I felt I should be wanting in respect if I declined this invitation. The dinner has, I hope, politically, been of use in preserving that harmony and unity which seemed fast disappearing in the Colony.
Saturday, Oct. 14.--Conducted Mr. Long's viva voce examination in the Articles and Greek Testament. * * *
Sunday, Oct. 15.--The ordination of Mr. Long took place during morning prayers. Mr. Heavyside, Mr. M'Cleland, and Mr. Green joined in the act. I preached; the congregation was a very large one, filling the aisle as well as the pews. At the Holy Communion there were 150 communicants, nearly double the number that ever communicated before at one time. The service has, I hope, been useful, both in reminding us, who are God's Ministers, of our solemn responsibilities; and the Laity, of the nature and dignity of our office, and their relative obligations towards us. In the afternoon I attended the Sunday School,, where there were 120 children, and addressed both children and teachers. Fifty of the children here have already become subscribers to our Church Missions, through the Church Society which I am just founding. Afterwards I went to see the Governor, who I heard was ill. I found him in bed, but much better than he had been; and greatly regretting he could not attend the service of the Church. I had a long and interesting conversation with him. In the evening I again preached, Luke xviii. 8. "Nevertheless, when the Son of Man cometh, shall he find faith on the earth? We had again a very full Church.
Monday, Oct. 16.--Morning spent in receiving persons who wished to see me, and came by appointment. At twelve o'clock we had a full Church meeting at the vestry. The business began by a kind address to me from the restry, in the name of the Church at Grahamstown. I then brought under their notice the circumstances of their Church and churchyard, and my inability to consecrate them. It was agreed that they should immediately be conveyed to the See. I next stated to them the nature of the Archdeacon's office, who shortly would come to reside amongst them; and commended him to them as my deputy and representative. Afterwards I drew their attention to the question of Education. Undertook to obtain as speedily as possible a Clergyman who should have the sole charge of the school, and invited them to raise 300l. for the completion of the building, to which I promised from my fund 50l. A subscription was immediately entered into, and a committee formed for raising the funds, if possible, before my return on Saturday next. I urged them to raise 100l. a-year for a Curate for Mr. Heavyside. This they undertook to do through the same committee. But this led to a long conversation, in which some of the parishioners spoke their minds freely respecting the present state of the Church; and laid sundry complaints before me, which were not of a grave nature; but which will, I hope, as our ministerial body increases, cease to exist. Amongst other subjects, they complained of the giving up the Psalms in the Prayer Book for a compilation of Psalms and Hymns. Lastly, I laid before them the Church Society, and invited their assistance in carrying it out. I entered at some length into the nature of the association, and told them that I thought it best to lay before the Church at once all the objects to which, as a Church, I thought we ought to contribute--churches, schools, pastors, widows and orphans of ditto; Missionaries, College Scholarships, training of teachers, Book Society. The meeting expressed their readiness to co-operate with me in carrying out all the plans which I had proposed to them, and we broke up, after a long discussion of very interesting topics, at a little before three o'clock; at four o'clock, I dined with the officers of the 91st, who had kindly invited me to their mess; at seven o'clock, went to a tea-party given to the Governor in the Town Hall, and retired late, wearied with the day.
Tuesday, Oct. 17.--Early part of the day spent in returning the calls of the parishioners. Started at two o'clock for Southwell, but a guide who undertook to show us the way misled us, and we soon found that We were on the Bathurst road; but it was too late to retrace our steps, as we should have been benighted, and the evening turned out wet. We were obliged, therefore, after going over a miserable road, to sleep at a kind of public-house, only ten miles from Grahamstown, and twenty from Bathurst; we were, however, nearly three hours in performing the ten miles.
Wednesday, Oct. 18.--Rose before three; started in the dark at four o'clock, hoping to reach Bathurst before eight o'clock, and then ride to Southwell in time for the Confirmation. The morning, however, came on very wet, and the roads became almost impassable, the wagon sliding in every direction as well as the horses. Indeed, if our steed had not been an excellent one, and very fresh, I do not think we could have got on at all. We escaped without an upset, though momentarily in danger of one. The country through which we passed was very pretty--a succession of low hills covered with bush. On every side we saw marks of the late Kaffir devastations. Almost all the farm houses seem to have been burnt down. We arrived at Mr. Barrow's at half-past eight; when he informed us that, in the present state of the country, no horse could pass from thence to Southwell; so I was obliged to break my appointment, much to my regret. Bathurst is a pretty village, with a neat little Church, not correct indeed in point of architecture, but in excellent order. Spent the greater part of the day in writing letters home, and working at arrears of business.
Thursday, Oct. 19.--At ten o'clock this morning, went to meet the children of the Sunday School, whom I addressed; at eleven o'clock, began the Consecration service. There was a full Church, the inhabitants of the parish having come in from a considerable distance. I preached. At the Holy Communion there were upwards of twenty present. After service, went with Mr. Barrow to visit the parishioners, for whom he had provided refreshments in the schoolroom. At three o'clock the Confirmation service began. There were thirty candidates--two of them mothers, with infants in their arms. After service at six o'clock, I held a meeting of the parishioners in the vestry. Recommended the shareholders in a loan to the Church to give up their shares, making an offering of them to God. Those who were present undertook to do so. Brought under their notice the Church Society, in which they seemed to take an interest. Dined at eight o'clock with Mr. Dydson, the resident magistrate.
Friday, Oct. 20.--Started early this morning on horseback for Cuyleville: a beautiful ride. The banks of the Kleen-Mond river are steep, and well covered with bush. After crossing this river the country was very much like an English park. The Mimosa here grows to a great size; it assumes the appearance of a tree. Saw several beautiful flowers, the Strelitzia Regina, &c. The Euphorbia too grows here to a great size. Arrived at Cuyleville at about ten o'clock (fifteen miles); at eleven held divine service, Mr. Barrow, Mr. Long, Mr. Green, and Mr. Wheeler, all taking part. We had a full room, and began with Morning Prayer. After the Second Lesson we had a baptism. There were fourteen candidates for Confirmation, whom I addressed extempore for half an hour, as several had been present at our service yesterday. At the Holy Communion we had about twenty present. Our collection at the Offertory was upwards of 5l. The whole service was A very interesting one, the people appearing very devout. After Divine service I held a meeting of the members of the Church, and brought under their notice the necessity of their contributing to the support of their Catechist, who, I am happy to say, appears to be working very earnestly and successfully. The congregations are good; and at his different stations he has not less than fifty children under his instruction. A treasurer was appointed to collect funds, which are to be paid through the Church Society. After service we rode through an interesting country (fifteen miles), to the Honourable Mr. Cocks's, at the mouth of the Kowie river. At his house we dined and slept. A large party of friends followed us in a wagon.
Saturday, Oct. 21.--Mr. Cocks's son accompanied me this morning before six o'clock to view a fine reach of the Kowie river. The ride occupied about half an hour, and we returned to breakfast at half-past six. At seven we started for Southwell. I rode with Mr. Cocks and his son, the wagon following. Our route lay through a rich valley, occupied by Mr. Cocks's tenantry, and standing thick with corn. The crops were in every stage of progress, from the early green blade to the ripe ear. We had a pleasant ride of fifteen miles to the school, where we arrived about ten o'clock. A congregation soon gathered, and I held a meeting of the trustees, who raised 20l. on the spot towards liquidating the debt on their building, and I promised to assist them. We held Divine service at eleven o'clock. Mr. Barrow, who rode over from Bathurst, read Morning Prayers; Mr. Steabler the Lessons; Mr. Long, the Epistle and Offertory; Mr. Green the Gospel. We had nineteen candidates for Confirmation, whom I addressed extempore. Our communicants were about fourteen, and our Offertory collection upwards of 6l. After service some of the parishioners presented me with a memorial, expressive of their gratitude for the appointment of a Bishop--their obligations to Miss B. Coutts, who, moved by God's Holy Spirit, had founded the See-- their obligations to me for appointing so excellent a Catechist and their deep affection towards Mr. Barrow. I replied to them briefly, and expressed a hope that I might find things in a still more satisfactory condition, should it please God to spare me another Visitation. At two o'clock we resumed our journey to Grahamstown, which lay over a wide plain till we reached the foot of the mountain, on the other side of which the town lies. Here oxen were waiting to take our wagon up a very steep ascent. We walked, and arrived at Colonel Somerset's, with whom we are to stay till Monday morning. At seven o'clock we had a few friends to dinner, with whom we spent an agreeable evening.
Sunday, Oct. 22.--Service in Grahamstown at eleven o'clock. After the Second Lesson we had several baptisms, .when I stood sponsor to Mr. Heavyside's little boy; I preached; at the Offertory we collected 18l. for the new school, in addition to 300l. raised by the parishioners for the same purpose, during my absence in Lower Albany. After service some of the parishioners met me in vestry, to inform me of the result of their efforts. The members of the Church Society are to meet on Thursday to elect their committee, and raise 100l. a-year for an additional Clergyman. Arranged with Mr. Wilshere, who has arrived from Capetown during my absence, that he is to follow in a few days to Fort Beaufort. In the evening Mr. Green preached.
Monday, Oct. 23.--Started early this morning, accompanied by Colonel Somerset, and several gentlemen from Grahamstown on horseback. Green went on in the wagon. We had a lovely day, and a very beautiful ride. During the day two very large snakes crossed our path. We stopped for half an hour at Fort Brown (sixteen miles); here there are both troops and civilians, without a teacher of any kind. Colonel Somerset was very anxious that I should send a Catechist, but I know not how to support him. We rode on to Koonap river, (nine miles,) where we had an early dinner; and in the evening nine miles further, to a quiet little inn at Seurfontein, where we slept. The country is hilly all the way, with the mountains in the distance. The views are in some parts very extensive; there is no timber, but abundance of bush, and flowers of various kinds, especially the jasmine, which is very sweet, and several species of geranium, which entwine themselves amongst the bushes, and have a very beautiful appearance.
Tuesday, Oct. 24.--We started again on horseback at six o'clock, and reached Port Beaufort, (fourteen miles,) about nine o'clock. This morning's ride was through an interesting country, similar in its chief features to that which we passed through yesterday; it is a famous grazing country both for cattle and sheep, the bushes affording excellent pasture during the dry season; but none of the land in this part of the country is fit for the plough. A few miles from Beaufort we were met by a large party of civilians and military, who came out on horseback to welcome us; and on alighting at the inn I had a great number of visitors. Port Beaufort is prettily situated on a plain amidst the hills, and is nearly surrounded by the Kat river. I found it to be a much more important place than I had supposed. At eleven o'clock we held Divine service in a very large barrack-room; there could not be less than between 200 and 300 persons present; I confirmed eighteen, who had been prepared by Mr. Pratt, Government schoolmaster, and administered the Holy Communion to about thirty. I addressed the candidates chiefly in an extempore way. At two o'clock I held a meeting of the parishioners, who presented an address to me, congratulating me on my arrival, and bringing the spiritual state of the place under my notice. They have nearly finished the Church here, but have no Minister. The Church has been built partly by a loan. I urged them to give up their shares as an offering, which all the shareholders present promised to do. A committee was appointed to communicate with all those who were absent--to make application to Government for land for a parsonage, churchyard, &c., and to take steps for the conveyance of the Church, &c. to the See. I also brought the Church Society, before them, and invited them to contribute to Church purposes through it. I informed them also, that I would send them a Clergyman for one year, free of all expense--his stipend to be paid by the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel. At the end of the year, I informed them, they would have to contribute to his support. This meeting lasted till four o'clock, when we had evening service, and I preached again to a congregation which entirely filled the large room. After service I walked out of the town to inspect the churchyard, and after this the Church; I then went to visit a dying man, and retired at seven o'clock to a late dinner; spent a quiet evening in writing letters.
Wednesday, Oct. 25.--A sleepless night; remained awake till five o'clock; received a large packet of letters bringing painful news; started at eleven o'clock, in a smart shower, for Tort Hare. Major Johnstone, Mr. Bovey, and Mr. Pratt, accompanied us. We stopped for an hour at the military village of Ely. The people have made great progress in the erection of their houses, and talked of building a Church. The crops in their gardens and land were abundant. Each man has twelve acres of arable land. They are also allowed, for the present, rations, and the use of government wagons. It is a pity that so few of the men are married. Those who were, were very urgent on me to provide a schoolmaster for their children. We arrived at three o'clock at Port Hare, meeting Colonel Armstrong on the road, he having come out to meet us. At four o'clock I held a Confirmation, for which holy rite there were but three candidates; nor did many of the troops attend. After service I went to lie down for an hour before dinner, being quite knocked up for want of rest. We dined with the 45th, who are quartered here, and went in the evening to Mr. Beaver, the chaplain. Port Hare is not a very interesting looking place, the houses being all built of what is called "wattle and dab."
Thursday, Oct. 26.--We started at six o'clock this morning, on horseback, for another military village, (Woburn,) Colonel Armstrong and Mr. Beaver accompanying us. After conversing with the men, and inspecting their houses, we rode on to Auckland, another military village, situated at the source of the Chumie, in a very beautiful spot, just under the Amatola Mountains. On the opposite side of this stream is British Kaffraria, and the whole border-line is thickly studded with kraals and cattle, partly, I believe, because of the proximity to the Colony, and partly because the grass and soil are excellent. I was glad to see some Kaffir men digging in the gardens--an unusual sight; for all labour is usually assigned to the wives. Auckland is a larger village than the others; but the land docs not appear to be so good, and the crops are consequently not so promising. Mr. Beaver had given no notice of a service; but several of the people drew together with their Bibles and Prayer-books, so that I felt it would be wrong not to hold a service. I therefore read Morning Prayer in one of the cottages, and preached to them extempore. The people were very earnest in asking for a catechist and schoolmaster. I promised to do what I could to procure one. After leaving this we made our way back to the Missionary station of Chumie, belonging to the Glasgow Society--the Secession and Relief Scotch Dissenters. I was much pleased with what I saw here. The school seemed to me especially good, and there were two very nice mistresses--one a Kaffir woman, who speaks English perfectly, having been educated in Scotland. After staying an hour with the Missionary, Mr. Cummins, we proceeded on our journey to Balfour, and rode over the mountains, through a very beautiful country. Mr. Thompson met us a few miles from his house. He has charge of the Kat river settlement, consisting entirely of Hottentots, who have been located by Government here; and some of them had acquired a good deal of property, previously to the breaking out of the last war. Mr. Thompson appears to be an intelligent man, as does also Mr. Reed, of the London Missionary Society, who has a kind of joint charge of the Hottentots with Mr. Thompson, who is a Minister of the Dutch Church. Mr. Thompson has a large school, consisting of the daughters of Missionaries in Kaffir Land. We have ridden to-day, altogether, about fifty miles, and have had a fatiguing though an interesting expedition.
Friday, Oct. 27.--Started at seven o'clock this morning, in a cold fog, which was so dense that we lost our way. It cleared up, however, about eight, and we found ourselves in a rich and beautiful valley, just under the Winterberg Mountain. We soon had to commence the ascent of a part of this range, and were compelled to walk our horses, the road being very steep. The sun came out here upon us, and it was intensely hot. We arrived at. about ten at Port Retief, where Mr. Wilson came out to meet us. As soon as we were dressed we again mounted our horses, and rode about three miles to the school, where a large congregation was awaiting us. They all came out to meet me on the road, and gave me a hearty welcome. The school-house was soon filled with an attentive congregation. I confirmed fifteen, whom I addressed extempore. After service we went to look at the building which Mr. Boon had begun, but was unable to finish, consisting of a church, school, and dwelling-house. I held a public meeting at two o'clock, at which about thirty of the parishioners were present. We formed a committee for finishing the Church, leaving the rest of the building at present; also to raise funds for the support of a settled ministry; their subscriptions to be paid through the Church Society, the nature of which I explained to them. There is a Day, and also a Sunday School here, and I am glad to find that Mr. Wilson is zealously and successfully discharging the duties of a parish Minister in this long-neglected field.
Saturday, Oct. 28.--Spent the early part of the morning in writing, but we mounted our horses again at ten o'clock, Mr. Wilson accompanying us. The day was fine, but very warm. Port Retief is situated in a somewhat dreary spot; but we soon got into a country which gradually improved, till we reached the Mancazana Post, which is beautifully situated in a fruitful valley, surrounded by fine mountains. I observed to-day a great variety of flowers, some of them very beautiful, just coming into bloom, also was pained to observe many symptoms of Kaffir ravages, in farm-houses burnt down and not yet rebuilt. In one place, the family was living partly in a hut of straw, and partly in a wagon. The class of farmers in this district seem inferior in point of education, &c. to our English gentlemen in the interior and the western province. They are perhaps naturally very much embittered against the Kaffirs, and turn a deaf ear to Missions. There are more of the coloured population employed by them than, I think, in other parts; and so far as food, &c. is concerned, they are, I believe, kind to them; but I fear the instances are very, very rare where any attempt is made to raise their characters by instruction. It is painful to see the degraded condition of these poor creatures--around each farm there may be a dozen of their bee-hive huts, made of a kind of reed. In each hut there dwells a man, his wives, and a considerable family of little naked savages, scarce raised in condition above the pigs and cows by which they are surrounded, but with intelligent countenances, and a fine manly bearing. In this day's ride, of thirty miles, I saw but one man working. It is the usual custom for the male to sit smoking at home, while his wives are cultivating the ground. We "off-saddled" for an hour at Mr. Bear's, who, in the late war of 1835 was entirely stripped of all that he possessed. He had built a wall round his house, and made a kind of fortification. He was attacked once by the Kaffirs, and killed fourteen of them. He had been for sixteen years in the Colony before he received a visit from a Clergyman of the Church. Additional labourers are sadly wanted here, as everywhere. May God, in his infinite mercy, dispose the hearts of his people at home to provide the means, and the men, for the establishment of his Church and kingdom in this desolate portion of the earth, for the bringing within his fold these poor lost tribes, who are, though in the midst of a professedly Christian people, sitting in the darkness and shadow of death! I do not think I have in any part of my destitute Diocese been so forcibly struck with the need we have to make fresh and more vigorous exertions for the establishment of additional clergy, who will devote themselves to the work for Christ's sake. Much there is, and will be, to try God's servants and ministers, on entering on the work here but ample, I am sure, will be the reward, if not in this world, yet abundantly in that which is to come. We arrived at the Mancazana Post about four o'clock, and found Mr. Boon, the Catechist of the Colonial Church Society, awaiting our arrival, and that our wagon had also arrived. Mr. Boon walked with us down to his little Church, which he had built, and which he has fitted up in the interior in a very correct and devotional spirit. The interior, indeed, is more like a church or house of prayer than any building I have yet seen in the Colony. The exterior is poor enough. I have had a long conversation with him this evening about the state of religion in this neighbourhood, and his account is painful indeed.
Sunday, Oct. 29.--At nine o'clock this morning Mr. Boon's school assembled. I examined them, and addressed them: at eleven o'clock we held Divine service in his neat little Church, to the western entrance of which he had attached a kind of tent, by way of ante-chapel. Both Church and tent were completely filled with a devout, congregation. Mr. Green officiated--Mr. Boon reading the Lessons and Epistle. I preached. We had eleven communicants, one or two of whom were much affected; the offertory amounting to between 5l. and 6l. After service, several spoke to me of the state of spiritual destitution in which they had lived, never having seen a minister of their Church. I find that the families of many Churchmen have joined some of the various sects, who, while we have neglected them, have met and supplied wants which they felt, but saw no prospect of having supplied within their own communion. We had our Confirmation Service at three o'clock, when I confirmed six candidates. There was again a full congregation, whom I addressed, together with the candidates, on the nature of our Christian obligations, extempore. In the evening we had Divine service again at seven o'clock. I preached on the text, "When shall I come and appear before God?" (Psalm xlii. 2.)
Monday, Oct. 30.--Spent the early part of the morning in endeavouring to devise some scheme by which poor Mr. Boon may be relieved from the responsibilities which his zeal for Church and School building have involved him in. I trust I may be able to succeed; but larger funds are required for the completion of the undertaking than can, I fear, be raised; and the tenure of the property upon which he has built is so insecure, that I have great doubts how far I can give assistance, under existing circumstances, and whether we can ever secure it for the Church. At ten o'clock I held a meeting of the inhabitants. I pressed upon them the raising of funds to support an additional Clergyman, whom they speak of as greatly wanted; and also to raise the small amount still required to free their Church from debt. A committee was formed for carrying out these objects, the sums collected to be paid through the Church Society, the nature of which I explained to them. Six stations were named in the district, where it is desirable to hold services. At one o'clock we started again in our wagon, and drove through an interesting country, but over wretched roads, to Mr. J. Nourse's, whose house was burnt down last year by the Kaffirs, and is not yet rebuilt. After outspanning here for half-an-hour, we drove on to Sir A. Stockenstrom's, whose house we reached at half-past five, and found dinner waiting for us. I had an interesting conversation with him in the evening, respecting the coloured population, of whom there are such numbers in these parts. Their existing condition is most melancholy. A little village of Kaffirs or Fingoes surrounds almost every farm-house. For these people nothing is done by the Christian population, whose servants they are, and one scarce sees what is to be done. They feel they owe no debt to the white man, who has deprived them of their country; and they consequently think him. fair prey. Nothing is more common, therefore, than for the servant to desert his master, carrying off with him some of his best oxen or cows; in fact, Sir A. has just lost five, which he is seeking after in vain. What is to be done with or for these poor people? I fear, as things at present are, it is only by raising the Christian character of the master, and leading him to take an interest in the spiritual welfare of the serf population, that we can hope to do much good. But at present the white people themselves are living, in many instances, cut off from the means of grace, and thus are themselves deteriorating. I have met with one young man to-day, the son of a Clergyman, who has a coloured population of 100 souls upon his farm; and to these he gives religious instruction every Lord's-day; and he tells me he reaps the, benefit of it, in a worldly way, in the improved character and conduct of his people. He has no Clergyman or Church within 100 miles of him.
Tuesday, Oct. 31.--Started at nine o'clock this morning. Drove through a pleasing country, four hours, to the Great Fish river, where we outspanned, and in which I enjoyed . a swim. Afterwards drove on, three hours, to Somerset, which is a pretty village, and beautifully situated, with the mountains in the back. We took up our quarters at Mr. Hudson's, the Civil Commissioner, and found that he, with a party of gentlemen, had gone out to meet us by a different road from that by which we entered. Mr. and Mrs. Long had waited here for our arrival. He has been preparing the candidates for Confirmation.
Wednesday, Nov. 1.--The early part of the day spent in writing, chiefly relative to the state of things at George. At eleven o'clock we held a Confirmation in the Dutch Church: there were fifteen candidates. We had also a Baptism after the Second Lesson. At two o'clock I held a meeting of the parishioners, and an excellent spirit prevailed. The amount of subscription towards the stipend of a Clergyman is 60l. a-year, to be paid through the Church Society, the nature of which I explained to them. A committee of the Society was formed. Two memorials to Government were drawn up, and signed, one asking for assistance towards the stipend of a Clergyman, the other for a site for a Church. We raised 70l. in the room towards the erection of a Church. One gentleman consulted me about the question of tithes, which he said he felt bound in conscience to pay, not as an offering, but a debt to God. Our meeting was over at four o'clock, after which I returned a few calls. Dinner at five. Church service again at six o'clock, when I preached, and administered the Holy Communion to fourteen persons, one of whom had been, I think, thirty-nine years in the Colony without seeing a Clergyman.
Thursday, Nov. 2.--Rose at four o'clock, and started at a little past five on our road to Cradock. The route lay for several miles through a rough and rocky valley of considerable beauty, called Squaggas Hoek. We afterwards emerged into a more open country, and arrived at a Dutch farm, just as they were sitting down to dinner: they gave us a hearty welcome. We then, passed through a country still hilly, though somewhat barren, till we arrived at some farms called Spit Kop, where we were to sleep; but finding , there was only one dark hole where the family slept, but which they kindly offered to give up to us, we preferred passing the night in the wagon; where we rested better than we expected, with our men snoring on the ground on one side of us, and the horses tethered to the wagon on the other. Unfortunately for them, poor things, the night was a cold one.
Friday, Nov. 3.--Started this morning a little after five o'clock: the country through which we passed was hilly and very barren. We had, however, line mountain views. At half-past ten we arrived on the banks of the Fish river, where we first bathed, and then completed our toilet and shaving, which we had no opportunity of doing before. We offered up our morning orisons under the shade of the Mimosa. Our road from hence lay along a stony, desolate valley, with mountains on either side, until we reached Cradock about three o'clock. This is an increasing place. I find here a Dutch Church, Wesleyan and Independent Chapels; but no English Church, or Clergyman. Many of ur people have already joined other communions--others attend their services, until a better day shall dawn. I have had a list of about sixty persons presented to me, chiefly heads of families, who still call themselves English Church-people. I think something may be done here. In the afternoon I went to call upon several of our people, and upon the Dutch Minister, who has kindly placed his Church at our disposal. We took up our quarters at Mr. Gilfillan, the Civil Commissioner's, who has kindly invited us to his house.
Saturday, Nov. 4.--The early part of the day I employed myself in writing letters, and other official business. Mr. Green, employed himself in preparing candidates for Confirmation. At two o'clock I held a meeting of the Church-people. There were but few there, owing to some mistake; but a committee of the Church Society was formed-- subscriptions entered into in support of a Clergyman, and towards the erection of a Church, and memorials drawn up to Government, for a grant for the only remaining erf for a Church and Parsonage, and for assistance towards the support of a Clergyman. Again I had to listen to the painful tale I have so often heard, of many having joined themselves to other communions, after waiting for years in the hope of seeing a Minister of their own established amongst them. In the evening, Mr. Gilfillan had a large party of gentlemen to meet us at dinner.
Sunday, Nov. 5.--At eight o'clock this morning, began the work of preparing some additional candidates for Confirmation, of whose characters I had heard a good report, and with whose earnestness and seriousness of deportment I was much pleased. At half-past eleven we held Morning service in the Dutch Church, alter theirs was concluded. We had a full Church, and I confirmed thirteen. Several children were baptized after the second Lesson; and one lady churched. In the evening we held Divine service again, when I preached and administered the Holy Communion to nineteen. We deferred the Communion till the evening, in order that the newly confirmed might have an opportunity of communicating. After service I had an anonymous offering of 15 l. sent in "from one who had lost his all in the late Kaffir war, but was again prospering through the mercy of God." I cannot but hope that the services of this day may be blessed to the good of the souls of our people. Several expressed themselves in a very right and proper spirit. May God in his infinite mercy speedily raise up for them a faithful pastor!
Monday, Nov. 6.--Started between five and six o'clock. Another most lovely day. I cannot be too thankful to God, amongst other things, for the beautiful weather I have had ever since I left Capetown. Had it been otherwise, how much must my work have been impeded! delay even for a few hours would in almost every case have deranged my whole plans. Our route lay through a Karroo country with scarcely any houses, and bearing a very desolate appearance. The country was quite flat, but in the distance we have had mountains all the way. The only inhabitants seem to be spring-boks and the buffalo we saw many of the former. We outspanned by the Great Fish river, and again afterwards by the Braak river, in which we enjoyed a bath. We slept at Zoet Fontein, Andreis Beater's, a very intelligent and amiable Dutch farmer. We spent our evening in reading together the Dutch and English Prayer-book, of which I gave him a copy.
Tuesday, Nov. 7.--A restless night. I did not fall asleep until near three o'clock, and was called at a little past four. This was owing, I believe, to the voraciousness of the animals that infested the bed. I walked on before the-wagon in the morning, having wearied myself out with reading Southey's Life of Wesley in tile night. About this house we found three tame ostriches, also the secretary bird. Our journey, as yesterday, lay over a great desert plain, with nothing upon it but a kind of bush, abounding, however, with the sprink-bok, of which we must have seen thousands: they kept crossing our path incessantly, skipping and bounding very beautifully. Around us on all sides were mountains. The natural road is for the most part as good as any road in England. Where we out-Spanned, we found the ground for a considerable extent actually covered with locusts; giving us some idea of what the plague of locusts must have been. Two men were incessantly employed with leather flags tied to sticks, flapping away the locusts from a field of corn which was growing near the only water for miles; but I fear all their exertions will not prevent them from consuming it. We slept at Peter Zisanopol's farm, Macaster Fontein, where the people insisted on turning out of their only bed-room to accommodate us. I had rather have slept in the wagon, but they had made all the arrangements while I had gone to bathe in a vlea near the house. The fanner asked us to hold a service in Dutch, saying they were so seldom able to hear God's ministers. Though I was very doubtful whether they could understand my Dutch, I thought it wrong not to comply. We began with a Psalm. I then read to them a portion of the Word of God, and offered up some of the prayers of our Church. They professed to understand all that I said, but I fear my pronunciation must have appeared ridiculous to them.
Wednesday, Nov. 8.--Off again between five and six features of the country much the same as yesterday. We outspanned for breakfast at Cobus Pinars: afterwards again near a vlea, where we bathed. We arrived at Colesberg a little after five o'clock. Colesberg is situated in a kind of valley, between two rows of barren broken rocks. There is not much space for a large town. The Dutch Church is the great proprietor, owning 46,000 acres of land, given to them by Sir L. Cole, when Governor. I called in the evening upon the Dutch Minister, to thank him for the offer of his Church, which he has kindly placed at my disposal. We took up our quarters with Dr. and Mrs. Orpen, whom we found well and cheerful.
Thursday, Nov. 9:--Spent the morning in writing and receiving visitors. Received a letter from the Dutch Minister, wherein he offers, in the name of his Church, the only remaining unsold erf, as a site for an English Church. Commenced Dr. Orpen's examination for Holy Orders.
Friday, Nov. 10.--Started on horseback a little after five, to have a look at the Orange river. We arrived there before eight o'clock, and after knee-bathing our horses, swam across it: we returned home about twelve o'clock. The distance is about thirty miles. In the afternoon proceeded with Dr. Orpen's examination, and wrote some letters. Dined in the evening with Mr. Rawstorne, the Civil Commissioner.
Saturday, Nov. 11.--Held a Confirmation this morning in the Dutch Church: twelve were confirmed, several of whom were much affected. At two o'clock held a public meeting. Unfortunately at this time several of our chief people are absent on business. We however commenced subscriptions for a Church and a Clergyman. Memorialized Government for assistance. Pounded the Church Society, and passed resolutions thanking the Dutch for their gift of a site for a Church. Afterwards finished Dr. Orpen's examination. I am very much pleased with him and Mrs. Orpen. They are excellent, pious people; and he has evidently already done much good here, gaining the respect and regard of all in the place, and drawing- around him a congregation much larger than could have been expected in so short a time. He has the condition of the heathen much at heart, and I doubt not, with God's blessing, will, so soon as he can, disclose to them, in their own tongue, the wonderful works of God, and seek the salvation of their souls.
Sunday, Nov. 12.--Ordained Dr. Orpen Deacon this morning in the Dutch Church; and had much satisfaction and joy in admitting him to the ministry. We had a largo congregation on the occasion. At the Holy Communion eighteen presented themselves, several of whom wept freely. I preached on the duties and privileges of the Christian Ministry. In the evening we had Divine service again, the Dutch Minister having kindly omitted his evening service for the occasion. I preached again with special reference to the work in which we are engaged--the building of the House of our God. I fear the religious condition of the European population is at a very low ebb in this neighbourhood. The treatment of the coloured heathen is from all I can learn, anything but what it should be, and but little calculated to win them to the faith of Christ. The Dutch population, too, so far as education is concerned, appears to be in a very sad condition. The farmers are, I understand, wealthy here, but keep nearly all they possess stored up in their own houses. I have heard that in this way they keep, in some instances, even thousands treasured up.
Monday, Nov. 13.--Spent the morning in writing. Afterwards called upon several of the inhabitants. ****** The Government is now consulting the field cornetcies as to the best method to be adopted for checking thefts of cattle, &c. by the coloured population. The farmers have in several instances suggested that they should be allowed to administer a "vaderligh tucht," fatherly correction; the tender nature of which may be seen in the ease of a poor coloured man now in jail, or tronk, at Colesberg; the soles of whose feet were so beaten by a farmer, that he is now obliged to crawl about on his hands and knees. We slept at Elands Fontein--I in the tent which was furnished for me by the Governor. I found my mother Earth none of the softest, and had but little sleep. My morning toilet was performed at one o'clock by the side of a muddy vlea, much to the annoyance of the frogs: a vineyard was my oratory.
Tuesday, Nov. 14.--Slept at Mr. Bark's an Englishman; the country is much the same as that already passed through--large dreary plains interrupted by rocky koppies, abounding with the spring-bok and the gnu. We managed to get a refreshing bathe; and our weather is still beautiful, though both, warm and dusty.
Wednesday, Nov. 15.--A long day's journey through a country similar to that we have traversed since we left Craciook: the whole of our day we encountered successive herds of spring-bok, gnu, and occasionally flocks of the beautiful crane of the country.
Thursday, Nov. 16.--The character of the country is somewhat altered to-day. We are again amidst the mountains, but everything wears the same barren, desolate aspect as before. The spririg-boks and the gnus have disappeared, and we have scarce seen any symptom of life, except that of a few sheep. We have found some difficulty even in procuring sufficient water for our horses, the streams being, many of them, quite dry through the long-continued drought. We have felt it, however, quite refreshing to have exchanged the wearisome plains for the mountains. We arrived at Graaff Heinet about six. The approach to the town by the banks of the river, with mountain crags hanging over it, is very beautiful, and the town itself is charmingly situated amongst the hills. It contains a population of upwards of four thousand, and is laid out in, squares, with streets crossing each, other at right angles, Almost every house has a garden, abounding with the fig-tree, peach, vine, mulberry, pear, pomegranates, apricot, &c. The oleander here grows to a large tree, and I observed the Kaffir-broom, and some magnificent weeping willows. Little streams of water run through almost every street. The Dutch Church, with a very tolerable tower and spire, is well situated in the centre of the town. Having arrived a day sooner than was expected, I prevented the parishioners from riding out to meet me, as they informed me they had intended to do. I found a packet of about thirty letters awaiting me, several of them from England, containing accounts of the falling off of my subscriptions, just as I have been pledging myself to near 400l. a-year beyond what I had raised in England. But God will provide. He will not suffer his work to languish for want of a few hundred pounds.
Friday, Nov. 17.--Reading letters and writing. Walked about the town to look at the site of the Church and Churchyard. In the afternoon drove round the town. Visitors keep dropping in the whole day from morning to night.
Saturday, Nov. 18.--Confirmed forty-eight candidates this morning, many of whom were deeply impressed. Afterwards held a meeting of the parishioners, when a plan for a Church was decided upon, a fresh subscription entered into in support of their Minister, memorials drawn up to the Governor, applying for land for Churchyard and Glebe, Church Society explained and founded, Pastoral Letter addressed by me to the Clergy, enlarged upon. The meeting lasted nearly four hours. I trust the Church here will soon be begun, as the money collected or promised exceeds 900l.
Sunday, Nov. 19.--Divine service with Holy Communion in the Dutch Church; many of the Dutch were present. I preached on the necessity of coming unto Christ in order to salvation, and the way in which men must come. So long have our people in this congregation been deprived of the Holy Communion, that very many seem not to know how the sacrament is administered in the English Church. I have both confirmed here, and administered the Holy Communion to some who were brought up in the Dutch Church. I believe that there are many of the more educated of that communion, who, where they have an opportunity of judging of our Church, prefer it much to their own. I preached again in the evening, on the spirit in which we should enter upon the erection of the House of God. Our collection to-day for Holy Vessels amounted to upwards of 18l.
Monday, Nov. 20.--Writing letters in the morning. At eleven, went out to return calls; in which occupation I was engaged during the remainder of the day.
Tuesday, Nov. 21.--I leave Graaff Reinet with much satisfaction., feeling assured that Mr. Long will devote himself, as he has hitherto zealously done, to the work of the ministry.; and that God's cause will prosper there. I have heard to-day that the impression made by the Confirmation has been most happy and salutary; and that some, at least, are resolved to live as members of Christ, and children of God. Some Jews sent a contribution to our Church, having heard the afternoon sermon yesterday, in which I endeavoured to stir up our people to take part in the erection of the house of God, as a high privilege, by showing the spirit in which God's ancient people engaged in the erection of the tabernacle, and the rearing and restoring the temple. At six o'clock this morning we started on horseback, accompanied by Mr. Hewath, the churchwarden, who kindly lent us horses, and Mr. Southey: they rode with us till ten o'clock. Shortly after we passed by a very singular and beautiful waterfall, which fell from the edge of our road into a very deep valley beneath. Afterwards our route lay along a valley, which had no very interesting features. The country is much burnt up, and there are no trees. Our day's journey was about fifty miles. We slept at Rhenoster Fontein.
Wednesday, Nov. 22.--The Sneeuwberg, through which we are passing, is a somewhat richer country than we have of late seen; the farms exhibit signs of wealth, and here and there, where there is a "fontein," there are patches of arable land covered with luxuriant crops. If only there were more rain, or rivers which continually flowed, or if there were greater efforts made to preserve what water does fall, the greater part of the valleys which we passed through might undoubtedly be brought under the plough. The general features of the country, however, present but a barren appearance. We passed the night on the edge of the Buffalo river, whose broad basin, however, was nearly dry. My tent, which was pitched in the sand, was so loosened from its holdings by the wind, that it kept napping all night, and the sand drifted into my bed, so that I scarce got any rest. We enjoyed, however, the freedom of our mode of life, and lay gazing on our magnificent canopy of stars.
Thursday, Nov. 23.--Being ready before the wagon, I hid an enjoyable walk of two hours in advance. During the day we saw a great number of ostriches. We were rejoiced again to see the Mimosa, of which a fortnight since we were quite weary. Anything green is pleasing, after the dreary waste of dry and withered bushes, by which we have been of late surrounded. We halted at night at a farm about four hours distant from Beaufort, and slept in tent and wagon.
Friday, Nov. 24.--Arrived in Beaufort about ten o'clock, Our horses appearing somewhat fagged. I find the Civil Commissioner has never received my letter, and that I was, consequently, not expected. He however soon engaged lodgings for us, and we got some breakfast before twelve o'clock. It is very unfortunate that no notice could be given of my visit, for most of the English population reside in the country, there being, I am told, not less than forty farmers in the neighbourhood. I have, however, notified my desire to meet the inhabitants to-morrow, and to hold service in the Dutch Church. I found another packet of English letters here, and one from---------, announcing the arrival of the Archdeacon, and seven Clergy and Catechists. Spent the day in writing letters, and calling upon and conversing with the English inhabitants.
Saturday, Nov. 25.--Morning spent in receiving visits, inspecting and examining the heathen school, and calling upon some of the English people. I found one lady, who said she had been thirty-eight years in the Colony, without seeing any Minister of her own Church. Several more, having quite despaired of ever having a Clergyman near them, have joined the Dutch Church. There is, however, a little congregation here of members of the English Church, who meet together every Lord's-day, to read the Church service. Mr. Eraser, the Dutch Minister, received us very kindly, and assured me he should give up the English service which he now holds, as soon as an English Clergyman is appointed. Examined the Government school. There appears to be an excellent teacher here. I held a meeting of the English inhabitants at three o'clock, in the Court-house, in order that we might take steps for the erection of a Church, and the raising of a stipend for a Minister. It was very well attended, though the notice was so short, but none of the country people could be present. Nearly 200l. was raised in the room for a Church; and this, it is expected, will be greatly increased: nearly 50l. a-year for five years pledged for a Clergyman, and this also will be much increased. Memorials were drawn up and signed, requesting the Governor to give a site for a Church, &c., and to meet their subscription by grants both towards Church and Pastor. I was not able to promise them much assistance, being pledged already to an extent beyond the funds placed at my disposal. After the meeting, in the evening, several persons came to see me, on cases of conscience. They spoke in affecting terms of their spiritual destitution, and of the awful condition into which many English settlers have sunk, from want of the means of grace; and expressed their joy at the prospect of a change. One gentleman declared, though his family had, from lack of means in their own Church, joined another communion, yet that in their hearts they were with their ancient mother; and that they should return to her fold as soon as they had the opportunity: at my next Visitation, he and his three sons would present themselves for Confirmation, and would have done so now, had there been sufficient time to prepare for it.
Sunday, Nov. 26.--We held service this morning in the Dutch Church. There was a large congregation of Dutch and English. There were but few communicants. Several wished to have approached the Lord's Table, but were deterred from want of preparation, the notice having been so short; and possibly, also, from having, in this their spiritual wilderness, thought but little of it. The Evening .Service was at five o'clock, Mr. Fraser omitting his usual English service. There was a good congregation. I preached on both occasions. In the afternoon, at Mr. Fraser's request, I addressed both the coloured and Dutch Sunday-school, who were brought into the Church for that purpose. His clerk interpreted for mo. The coloured school consisted chiefly of adult heathens. Poor things, they seemed very attentive. In the evening, many of the inhabitants came to bid us good-bye, and to wish us a prosperous journey; and some of them sent us cakes, honey, and milk, for provision by the way.
Monday, Nov. 27.--Rose at three o'clock, but was delayed some time, waiting for the horses I had engaged. I thought it prudent to send on my own. horses a day in advance, lest they should be quite knocked up on our long journey to George, over a road but little known, but known to be a bad one. Our route to-day has been along a dreary, barren, desolate Karroo. We have performed, however, nearly seventy miles, over a rough road. Our horses stuck for some time in the dry bed of a river, and I thought we should have to remain there till the next thunder-storm washed us all away. After whipping the poor jaded horses for some time, our men suggested that Green and myself should put our shoulders to the wheel, which we accordingly did, and at length got out. We outspanned for the night near a little muddy pool in the bed of a river; and hero again we were obliged, as it was growing dark, to become hewers of wood for our fire, and drawers of water; while our men were pitching the tent, lighting the fire, cooking our supper, and feeding the horses.
Tuesday, Nov. 28.--We rose again between three and four. I walked on, and the wagon did not overtake me till I reached Swanapools, where our horses were waiting for us. I had a pleasant walk for two hours. We started immediately with our own horses, and travelled as usual, till we arrived at the top of the Zunyberg Mountains, over which .we had to pass, where one of our wheels gave way with a great crash. By my calculation of distances, I considered that we could not be more than half-an-hour from a farm; and therefore I started on foot, with Ludwig, to get Assistance, leaving Green in charge of the wagon. We walked on till near nine o'clock before we reached a house, and found ourselves twelve miles beyond the place where I was told there was a house, but where we found there was none. I was very tired before we reached the place, and was thankful, on arriving at a pool of water, to kneel down like the cattle and drink; but would have gladly given up my place to our poor parched horses, who had no water within several miles of them. We found it was too late to send a wagon that night, the oxen not being in the kraal; I therefore asked if I could sleep at the farm. The good people readily assented, but alarmed me by covering the floor of my room with beds for the whole family, which, however, from a hint from Ludwig, they moved into another room, to my great consolation. I did not sleep well, having still a superabundance of unpleasant bedfellows.
Wednesday, Nov. 29.--Early in the morning I despached Ludwig with an ox-wagon, and a cask of water for the horses, while I walked on to see a wheelmaker, who happened to live near, about making us a new wheel. I found him engaged in repairing another wagon that had broken down, but he promised despatch. I feel somewhat crippled with my walk of twenty-five miles yesterday, under a hot sun. Having no books, nor any writing materials, my day was but a dull one. I spent the greater part of it under the shade of some mimosa bushes, reviewing my work, meditating upon various subjects, and looking out anxiously for the wagon. Our wheelwright, in spite of his promises, went to bed before I did. The wagon did not return till nearly nine o'clock. They were once upset, which did not improve the condition either of the vehicle or its contents.
Thursday, Nov. 30.--We find the benefit of carrying provision with us, as we are nearly reduced to living on our own stores. Christian produced an ostrich's egg, which he had got from a coloured woman during his journey yesterday, and it satisfied the hunger of our whole party. I do not much admire the flavour; it is too rich. Our men all set to work upon, the wheel, and I fear it will not be finished to-night. We spent our day chiefly in reading, and writing letters. Walking up a small valley, came to a waterfall, and a very deep pool under rocks, perhaps 600 feet high. Here we enjoyed a very cold bath. I swam under the fall, which was not a very great one.
Friday, Dec. 1.--Our repairs were finished early this morning, and we got off at nine o'clock. We were thankful to get quite out of the Karroo country, which is essentially "a barren and dryland where no water is." The country here is in some respects interesting-. The mountains are bold and rugged, but still want trees. There is scarce any green thing except the mimosa. We had hardly crossed the Olifants river before we met Mr. Sutherland, from the Knysna, who had ridden at least 100 miles to meet us. Shortly after we were met by Mr. Walter, of George, who had ridden as great a distance, and had been waiting for us more than a day. He most kindly came out to see that the horses, which were gratuitously furnished to ns by the different farmers along the road for the last eighty miles, at the request of their Minister and the Civil Commissioner, were in readiness. Had it not been for this act of kindness, it would have been very difficult for us to reach George by Saturday evening. We slept at Mr. Commr. Van Rooyen's, who entertained us most hospitably, and would take no remuneration.
Saturday, Dec. 2.--We had oxen to take us over the mountains. I was very glad to find myself in the Lange Kloof. It seemed quite like an old friend, and made us feel we were again approaching home. We travelled at a rapid pace with fresh horses, breakfasting at Mr. Ignatius Van Rooyen's, and dining with Mr. Richardson, who has a very large establishment of seventy souls on his farm. His buildings are the best of any that I have seen in the Colony; and I was very glad to find that he had erected very comfortable houses for his coloured servants. I understand he finds no difficulty in procuring servants, for he lets them see he takes an interest in them--attending to their spiritual as well as their temporal wants; holding Divine service for them on Sunday: and I am persuaded if more of the farmers would follow his example, they would be equally successful, and find the benefit of their efforts, even in a temporal point of view. I was very much struck with the Montagu Pass. The scenery is really very fine; the mountains grand and picturesque, and very Alpine. The road is an excellent one, and well engineered. We arrived at George about seven o'clock, and found a large party of gentlemen awaiting us. We took up our quarters at the house of Mr. Garcia, who was kind enough to invite us, and where we had soon a numerous party of visitors. I found many of our old friends from the Knysna, who had come up to meet us. Davidson met us at Mr. Richardson's, and I had a good deal of conversation with him.
Sunday, Dec. 3.--We had Divine service twice to-day. I preached, in the morning, on the preparation of heart required for a due commemoration of Christ's first coming into the world; and in the evening, upon his second coming.
Monday, Dec. 4.--Wrote all the morning, chiefly letters of business. In the afternoon, returned some calls. In the evening, we had a dinner party.
Tuesday, Dec. 5.--Day spent in writing, making arrangements with the Churchwardens, calling on various people. In the evening dined with the Civil Commissioner.
Wednesday, Dec. 6.--Started at five o'clock this morning. Outspanned and breakfasted at the Great Braak river, at the same spot as we did more than three months ago. Pushed on in the evening till it became dark, when we could find no water; and therefore travelled on till we reached the Coaritz river after tea o'clock. We did not get to sleep till near midnight, as the tent took some time to pitch.
Thursday, Dec. 7.--Up again before four o'clock this morning. We forded the Goaritz river, taking off our shoes and stockings at a drift where it is sometimes 150 feet deep. Suspecting our horses might fail at this, which is a steep, sandy drift, I watched for the wagon from height of the opposite hill. Unfortunately my suspicion proved but too true- For the first time in a journey of two thousand miles they were beaten, greatly to the vexation of oar driver. Here we had to remain several hours, waiting for a span of oxen. At length our patience being wearied out, we emptied our wagon, carrying its contents to the top of the hill. The horses then took it up with ease. We slept at a farm about two hours distant from Riversdale.
Friday, Dec. 8.--Breakfasted with Mr. Hudson at Rivers-dale.. Major Shaw, the Magistrate, spoke to me very earnestly about a Clergyman, and thought that 50l. or 60l. a-year might easily be raised. He is to communicate with me on the subject. We determined to go a little out of our way to Port Beaufort, which I missed when last here, to see Mr. Barry, and the foundations of his Church, according to plans furnished by me, which are already laid: we slept at his house, and walked to see the mouth of the Breede river. The want of good water will probably prevent this becoming ever a considerable port,
Saturday, Dec. 9.--Sent on my wagon early, and followed myself later in Mr. Barry's wagon, with some of his family who were going up to Swellendam for the Sunday service. The distance is thirty-six miles, and the country has a very dreary appearance, being much burnt up, and entirely without trees.
Sunday, Dec. 10.--We held Divine service in the Dutch Church, morning and evening. I preached in the morning on our Lord's second advent; Green in the evening. After morning service I confirmed a lady who had been most anxious for Confirmation when I was last here, but had had no notice of it, and determined to go to Capetown to partake of the ordinance, though in a bad state of health.
Monday, Dec. 11.--Rose at three o'clock; started about four on my route to Worcester. The weather is getting very warm, and the country very dry and burnt up. At Swellendam upwards of 100£ a-year has been raised since I was here, in support of a Clergyman. I trust I may be able to send one shortly. The village is one of the neatest and most cheerful looking in the Colony. Our route lay through a pleasing valley, lying between mountains, and capable I should think of being cultivated to a great extent, and of bearing a largo population. We slept at Mr. Van. Tyler's, a Dutch farmer of some intelligence.
Tuesday, Dec. 12.--Arrived at Worcester about five o'clock. The distance from Swellendam is, I think, about ninety miles. The day was intensely hot, and we enjoyed much a bathe in the river. Worcester is very beautifully situated at the foot of the mountains. It was apparently intended, when laid out, for a large town; but at present contains, including the coloured people, not more than three thousand souls. The houses are at a great distance from each other, and surrounded by fields or gardens. The soil seems rich, and is well watered. We took up our abode at the Drosdy House, having been kindly invited to do so by Mr. Truter, the Civil Commissioner, a most agreeable and gentlemanly person. This house was built as a shooting box by Lord C. Somerset, when Governor, and is one of the best in the Colony. The gardens about it are excellent. The premises, which are too large for any private person, would make admirable buildings for a College.
Wednesday, Dec. 13.--Went before breakfast with Mr. Truter, to visit the gaol. The only prisoner is a Dutch farmer, who recently beat his wife to death because she remonstrated with him. for pretending to celebrate the Lord's Supper when in a state of intoxication. He has for the last few days become at times insane, apparently from remorse and despair. I spoke a few words to him respecting repentance and pardon, but it was too much for him. He became convulsed, and I was obliged to leave him. Crimes like his are very rare in this Colony; but, as in the mother country, in most cases they have their origin in drink, to which there are but too many temptations. After breakfast I examined the government school. I found the teacher here, as elsewhere, cramming the children with natural philosophy, and all kinds of hard words, the meaning of which they did not understand, instead of giving them a plain useful education, suited to their circumstances. I was pleased, however, with the knowledge which two or three children exhibited of the history of the Old Testament. At eleven o'clock I held a meeting1 of the English inhabitants in the vestry of the Dutch Church. There were not many present, nor indeed are there many in the place, and these are chiefly poor. Several offered themselves as candidates for Confirmation; and one or two seemed very anxious to have a Clergyman placed amongst them; but I fear I shall scarcely be able to effect this at present. One man pleaded very earnestly with me, and spoke with great feeling of his own condition, cut off as ho is from the means of grace, and utterly unable to comprehend the Dutch service. There are some Rhenish Missionaries here, who seem to be respectable men; though they do not appear to be doing any great good. After oar meeting I called on Sir. Sutherland, the Dutch Minister; he has usually only one service on the Sunday, but once a month he holds an English service. In the afternoon wrote letters, &c. There were several gentlemen to dinner in the evening.
Thursday, Dec. 14.--Had interviews this morning with several persons who wished to see me on religious matters. One English farmer who had come 30 hours, (180 miles), wished to be confirmed. He had not seen an English Clergyman for many years. I found him well instructed in religion, but on inquiry discovered he had been living fifteen years with a coloured woman. He was anxious to be married to her, but she had not been baptized; and upon examination we found her not sufficiently instructed. The nearest Dutch Church to him is 24 hours distant (150 miles). What can we hope for or expect in such a state of things! He is during the next four months to instruct her whom he calls his wife more perfectly in the Christian faith, and afterwards to bring her to Capetown for more foil instruction, and for baptism: after which I have promised they shall be married and confirmed. At ten. o'clock confirmed five candidates, whom G. had prepared yesterday. There was a tolerably full Church. After service some members of our Church spoke to me, with tears in their eyes, about the comfort they had had in once more hearing their own Ministers, and their own Liturgy; and earnestly entreated me to send a Clergyman to them. I promised to do what I could towards providing them with a service once a month. We left Worcester at two o'clock, much gratified with our visit at the house of Mr. Truter. Our route to the Convict Station lay through a fine and fertile valley, where the farms are closer to each other than in any other part of the country that I have seen. We arrived at Musteed's Hocks about eight o'clock, Mr. Bain, the intelligent superintendent of the convicts and engineer of the roads, having ridden out with some other gentlemen to meet us. Had it not been for their courtesy, we should have had some difficulty in finding our way in the dark, through several very difficult fords of the Breede river. We slept the night at Mr. Bain's.
Friday, Dec. 15.--At six. o'clock this morning we started on horseback to ride up the new road, now called Mitchell's Pass; and to inspect the Convict Station. The establishment appears to be admirably conducted, and the discipline is excellent. I had the greater number of the convicts (of whom there are 250) assembled in the Chapel, and addressed them, their teacher interpreting for me. I had afterwards an interesting conversation with some English, convicts. The Pass is a very beautiful one, the road excellent and well engineered. I love to see these great works going on in the Colony, opening out, as they do, vast tracts of land, and developing the resources of the country. After breakfast we proceeded to Tulbagh, (three hours). This is a small but pretty village, with very few English. We had tiffin with Mr. Shand, the Dutch Minister. There is in this place the only congregation I know of that has avowedly separated from the Dutch Church. At three o'clock we started again, and arrived at eight o'clock at Maland's Varm. We had by the way a very pleasant bathe in the Waterfall river.
Saturday, Dec. 16.--Outspanned for breakfast near Wellington, a new village rising up near Bain's Kloof, and likely to be much increased, in consequence of the new road about to be made over the Pass. Having got careless as to our "pat-cop" as we approached home, we fared but badly, and finished our meal by a draught of not the clearest water in the world. We walked over the village--called upon the Dutch Minister, and an English gentleman, and found there were a few members of our Church here, and several more English, who, for want of the ministrations of their own Church, have joined the Dutch. About ten o'clock we proceeded on to the Paarl, which is distant from Wellington about an hour and a half. The Paarl is beautifully situated, and has a considerable population. The farms here are much smaller than usual, and the farmers in and around the village are chiefly employed in cultivating the vine. Indeed, this is one of the best vine-growing' parts of the Colony. The irregularity of the houses here, the fine oak-trees, and the beauty and fertility of the gardens, make this one of the most interesting villages in the Colony. There is, as usual, a want of water, though we found it of sufficient depth in the river not far distant from the village to enjoy a good swim. The Dutch Minister here is one of the most learned of their body. The London Missionary Society has a station and a chapel, and I believe a respectable congregation of the coloured classes. About one o'clock we proceeded on our route, after having made arrangements with Mr. Inglis, the teacher in the Government School, who held a service every Sunday, respecting the services for Tuesday, when I am to hold my Visitation here. Long before we arrived at Stellenboseh, we caught glimpses of the Table Mountain; and the eye could trace the range up to the point under which Protea lies. I felt thankful to have even this distant view of home, and regretted that my arrangements compelled me to retrace my steps even for a few days. The Civil Commissioner not being able to receive us at his house, in consequence of his wife's illness, we took up our quarters at the hotel. I had scarce opened my packet of letters before I saw my carriage drive past the door. In an instant I was again, by God's great mercy, permitted to see my dearest wife, from whom I had been separated nearly four months. We had the Civil Commissioner and several visitors in the evening. Stellenbosch is, like so many other places in this Colony, beautifully situated at the foot of the mountain; but in no place that I have seen are the streets so completely overshadowed by full grown oak-trees. In the summer this is a great luxury. In the winter it probably leads to some degree of damp.
Sunday, Dec. 17.--We held Divine service this morning, in the Dutch Church, after their service was concluded. There was a large congregation. We administered the Holy Communion to about six people. In the evening we held service again, when there was an equally good congregation. Something must be done for this place. There is no English service of any kind here. Besides the Dutch Church, there are two Rhenish Missionaries, with a large coloured congregation, and a Wesleyan Missionary. The population of the place is, I believe, little short of four thousand.
Monday, Dec. 18.--At ten o'clock this morning I held a Confirmation in the Dutch Church, when six were confirmed, whom Green had been preparing while here. At twelve o'clock, I held a meeting of the English in the Court-house, when a memorial was addressed to Government, praying for a grant of 100l. a-year towards the stipend of an English Clergyman, and grants of land for Church and parsonage. A subscription was also opened for a stipend for a Clergyman. There was an English Clergyman settled in this place a few years since, who, when he went away, left an English congregation of ninety, who have had no minister since. After returning one or two visits, and seeing my wife off, we started again in our wagon for the Paarl, where we arrived about seven o'clock.
Tuesday, Dec. 19--We held Divine service tin's morning, in the Government Schoolroom, at ten o'clock: there was a full congregation, chiefly of Dutch. There were six baptisms, and as many candidates for Confirmation, whom Mr. Inglis the teacher (formerly a catechist of the Colonial Church Society) had prepared. I both preached and addressed the candidates, who all seemed to feel deeply. Mr. Inglis, after service, applied to me to ordain him, offering to officiate as Minister at the Paarl without a stipend. At one o'clock, we again started at. route for Malmesbury, where we arrived at about half-past seven in the evening. The Civil Commissioner being unable to receive us himself into his house, committed us to the hospitality of a Dutch lady, who received us very courteously. There is not much in the external appearance of Malmesbury to interest one. The situation is bleak and dreary. There are a few trees, and a deficiency of water which prevents the inhabitants from, cultivating gardens to any extent. There is, however, a sulphureous warm spring, and a miserable public bath. The bath is, I believe, beneficial in rheumatic cases, but does not seem to be much used. There is a Dutch Church here, but no Missionary station. The Moravian Institution, however, at Green Kloof, is only a few hours distant. There are not many English here; but I find there are a good many about Saldanha and St. Helena Bays, who do not bear the most respectable character. We spent one evening in preparing some very interesting candidates for Baptism and Confirmation, and in conversing with several gentlemen who had been invited to meet us.
Wednesday, Dec. 20.--Walked about the village before breakfast. At nine o'clock went to the Government School, where a public examination was going on. The children answered very satisfactorily the questions put to them on religious subjects. At ten o'clock we held Divine service in the Dutch Church, and baptized three adults, who had been prepared by Mr. Inglis, and an infant. I confirmed one of the party whom I baptized. At about two o'clock we started again, and drove over a sandy road through a country well cultivated, and bearing large crops of wheat and oats, to the farm of Mr. Procter, an English gentleman. He, like every one else, complains sadly of the want of labourers; he says that he is offering three shillings a-day, together with two pounds of meat, two pounds of bread, and two bottles of wine during harvest time, and cannot get labourers. He says he could employ 100 additional Lands, if he could procure them. One man, whom he brought out a few years since as labourer without a shilling, has now realized 500l. Another who came out eleven years since, has now a well-stocked farm of 3,000 acres; but he too complains sadly of the want of labourers, and the difficulty of obtaining education for Ms children.
Thursday, Dec. 21.--Drove three hours to D'Urban, to breakfast. This is a small and uninteresting village, built upon a sandy soil, and without trees. It has nothing attractive about it. There is a Dutch Church, and also a resident Clergyman, whom we called upon. At half-past eleven we started again for Protea, at which place we arrived at a quarter past three. My dearest wife rode out to meet us. I was right glad to see Capetown and Table Mountain once more, as we approached our home.
And now let me record my deep gratitude to Almighty God for having brought me safely back to my home and family, after a journey of nearly 3,000 miles, through a strange land, and an absence of four months. I cannot be too thankful for the many mercies which have attended me throughout. I left home enfeebled and worn: I return in strength and health. I have been enabled to keep every engagement I have made, and in almost every case to the day. I have never been prevented from officiating on any occasion, either through sickness or accident. I have seen our people, though long and grievously neglected, still clinging to their mother Church, and ready to make great personal exertions and sacrifice to share in her ministrations. I have seen very remarkable effects resulting from the mere celebration of our holy services, especially Confirmation and Holy Communion; sufficient, were there no other evidence, to prove them to be of God, and apparently showing that God has been pleased to bless the first administration of the Church's Ordinances in this desolate land with a double measure of His gracious presence. I have seen with my own eyes the condition of the greater portion of the Diocese, and have been convinced that our day of grace as a Church has not passed away; but that God has still a great work for us to do in Southern Africa, if we have but the heart and the faith to enter upon it. I have been enabled, I trust, to pave the way for the erection of Churches, and the support of ministers, in almost all our towns and large villages. I have been able to confirm, altogether, in tin's Visitation, nearly 900 candidates, and I return home to meet a little band of faithful and devoted men, whom God has been pleased to raise up for the support of our feeble Church in this land. May God give me grace to be thankful for these things, and to be more earnest and devoted to His cause! May He supply all that is wanting in this land, for the promotion of the glory of His own great name--the extension of the kingdom of His dear Son--and the salvation of men's souls!
St. Helena, April 10th, Easter Tuesday, 1849.
You will be glad, I am sure, to receive my report of the state of religion in this island, together with some account of my .Visitation of it. I left Simons Town on the 22d of February, in H. M. steamer, Geyser, and had a most agreeable voyage, receiving every attention from Captain Brown and the officers of the ship. We had prayers morning and evening, at which the whole of the officers, and such of the men as could be spared, regularly attended. I need scarcely add that we had Divine service twice every Sunday. A more orderly and attentive congregation I have seldom seen.
We arrived here on the morning of the 7th of March. Captain Knipe, A. D. C. to His Excellency Sir Patrick Ross, the Governor, came on board immediately upon oar anchoring, to convey me to Plantation House, the rain preventing Sir P. Ross from coming to receive me. He had ordered a salute, which, however I declined. On the .Friday after my arrival, His Excellency appointed a Levée at the Castle, at which about fifty gentlemen of the island, civil and military, were present and introduced. From that time to the present I have been busily employed every day in visiting the parishioners--assisting the clergy in preparing candidates for Confirmation--in confirming, in consecrating the church and various churchyards, examination of schools, in preaching, and in business arising out of the Visitation--such as the repeal of local ordinances which interfered with the Bishop's office, in the conveyance of the churches and burial grounds (all of which were still in the hands of Government,) to the See--in remodelling, and placing upon a sounder and more extended footing, the Church Society,--and I trust also another very important ecclesiastical association, called the Benevolent Society.
The island itself is in many respects very interesting Plantation House reminds me much of many of our more favoured English country residences. The house is beautifully situated amidst woods, about three miles from the town, with a fine green valley in front sloping towards the sea, above which, however, it lies full 2,000 feet. The ride to Sandy Bay is striking, but the view of the Bay itself singularly beautiful and remarkable. I shall not attempt a description of it, but it is unique. I have of course visited Longwood and Napoleon's grave, but I shall not weary you with an account of them, as there is nothing striking about either. We use the billiard room in the new house, built for him, as a Chapel, and there is an excellent congregation there. The situation of James's Town is picturesque, jammed up in a narrow valley, between huge barren mountains, which seem as if they would overwhelm it. The Church, though not by any means perfect in point of architecture, is nevertheless a pleasing building, with a neat, well-proportioned tower and spire, and is in excellent order. It faces the sea, and is the most striking object as you approach the anchorage. The country Church is an inferior building, and not in good repair; but the inhabitants have just determined upon erecting a new building, for which Mr. Perry has been kind enough to furnish plans. The cost is to be 2,500l., and the site is one of the most lovely I have seen, commanding most glorious view of the mighty ocean, with a foreground of wood and broken mountain scenery, which here and there intersect the sea-views, and cause a most pleasing variety.
There are four clergymen now belonging to the island:--Mr. Kempthorne, the senior Colonial Chaplain, whom I have appointed Commissary, Rural Dean, and Surrogate; Mr. Helps, Military Chaplain; and Mr. Bousfield, whom I sent out as Assistant Chaplain. Mr. Helps is absent on leave in England. Mr. K. and Mr. B. are both excellent and devoted men, and labouring assiduously in their sacred calling. The fourth is Mr. Frey, whom I had much satisfaction in ordaining, during my Visitation, to the holy office of Deacon, being strongly recommended to me by the clergy and several of the laity. He was formerly a German Missionary in India, which country he left several years ago in impaired health. He is now master of the country Government school. He will strictly confine himself to 'the duties which properly belong to the Diaconate, continuing in his office of teacher, and devoting his days, after, two o'clock, to visiting the poor, many of whom, especially of those who were slaves, are very ignorant, and have been recently led into schism by a person who came to this island a short time since, and began by exhorting people to go to Church, but, as soon as he had ingratiated himself with some simple people, avowed himself a strenuous advocate of the Anabaptist heresy. The island still greatly needs another Clergyman, who should devote much of his time to visiting the poor from house to house. The rugged and mountainous nature of the country, coupled with the very great heat of the climate, render it impossible for a Clergyman to do as much parochial work hero as in. England. Could I but see my way clearly to the appointment of another Clergyman, I should leave this island with great comfort, feeling assured that, notwithstanding division has, for the first time during a period of 150 years, been introduced into the community, God's good work would prosper under the faithful ministry of his servants. Indeed, good has already been brought out of evil; for many of those who until now have rested in the faith which they have received without inquiry, have been led to examine into the foundation upon which it rests, and to hold, with a firmer grasp and a clearer conviction, truths which until now they had held only implicitly. Both the clergy and myself, also, have felt constrained to speak more plainly upon Church subjects and principles than we otherwise might have done, and the result has been that no inconsiderable number have become more devoted, loving, obedient children of their mother Church than they otherwise might have been.
I should add that, in addition to the country Church, small Chapels, capable of holding from one hundred to two hundred souls, are greatly needed at Sandy Bay, Longwood, and the upper part of James's Town, at each of which places there are excellent congregations. The people, of this island are far too poor to undertake these works at present, having the country Church to build. Unless, therefore, they are greatly aided by the mother Church, they must, I fear, remain without these, blessings for many years to come.
The state of education in the island is not all that could be wished, chiefly through the incompetency of several of the teachers. There are eight schools. Government and the Benevolent Society both contribute liberally to this good work. I should be very thankful if I could invite one or two teachers from our Training Colleges, but at present I fear very little can be done.
You are aware that this is a great depot for Africans captured from slavers. About 3,000 of these poor creatures are landed on this island every year. Of these nearly one-half suffer in health from the hardships they endure from their inhuman tyrants; and about, one-fourth are very heavily afflicted. I accompanied his Excellency; few days ago in a visit to their village or establishment in Rupert's Valley. If anything were needed to fill the soul with burning indignation against that master work of Satan, the Slave-trade, it would be a visit to this institution. There were less than 600 poor souls in it at the period of my visit; of these more than 300 were in hospital; some afflicted with dreadful ophthalmia; others with severe rheumatism; others with dysentery; the number of deaths in the week being twenty-one. I think I have seldom beheld a more deplorable spectacle.
I was pained to find that no effort is made to instruct these poor things during the time they are in the island; and the more so, because the Superintendent informed me that they show a great aptitude for instruction, and have a strong desire for it. The lack of employment, too, for their minds has a bad effect upon their health and spirits; so that when sickness overtakes them, they sink at once into a settled melancholy; and some commit suicide, partly from lowness of spirits, partly because, poor souls, they imagine that after death they will return to their much loved home and fatherland. The least thought must convince any one that the healthy exercise of the mind would be of great service to them in every way; and it is sad to think that our Government should spend 10,0001. a-year on this Institution, and between 300,000;. and 400.000l. in support of the squadron, and yet not allow the trifling sum which would be needful to supply them with a teacher. Mr. Prey, whom I have just ordained, did at one time undertake the work, and with some success, but Government would not sanction the appropriation of a stipend.
A day or two after I had visited Rupert's Valley, a slave ship was brought in, captured by one of our cruisers. She was a schooner of about 100 tons, and 560 slaves on board. I went to see them, that I might more fully realize their condition. The cargo was a particularly healthy one, the number of deaths being only about one a-day. Two were lying dead upon the deck, and one had the day before jumped overboard. Everything was done by the officers and crew in charge to keep the ship clean; but you can conceive better than I can describe what the condition of such a mass of human beings must be in so small a space. The deck was entirely covered with them. They had a worn look, and wasted appearance, and were moved into the boats like bales of goods, apparently without any will of their own. I crept down between decks to the place where they are usually stowed away. It might be between three and four feet high, and the atmosphere, was most offensive, although not occupied by one-third of the usual number. The condition, however, of a slave ship has been too often described to make it necessary for me to enlarge upon it. I shall only say, I never beheld a more piteous sight--never looked upon a more affecting scene--never before felt, so powerful a call to be a Missionary. I did not quit that ship without having resolved more firmly than ever that I would, with the grace and help of God, commence as speedily as possible direct Mission work in Southern Africa, and that I would never cease entreating of the mother Church the needful supply of men and means, that the reproach may be wiped off which, alas! still attaches to us, of being almost the only body of Christians in this great Diocese which is not engaged in the work of the conversion of the Heathen.
I have only now to add, that I have been during the live weeks that I have been here, the guest of the Governor, who has been to mo most kind and hospitable, and who, with his excellent family, takes a deep interest in the Spiritual as well as the moral and social condition of the island under his government. I have held two Confirmations; at the first of which upwards of 100 communicants presented themselves, and at the latter we had between 300 and 400, altogether nearly 500,--that is, about a tenth of the whole population of the island. I have also consecrated the Church at James's Town, together with the five burial-grounds in the island; held a Visitation, with a special view to the reformation of some points in which the Church was defective, and the restoration of Church discipline; and summoned a public meeting of the inhabitants, with a view to interest them more generally in the work of the Church through means of the Church Society. The meeting, at which his Excellency the Governor presided was well attended, and will, I trust, lead to a larger measure of support towards the several objects which the Society embraces;--the maintenance of the Ministry--the erection of Churches--Missions, avid a fund for Bibles, Prayer-books, and other religious works approved by the Bishop, and the foundation of a scholarship or scholarships, in connexion with our Collegiate School at the Cape. Believe me ever,
Yours very faithfully,
I HAD an affecting parting from many at St. Helena. The circumstances of the island, together with its being a first Visitation, compelled me to speak upon subjects I would gladly have been silent on: I mean, the nature and constitution of the Church--the office and authority of a Bishop in the Church of God--the succession of the Ministry--schism, &c. I do not mean that these were exclusive subjects, (God forbid,) but I was compelled to speak out on these points more plainly than I had ever done before, and I really believe much to the furtherance of Christ's cause. The people there are certainly prepared to take a deep interest in religious matters, and some good has, I trust, been done. They followed me in crowds, and expressed much affection. I was to have embarked on Sunday night after Church, instead of returning to Plantation House in the country, but several of the laity expressed a hope that I would not leave them in the dark, but let them accompany me to the shore; so I waited till Monday morning, and then had a large attendance of authorities, &c. I shall never forget the kindness of the Governor and his excellent family . they received me as a brother.
The Clergy also accompanied the Bishop on board the Geyser, and presented him with the following address:--
"MY LORD,--We, the Clergy of St. Helena, beg permission, at your Lordship's departure, to offer our farewell tribute of most sincere veneration and attachment. More than six years have now elapsed since the necessity of Episcopal superintendence over the Church in this Colony was officially represented by a memorial transmitted through her Majesty's Government. That necessity has now been supplied in the person of your Lordship; and while reviewing the firmness and delicacy with which the high and sacred functions of a Bishop have been introduced amongst a people to whom they were before unknown, we cannot but most heartily record our gratitude to the great Head of the Church, for directing the choice of our rulers to one endowed with such qualities of mind and heart--qualities which lend a peculiar grace to every act of authority, and render obedience on our part only a privilege. Our gratitude for the many marks of your Lordship's personal kindness and regard will be best evinced by following up, with our flock, that vigour and earnestness in the service of our common Lord, which has been so singularly exemplified throughout the whole period of your Lordship's Visitation. We heartily pray that the Almighty Giver of all good things may grant to your Lordship length of days and every good gift for the continued exercise of your high office; and with all affectionate reverence we would say, Father, Farewell!"